General Supercharger Thread

Do you have a recommendation of who to use for a tune? I want someone who knows what they are doing. I want the longevity of the Tundra. Not a lemon.

 

@JustDSM OTT https://overlandtailor.com/

 

I am new to the forum world. What does OTT mean?

 

Sorry: https://overlandtailor.com/

 

^^^^ WHAT HE SAID!!!

 

A good tune goes a long way, @snivilous does tuning also. @JustDSM and @snivilous are top contributors and tons of help!
It's not too common to have rod/ring/wrist pin/valve failures on these engines but it does happen. Not only to the Forced Induction engines but to the N/A crowd too.

 

I was randomly thinking about this earlier, and a way to compare the two. And I hope this doesn't disrespect Sniv or OTT at all! But it made me chuckle a little when it came to mind.

OTT is like Dr. Pepper. It's a premium, more expensive product with some proprietary things going on.
Sniv is like Dr. Thunder. All the stuff that makes DP great, minus a few small things you may not notice, but at a lower cost

Both great choices! I wouldn't turn away either if a cup was handed to me. And hard pressed to taste the difference

 

I don’t have use for it due to my geographical location, but that’s pretty cool. I’d be curious to find out more about how that one gets set up. I have to assume it just modulates the vacuum going to the existing bypass valve diaphragm to control boost?

 

Hahahaha

I'll avoid adding my own comparisons, I'm not a tuner, just here to help

 

I dig it. Being from Texas, I love Dr Pepper.

 

Average sniv speed shop customer?

 

Damn...you got me. Needs more facial hair though. Haha

 

Looks like that's how it works, instead of replacing the bypass with an electric one like the smoothboost. be nice if they had some technical details instead of a bunch of marketing BS about their algorithms and how great it is

 

Tried to get a quick vid at 80 and my rpms

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CA3c5D7Yqay3OU0OvuJ1ntVKGnMgcK27/view?usp=drivesdk


It wont let me upload a vid no matter hows fast it is

 

I don't understand someone smarter than me explain how that rpm is possible at 80mph with 5.29s

 

I don’t have 5.29s yet but it looks close according to this calculator. I will say, 80 Indicated on 35s is probably more like 87 in reality by GPS isn’t it?

 

Yea you have to put in stock tire size which is what the dash thinks. Actual tire size doesn't matter in this case since the speedo isn't referencing actual size.

 

Interesting.

 

That's what I'm saying. Though maybe it's just tolerance stack up between the tach and speedo. I would expect every truck to read identical, but obviously not (my truck reads right around 2650 at 80mph indicated). But sub 2500rpm just seems exceptionally low.

 

Maybe @NatesNightMare has a speedo correction device and doesn’t know it if he is not the original owner?

 

Haha

 

Maybe he's running 44s

 

Nope my speedo is on

 

Ive checked my speedo and it reads correct

 

I ran my speed against the local radar. It seems to be reading about 5-6mph above what is on my speedometer running 35's as I don't have any correction for it. Hpt only corrects transmission rpm and not the speedometer. So I could probably drop 150-250 off my rpm for the corresponding speed.

 

Did you check it against a GPS app like Waze or google maps? It would make sense for your RPMs if it is correct, but if it is correct then you must have a speedo calibration device buried in your dash like the hypertech or rough country one. Are you the original owner? Without a calibrator, on true 35s your speed should be off by 8-10%, and if it’s not then your speedo was off by that much from the factory which is pretty bad.

 

Data point: My 33's are within 1mph of the stock speedometer, no calibration.

Apparently I confused towing vs cruising revs. These RPMs were in 6th with a locked TC (source: https://www.tundras.com/threads/anyone-ever-re-geared-a-stock-truck.149308/page-2#post-3820053).

"Confirmed this afternoon, 5.29s on 33.4":

6th gear
2100rpm @70mph
2200rpm @75mph
I won't confirm nor deny the 100rpm/5mph is accurate throughout 6th gear."

I know I haven't driven the truck since Jan 16th, but I am sitting here surprised at my own data points. I would have bet a dollar my RPM were higher, but I vividly remember capturing these data points to support the discussion in the referenced thread.

 

Was it this thread where it was mentioned the trans valve body was heavy? FedEx tracking says it is 16.3 lbs. which doesn't seem right.

 

It'll feel heavy when you're bench pressing that bitch with one arm and squanch falling in your face trying to line up one bolt to hopefully some year start threading in while the check ball and springs are also falling out.

 

I remember that also. I think it was in their video.