Crackhead resurrection

My shifter is really floppy at this point, I'm not sure if it's a tension pin issue, or if my ear is on the outs. When I had it in for alignment after lifting, the tech mentioned it. "Our shop truck had it happen already, looks like yours is not far off..." so I told him I was aware.

someone needs to CAD up a part someone can machine off a few dozen pieces of that beefs up the area where the split normally happens. It would make a great 'problem solver' part that would actually sell pretty well. $$ opportunity for someone with CAD skills and a machine stuff.

 

You are able to drive while it’s broken. Just unbolt and remove the top and bottom covers… and Just need a leather glove so you can rotate the mechanism by hand, to protect your skin during the park to drive rotation.

until someone machines a part, I took my ss bbq spatula and cut a 1/16 x 3 inch metal plate and bent it in a c shape with jb weld to reinforce the replacement.

 

Hey Noah, just making it this far (page 45) today in your resurrection thread for the first time (I'm late to the party!) I've already poached a ton of links and videos... and learned a bunch of things. This top video in particular answered a question ive had, well shit, almost since the day I bought my jalopy back in 21. Thanks man. What a journey you had/still are having? So awesome you got a new frame!, fkn drooling over that hahaha. Nice job, way to persevere through all that shit, and put in all that hard work.

 

I wonder if @FiatRunner would find that one interesting...

 

Oh damn those are super helpful. I dunno how I missed those the first time. I just watched both videos. And now I'm wondering if that rod is what's making the THUNK every time I disengage 4WD.

 

Yeah so that video showed the actual positions of the TC shaft, mainly starting ALL the way in is 2WD, or 2HI. Also I know what to use on it now (simple but sometimes you just don't think of it) the adjustable wrench to move it through the gears/stations.
That 2nd video also shows how installing the gear looks in relation to the shaft teeth, and how to twist it around for easy access. Just some real great visuals and tips.

 

Well, we've had some snow so I have used the 4x4 a bit recently. One thing I know that I was doing that made it CLUNK was going to fast (even though they tell you, like what, 30-40mph?). Hitting it just as I started to move out of my driveway was whisper quiet. And all other times I'm eng/dis eng at below 20mph and its buttery smooth. But you are talking about something different I think, aren't you. Like it doesn't feel like the front diff is shaking.

 

Totally agree.

I was up under my truck two days ago looking around to take a pic for someone, and looked at my actuator vent hose. End of it is totally flared out, and rotten. Definitely needs replacement. It looked to have some kind of crazy spiral cable wrap you normally see used for wiring. I was hoping it would just be a straight-up J-shaped hose, but .... nope.

 

I can be doing any speed, if I'm coasting and I turn off 4HI, you can physically hear things disengage with a THUNK. If I'm accelerating remotely, no THUNK. It almost feels like running over a water hose laid across the street when someone has the water on. I've been in 4LO all of twice, never needed it, and I don't recall if it does it there too. But I've never been able to figure out wtf/why I get that THUNK, however I've read dozens of other people report the same.

 

Just cut an inch off and send it shifty

 

I did But I think 2025 is gonna be the year I replace all the hoses in the truck with something more stout and not 20yr old.

 

OK, thats the same I was hearing/feeling, except maybe like a fire hose lol. well put.
Or maybe like slipping on ice, then hitting dry pavement... but then you wouldn't know anything about that now would you

EDIT: aka you get no ice where you live

 

I didn't want to say firehose b/d it's too big, but yeah, somewhere between a water hose at pressure and a firehose. It's substantial, like running over a water bottle, or maybe a 1" piece of PVC.

 

I was so bent out of shape when this rig was on the selling block. Stoked it’s still in the family. Never sell.

 

Almost 3years to the day later I read this... and it made me smile! That had to have felt great

 

Anyone that’s had this issue feel free to pm me with photos, I can look into designing a better part. From my research looks like the part has two common failure points.

 

Super interesting. Adding those videos to the 4WD thread for sure!!

I got really ballsy the other day when we (finally!!) got some snow. I was doing about 55mph with cruise control on, and the road was getting more and more snowy, so I decided to engage 4HI. The paper on the visor says you can do it at up to 60 mph, and sure enough, buttery smooth. Even at 55. Disengaged it with cruise control on, and super smooth.

Then I decided to show my dad who was in the truck the next day, because he didn’t believe me that you could shift in/out of 4WD at 50+. It shifted in super smooth, but when I shifted it out I was must have been coasting because there was the loudest, most painful WHAM when it disengaged. It was loud and you could feel it in the seats. Oof.

I think the key is having “positive” loading on the drivetrain when shifting. Or at least that seems to be the case for Shifty and I.

 

I concur, much smoother under load than in deceleration. In fact so much so, that I've made it a point to be ever so lightly on the pedal when engaging or disengaging.
Quite the dice roller aren't you... 55!

 

It took some time but I made it to page 50 today. I still haven't read if there was a solution/conclusion to the P0125.
SO DON'T SPOIL IT FOR ME!

 

This ended up being my issue, and the issue seems to be rampant. https://www.tundras.com/threads/column-shifter-becoming-sloppy.148675/

 

⏚ a ground point ⏚
@Tundra2 What ground point was it?
on pg 70

 

Crackie's speedo has been out for a good while. He's been driving fine so I haven't worried too much about it. Live Data from my scan tool shows vehicle speed No. 1 has NO data. Vehicle speed No. 2 has data. WHYDTYFGT Link
Sensor Location per the FSM. (Output Shaft)

__________________________________________________________________________________________________



__________________________________________________________________________________________________
Here's diagnostic info from the FSM.



I will be looking at this for diagnostics soon, hopefully today

 

@FiatRunner I recorded this just for you bud, this shows the whole process I use with the app, and extra features. I'm sure there's more I can do with it, but neither of my vehicles have tpms or any other fancy features.

I don't think I have a wiring issue because anytime I hit 4th gear, the output from the sensor drops to zero. Even though I have data for both speed sensors, I had no speedometer movement. Interesting. I hope it's not my instrument cluster.

Still don't understand why it drops out in 4th.

https://youtu.be/LCCnCo6IFQs?si=acXjEsHDPVMLkncT

 

Thank you! Definitely going to get one of those once I’ve got some spare cash. I’ve been hesitant to buy one of the ones I see on tiktok. That one looks super good though.

 

Not a problem bro! I'm always here to help if I've got the time, my little guys keep me pretty busy.

I have LOVED this scan tool, if it's still the same now as it was then... they give you one free code to use for any manufacturer of vehicles that's good for 100 years. Every other "decoder" you have to buy for $20 or so and its good for a year.

I obviously paired that with their toyota code since that's all I ever plan on buying

You can scan any vehicle for basic codes just like autozone or O'Reillys will, but the decoder gives you pinpointing. I've had dodge codes, nissan, and cheby. The decoder ones are way more accurate but you have to pay for them. Worth the $20 per code if you're an owner to me

 

Oooop, mines actually a hypertough.


I've had this thing awhile....

 

The longer I have crackie, the more I learn about him. Look at these pictures of the back glass.

I knew the "Sign America" advertisement was there, and they're still in business which I think is cool, but NOW there's a fuckin Ghost Skull on the drivers side! This is wild, and I love it!



This one on the passengers side is sorta head shaped, but I can't make positive confirmation.



https://youtu.be/YW2hoMFqecU?si=3yE1R_0aDwdCiCep&t=3m39s

 

You'd be surprised at how well a little rubbing compound will bring that glass back to looking like that stuff was never there.

 

In the perfect lighting I can see "Grand Ledge" on my door. but none of the rest of it.
It's a town 55mi away. Fun Easter egg

 

I was going to say some 0000 ultrafine brass wool and window cleaner. It'll typically do the job. I use it on all my windows once or twice a year to get them clean-clean, get that residual buildup and filth off.

Previous owner of my shell had SIG/Legion sticker bottom-center of the back glass. I don't like stickers on my back glass usually, unless they're in the lower corners, so best believe it got shaved off, and I bronze wool'd the glass. But I should probably compound the glass also, to your point.