2015 SR5 Radio died with a POP!

2015 SR5 Non-JBL system

I was just sitting there listening to the radio when there was a loud POP! and it went dark and silent. Pop is similar to the amp turn on thump when you install an aftermarket amp.

I checked the two under dash 7.5A fuses. PANEL and ACC. Both are good.
I checked the two under hood fuses. 20A RAD NO 1, and 30A AMP. Both are good.

Anything else I should check? If something did blow, do you think it's more likely the radio or the amp? I think radio, because it's dark too, not just no sound.

 

I’d just check each one at a time, I remember whenever I mess with fuses they rarely seem to make sense what each one powers on my Tundra. Someone else will likely know the specifics to check though.

 

I really don't think it's a fuse issue though. What reason would it have to blow while I'm not modifying anything or doing anything unusual. It was a long shot that it would be something as simple as a fuse.

 

I have a JBL amp and headunit for sale if you find out yours is fried.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2019-oem-jbl-amp-and-headunit.156595/

 

Do you have any idea if the JBL headunit would work with the Non-JBL amp? They look very similar, mine just doesn't have the GPS stuff.

 

No, they are wired and function differently..

If you know wiring diagrams, you can find them here..
Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum

Make sure you check the LH-IG fuse, although if it was blown more stuff wouldn't work.
You'll find it in the underdash fuse box.





I'd get your multimeter out and start testing the radio plugs for current.
There are only 2 wires to test, each in its own connector on the back of the radio.

The battery RADIO feed is the violet wire pin #4 of the J137 connector



The IG (key on) wire is the pink wire in pin 1 of the J139 connector



I doubt it is an issue with the amp..
But the wires to test at the amp are both in the J144 connector under the passenger seat.

ACC (key on) wire would be the sky blue wire in pin 3
The battery AMP wire would be the red wire in pin 4




It would be good to at least test the radio wires so you'll know it getting power.
Then you'll know the radio is shot.
Several options for aftermarket radios, although you'd need to bypass the OEM amp to install one.
Perhaps you can find someone with an OEM replacement radio.

Good luck..

 

would a new jbl amp and head unit be plug and play for him?

 

From my research, it seems like it's not. The harness between the headunit and amp is different. That's too bad.

 

Mmm, bummer, good luck!

 

No, the truck wiring is different.

For example;
On the JBL, all speakers are powered by the underseat OEM amp.

CTR is center dash, as well as the sub output to the woofer.


On the non-JBL, the dash, center, and rear door tweeters (crewmax) are powered by the HU (radio).
The doors are powered by the OEM amp.

 

UPDATE with great news! Everything pointed to the headunit being fried. Luckily I found one on FB Marketplace from a guy 5 miles down the road. It's the slightly updated 2018 version of mine, non JBL. Best part was that he only charged me $50! Steal of a deal. 30 mins later and I'm back in business!

Thanks all for the troubleshooting help. Especially 1lowlife for all the schematics. Now I know who to ask here for electronics issues on our trucks.