What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Time for new PSAC valve?

 

Don't know why I'm not translating that acronym, but if you are talking about the valve that boosts the idle to assist power steering at low rpm, what I did wouldn't tell me if it was functioning, Only that there wasn't a vacuum leak in that line off the manifold.
While I was doing that I could have got in the cab and turned the wheel to see if I got a bump in idle.... didn't do that. I will say this, when its cold out like maybe 15-20deg or lower the steering boost is pretty low. As soon as it gets 30 or above it's much easier.

 

My gf took pics of me from when I did my knock sensor harness back in 18. It was one of my first posts on the forum.

 

PSAC valve = power steering air control valve.

That little two-vacuum-line valve above the power steering pump. If the engine is running and you have the wheels at full-lock, when you pinch those lines, your idle is supposed to drop, I think? I always forget, I feel like the valve is normally closed, but when the power steering is engaged/at-pressure, the pressure of the fluid pushes the valve open, which allows extra vacuum between the intake tube and intake manifold (which is where those two vacuum lines are plumbed)

Granted, your test may not have covered that point while looking at Bluedriver output. If the engine wasn't both running, and the wheels cocked full tilt when you pinched the vacuum hoses, idle shouldn't do anything. The turning of the wheels full-tilt is key to performing the test. You need the power steering system to be pressurized in order for things to work as expected.

 

Damn breau. Never seen you looking so ... vulnerable ... before.

 

Saw a post earlier in the month that Billy at Brute Force Fab had some bumpers in the shelf ready to ship. Definitely not a need, but went ahead a scored one. Full hoop option is what I settled on, I kinda dig it! Bumper made it from NorCal all the way to the Middle of Nowhere Missouri. Picked it up today from the freight house. Don’t know how long it’s gonna sit, but looking forward to getting on the truck whenever that is. Hopefully I can find a powder coat color match to mate up nice with the Phantom Gray Pearl, if not good old matte black is always on standby. Hope everyone is doing well, have an awesome weekend.

 

Correct. I was only looking for a possible vac leak in that valve/or line that could be causing my idle to hover around 890-900rpm. Where I clamped it just took it completely out of the picture regardless of pressure/or demand on it, same on the vac assist for the brakes

 

Sweet bumper. Looks heavy AF! Go satin, not matte.

 

https://youtu.be/NJE4RF4XbKE?si=w2B-fFX7Zi1NZiIy

if i get any help changing that heater pipe o-ring i’ll try to get a pic.

the pixelation of your shoes on the bottom pic is pretty impressive. Like OG nintendo.

 

Celebrating 16 years of sobriety today by relaxing a bit......current status:

 

Congratulations!

 

CONGRATS dude!

 

That guy fucks.

 

Just means 16 years of no late night fat ladies at the bar...sigh...I miss those days.

Also installed the Fr33lance door stop reinforcements and a new door check in the back drivers door.

Driveshaft in. Not eto self, next time, if solo again, do it in 2 pieces, vs all in one long ass unit.

 

Don't stop now!

 

Never....stop.....

Threw on new side mirrors. Decided to Raptor line the caps and see how they look, before I swap my color matched ones over.

Anyone have the part numbers for these front door thingies that I broke. Don't yell at me...too tired to search. Besides, SHIFTY, you probably know them by heart....

Fine....found em: 67603A on the left and 07066 on the right....although there are a few numbers for the ones on the left and I otrdered a 50 pack from Amazon...should work.

 

Quitters always win.

 

https://x.com/jbanklestankle1/status/1902499972265709857?s=46

 

Let us know how you like the Radflo's and how they compare to what you have used in the past. Thanks!

 

What size ko2 do you need?

I’m about 2 weeks away from new ko3s.

you can get two of my takeoffs 285/70/17 e-rated - no patches or plugs but they have about 50k on them. Still in solid shape imo

 

Thanks. Think I’m gonna ride these out till ko3s as well.

 

Have found a little 2 foot step ladder helps even for swapping battery up front!

 

I used a 5gal NAPA bucket... slightly sketchy but functional.

TODAY: Oil change completed on the Tundra 296.5K, kinda snotty in there , that should change when we move and actually have to drive a bit to get things.
Next change I plan on SeaFoaming her a few hundy before the change and maybe clean it out a bit.

Side Bar, replaced the rear wiper blade rubber on the FeRD Edge with the rubber from an old wiper that was decent.
Saved 10-15 bucks, winning. It's pretty easy to do that instead of all new blades (for the old style ones with the metal rods).

 

I removed the Summit Racing step bars that came on the truck. Looks so much better already..

Before


After



Edit: why do my pics look so blown out after I copy and paste them?

 

Its what I almost did to my FGT today...

Discovered after checking OManual, that the Remote Lock/Unlock "Beep" can be switched OFF [i prefer to not BROADCAST my arrivals/departures].
But after following the described procedure a few times, No Luck. Had my hopes up.
Only a guess, but because the process is described only in a DC v. AC [AC instructions make no mention of it], appears its only as option for DC...?

*** Did Toyota make the option based on a 'Hard-wired' circuit of the DC, or is it just a difference in the Remote Control FOB? ***

"SWITCHING BEEP SOUND ON AND OFF
You can switch the beep on and off. (The
beep is on initially and after battery replacement.)
To switch the beep on and off:
With the driver’s door opened—
1. Insert the ignition key and remove it.
2. Within 5 seconds, insert the ignition
key again and turn it to the “ON” position.
3. After 10 seconds, push the same
“LOCK”, “UNLOCK” or “PANIC” switch
twice within 10 seconds.
Two beep sounds inform you that the
program has been switched on or off.
If this procedure is not followed exactly,
the beep will not operate as expected.
Check the beep ON/OFF operation by
pushing the transmitter switch after you
finish this procedure. If the beep does not
operate as expected, repeat this procedure
from step 1."

 

Not good at taking pics while doing work.

Driver Front: Pulled needle bearing and installed ECGS bushing. Installed new axle seal and fresh reman OEM axle. Installed Radflo 2.5 coilover and broke bumpstop bolt. Will drill and tap next week - 45 min
Passenger Front: Installed axle seal and fresh reman OEM axle. Installed Radflo 2.5 coilover and Durobump - 30 min
Drivers Rear: Installed Archive MD leaf pack, u-bolt flip kit with #3 bumpstops and Radflo 2.5 shock - 30 min
Passenger Rear: Installed Archive MD leaf pack, u-bolt flip kit with #3 bumpstops and Radflo 2.5 shock - 2.5hrs

Front bushing and sleeve seized. Ended up having to chop the leaf pack and work on it for a while, trying to not break the hanger. Finally got it out. Nice big burr had the sleeve hanging up. What a pain in the ass.....but...it is what it is. Took a few breaks here and there to cerakote and reassemble some tools. Lighting sucks, one set is grey and the other set dark green.

I still need to add some preload to the front tomorrow. Wanted to get a few miles on her. will also re-torque all the bolts. I have to say, with the new coilovers, new Fulltorque driveshaft, needle bearing swap out and AT drain/fill......she drives and shift so smooth. I did pull the front mud flaps because...rub a dub dub. I'll do a bit of trimming tomorrow. I'm at 21" front and 23" rear. Eric said the rears should settle just a bit. I don't mind a little rake, as I tow as well.

If anyone is in the VA area, the Icons are free. Fronts will need a rebuild. Rear shocks are fine and I have a spare as well. The aftermarket CVs are trash. Old wheels and tires will be cleaned up and put for sale soon.

 

Did you post about your awning yet? I don't recall so sorry if you did. Tell me about it

 

She's definitely doing it wrong... gotta arch that back at the bottom of that pose

 

Side profile with the 285/75s. I am really liking this tire size, lost a little pep in its step but that’s ok it was never a race car. Time to get the the big hammer out

 

Those springs are pretty stout, I think mine only settled maybe a 1/4” to 1/2” max. I was at 24” after install, will measure tomorrow out of curiosity. You’re going to love them. Had about 250lbs in the bed the other day plus me and my buddy were sitting on the tailgate and it barely budged.

Update: 23.5” hub to fender. 11.25” axle to frame