2004 DC Big Job - TB, Front End, Steering Rack, Everything Else. Seeking Opinions & Commentary!

Getting ready to do "the big job." Finally going to bite the bullet and do what I've been putting off for a looong time. Need to maximize caster on the driver side due to a collision a few years ago that bent my front sub-frame rearward forcing negative caster even with maximized alignment. Also gotta do timing belt, refresh everything else in the engine if possible. The truck will be torn down for at least a few weeks if not longer since this will take me a while, fully intending on not having it in driving-shape for a longish time. I've never done any timing belt/rad/fan/AC stuff before but am confident I can do the job, I just don't know what I don't know or what I'm missing.

• Timing Belt
• Front Suspension (currently have Monroe Quickstruts, need lift to counter heavy rake from HD rear leaf springs)
• UCA & LCA, both to maximize caster
• Steering Rack Replace (leaking)
• Radiator Replace
• Clean Injectors
• Gut the ABS parts/brake lines/etc like @whodatschrome did.
  • https://www.tundras.com/threads/tacoed-tundra-project.130491/page-7#post-3390345
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/tacoed-tundra-project.130491/page-8#post-3401152
• Replace all the rest that I can while I'm in there. Going for anything and everything I'll be able to reach while I have everything torn apart.

The below is the parts list I've compiled for now. Blanks are parts that I haven't figured out the part numbers for. I'm hoping this will be useful for all of the forum too.
Do you guys see anything I'm missing? Got anything wrong? Any advice on what I also might need to change? Like do I need to replace the AC Compressor or Power Steering Pump?

Updated parts list:

 

Everything will be coming from Rockauto, amayama, toyotapartsdeal, and 1stgenoffroad, no fleabay or scamazon.
Hit me with criticism too fellas

 

I’ll look through this more in depth later, but I wouldn’t replace the compressor or ps pump unless it’s necessary. Mine are both 25 years old with 314k on them. My ps pump has a whine, but that’s it. Still functions. But hey, it’s your money, not mine.

 

Have you had a good frame shop look at your damage?

 

I wouldn't replace my AC Compressor or Power Steering pump unless it was needed. I replaced the steering rack, and all the power steering lines on my truck last year, still using the original power steering pump, it still works.

 

I noticed what looked like the return line seeping while under mine on Wednesday. I cleaned it off and will monitor it. Since the return line isn't pressurized, I'm wondering if I could just replace the soft lines with bulk fuel line as the hard lines are not deteriorated. Might try that vs $ on a whole line.

 

Worth a shot. Replacing the lines on my truck was not fun...

 

I'll hold off on the PS Pump and AC Compressor then. This is helpful, thank you guys. I just don't want something to fail and have to tear it back down to get to it, but if these are hardy wear items I'm fine with holding off.

 

At the time of the collision with a curb (2 years ago) every single body shop I called in my vicinity said they only take insurance jobs won't take individual jobs, or they'll charge me a fee just to check it out and potentially an exorbitant cost to replace the frame. The diagnosis of the "bent sub-frame" came from a generic auto shop while replacing my LBJ and wheel bearing due to the collision, and there was nothing that shop could do about it.
I'm unsure if any "good frame shops" exist in Denver anymore, especially with today's consumer market of taking on debt and/or trading in a vehicle for the newest shiniest thing. So I decided f it I'll just buy special UCA and LCA that position their joints in a way that adds-in caster...no idea if that will work out though

 

You wouldn't happen to have the power steering lines part numbers handy, would you?

 

I used the Sunsong 3401254 lines from Rock Auto (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7653108&cc=1432861&pt=7320&jsn=1429). They worked fine for me.

 

I'm really impressed with your parts list. Tagging this thread for later. I'll need it when I do my timing belt.

 

@DarkMint just offhand I think you need to add throttle body gasket and intake plenum gasket. Looks like you have a fun job ahead...

 

Much appreciated, I'll add em. Oh yeah.. it's "the big one."

 

Frame repairs are very limited. Toyota does not allow the use of heat repair to the frames.

CRIB #161 - Collision Damage Repair Precautions: “Heat Repair For Body And Frame Components Is Prohibited.”

CRIB 193: "Frame Repair Precautions Sectioning of frames is not an approved repair procedure. Sectioning is defined as the partial replacement of components at locations other than an original seam or joint. When a frame is determined to be repairable by the replacement of individual components, installation should be at factory seams or joints and replicate original factory attachment methods with corrosion protection. Since all Toyota and Lexus frames are made from High Strength Steel (HSS); Toyota does not approve of any heating method to stress relieve HSS during the repair process. Overheating HSS degrades the integrity, durability, and corrosion resistance of a frame.

‘Cold straightening’, defined as pulling, pushing and hammering, are the only approved methods to stress relieve collision damage. If a frame cannot be restored to original contour and dimensions by cold straightening during the repair process, it should be replaced."

 

Your list shows powering steering pump but not the rack. You said yours was leaking. Did mine this past winter. Buy new. Do not buy a rebuilt unit. Not even a Toyota one. Maybe half are decent and the rest leak.

 

I didn't even know heat repair is a thing, but yeah makes sense that it would mess up the heat treat on the steel like with firearms or knives. I just need a slackjawed fella named Jimbo or Joebob to hook it up to a machine and cold-pull it ever so slightly to tweak a section. Since I cannot find one...it's UCA/LCA hacking to get the caster good.

 

Far as I know there are no more NIB Toyota racks being produced, hence my inclusion of the "FR33LANCE FAB" branded rebuilt steering rack. Not looking forward to that part of the job, reading testimony from the other 1st gen members on here who have done that replacement.

 

You can get transmission oil cooler line by the foot at any parts store -- looks just like black rubber fuel line but is rated for oil.

 

Personally, I'd hold off on rebuilding the starter. They rarely fail, and you're not really saving any labor by doing it with the rest of the items on your list. (Unlike say the water pump and timing belt: if you're doing the timing belt, you might as well do the water pump while you're in there because of the rate of failure and the duplicate labor.) An OEM Denso starter can realistically last the life of the vehicle.

 

I’m basically on my third starter at 279k miles. Had to replace the copper contacts at 115k and again at 277k. If you’re pulling the intake, worth the extra15 minutes to remove the starter, pop it open and replace the 2 copper contacts and plunger inside.

 

And wrap all the wiring harnesses with rodent tape.

There's so much shit I'd do if I had my intake off. I'd probably proactively replace the SAI pump, wrap the wires, change out my driver side knock sensor (if not both), test/potentially re-terminate the knock sensor wires, clean any grounds under there. I suspect I'd spend 3-4 hours longer than necessary doing nothing but just cleaning everything up, with the hole I didn't need to take it apart again for another 20 years.

 

No SAI for me (non-VVTI), getting that rodent tape for sure after seeing you recco it to so many folks, will swap out them knock sensors. Knock sensors: P/N 89615-52010 based on my VIN, gonna get two. Will also check out wiring condition...seen a lot of rodent-chewed wiring on other trucks. I'm good at turning a wrench but unfortunately a total baby when it comes to working with wiring/electronics, definitely a weak point.

Why the focus mainly on the driver-side knock sensor and not both by default? I'll likely replace both anyway just because I'll have the dang thing exposed but out of curiosity...

 

FYI, Denso makes the knock sensors and last I checked, buying direct from them costs at least 30% less than buying it in Toyota's box. You can lookup the part numbers at www.densoautoparts.com --- just make sure you buy from a legitimate vendor, not scAmazon/fleaBay/WallyMart/etc.

The only reason I'm mentioning replacing mine, and I'm focused on the driver's side, is because I've been throwing an occasional P0328 'knock sensor circuit high input' (driver's side). If you're not throwing any codes and the sensor tests out to spec per the FSM, I might not be so inclined to touch them.

I (knock on wood) haven't popped the code in the last 800 miles or so, not since temps warmed up outside. But in totality of ownership (6yrs plus a few months), I've had to clear the code to get out of limp-mode about 2 dozen times (since the first case back in Oct/2022). It happened so infrequently I I wasn't too concerned, but during this year's unusually low temps and snows, I think I popped the code 3x in one month. I notice I only pop the code in the 1st 2-3 minutes of driving, and if I keep the RPMs below 2,000 until the engine is mostly warmed up, no codes. It's super tough to track down, because it's a 2-cycle code, i.e. ECU has to detect high input on the circuit for two consecutive drives to pop the code. And I don't want to pop the lid on the engine to really start debugging, because I'll be too tempted to do other stuff with money I don't have right now considering it's an inconsequential issue. Granted, for all I know, it could be an adjacent sensor (cam position sensor, maybe?) causing the engine to ping once or twice, and it actually is knocking? I dunno, but I'm not hearing any semblance of knock, so I'm inclined to believe wiring/sensor issue.

I've run a snake cam up under my intake; no signs of rodent activity anywhere. Cold weather exacerbation of symptoms suggests to me either (A) wiring terminal issue, (B) connector for driver's side sensor is not fully seated (or clip broken), and when it's cold, or (C) the sensor itself is internally faulty internally related to heat/contraction.

But, given I only want to need to go in there once and be one with it, I'd probably replace (at least) the one sensor, consider re-crimping the leads and replacing the connector end, then re-wrapping the wires.

 

I believe there is a "rebuild" kit for the power steering pump. It looks like it's just a bunch of seals, but the part number is 04446-06030.


Also, there is a screen at the bottom of the PS reservoir that fills up with gunk over time. I purchased a new/used PS reservoir that only had like 40k miles on it, and a crazy amount of gunk came out of the screen. Pics HERE. I'd bet cleaning out that screen at the bottom would free up a lot of flow. I also solved my PS leaks by just replacing the hose clamps.

 

First of the parts rolled in. Starter rebuild kit from Advance Truck Parts called ATP Denso Starter Repair Kit 0.8-2Kw Toyota. SKU 777-606D. I had trouble finding an "official" rebuild kit on the Toyota site since it's not the most clear as to exactly what I'd have ordered, and certainly couldn't find one on Denso's website either.


@KNABORES does this look like the rebuild parts you've been using?

 

Similar parts, but I orders them ala cart from Toyota. Plunger, copper contacts with new bolts and the gasket.

 

I bought the plunger and contacts from a very old school alternator/starter repair shop and charged me $5 “because copper is so expensive these days.”

 

I have updated the list in the first post with parts I've added and the retailers I've purchased from. Also, including the parts list here in text and in alphabetical order so it's searchable in case it will help anyone else looking for part numbers.
Any hyperlinks in there are auto-linked due to the forum. I do not endorse buying your car parts from ScAmazon.


2nd Gen Beefy Tailgate Driver Clip → 69759-0C050 → Toyota Dealer
2nd Gen Beefy Tailgate Pass Clip → 69759-0C040 → Toyota Dealer
2nd Gen Beefy Tailgate Stabilizer Clip → 69749-34010 → Toyota Dealer
A/T Cooler Hose 2/5 → 90080-44065 - got 90445-17122 as alternative → Amayama
AC Compressor → Holding off on this one. →
Aisin Timing Belt Kit (WP, TB, TB idler subassembly 1 & 2) →

$183 Aisin TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

Aisin TKT-021 → RockAuto
Alternator Brush Replacement Kit → 27370-75060 → Amayama
Brake bleed → Prestone DOT3 - 32oz flush, 12oz incidental → RockAuto
Cam Seals (2) → 90311-38065 → Toyota Dealer
Coil Packs (8) →

$60 Denso 6731303 Ignition Coil , Gray

Denso 6731303 → RockAuto
Coolant Toyota 00272-SLLC2 (5) → 00272-SLLC2 → Toyota Dealer
Cooler Inlet Hose 1 (2) → 32941-34020 → Toyota Dealer
Cooler Inlet Pipe 1 → 90080-44038 → Amayama
Cooler Pipe → 32943-34010 → Amayama
Copper anti-seize for Solo LCA → Amzon → Amazon
Crank Front Seal → 90311-A0001 → Toyota Dealer
Crank Pulley Holder →

$70 Schley 64300 Lexus And Toyota Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool

Schley 64300 → Amazon
Crank Seal Puller → Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller → Amazon
Denso rebuilt alternator → Denso 210-1065 → not purchased
Denso rebuilt starter →

$148 Denso 280-0319 Denso First Time Fit® Starter Motor - 280-0319

Denso 280-0319 → not purchased
Distilled Water → 10 gallons → grocery store
ECGS Bushing Replacement → ECGS Bushing/Seal/Tools package → ECGS
Extended Sway Bar Links → SuspensionMaxx SMX-122270T → 1stgenoffroad
Fan Clutch → Aisin FCT-18 (FCT-021 discontinued) → RockAuto
Fan Clutch Bracket → 16371-0F010 (

$117 Aisin FBT-002 Fan Pulley Bracket - Compatible with Select Lexus GX470, LS400, LX470 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

Aisin FBT-002) → RockAuto
Fan Shroud → Not Needed →
Figure 8 Oil Filter Gasket → 15692-50020 → Toyota Dealer
Honda Rodent Tape → Honda Rodent Tape → Honda
Hydraulic Tensioner (twig n berries) → 13540-50030 (Incl in Aisin TKT-021) → RockAuto
Idler Pulley Plate (if bent) → 16659-50022 → Amayama
Intake Manifold Coolant Bypass Front & Rear (4) (https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak-bypass-pipe-o-ring.81275/#post-2055606) → 16341-50020 → Amayama
Intake Manifold Coolant Bypass Pipe O-Ring (https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak-bypass-pipe-o-ring.81275/#post-2055606) → 96761-24019 → Amayama
Intake Manifold Water Net O-Ring (https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak-bypass-pipe-o-ring.81275/#post-2055606) → 96761-35035 → Amayama
Intake Plenum/Manifold Gasket (2) → 17171-50020 → Amayama
Knock Sensors (2) → 89615-52010 → Toyota Dealer
LBJ Special Bolts (black) → Spiker(?)
Loctite 242 for No.1 Idler Pulley → Permatex Blue → RockAuto
Lower Ball Joint (Left) (04 DC) → 43340-39595 → Toyota Dealer
Lower Ball Joint (Right) (04 DC) → 43330-39825 → Toyota Dealer
Lower Radiator Hose Clamp (2) → 90466-41003 → Amayama
MAF cleaner → Johnsen's 4721 10oz → RockAuto
Oil Cooler Gasket → 90301-67004 → Amayama
Oil Cooler Relief Valve Assembly → 15695-50010 → Toyota Dealer
Oil Filler Gasket → 12196-50010 → Amayama
Power Steering Lines →

$160 SUNSONG 3401254 Power Steering Hose Assembly

SUNSONG 3401254 → RockAuto
Power Steering Pump Rebuild Kit → 04446-06030 → Toyota Dealer
Radiator → Denso 2210518 → RockAuto
Radiator Cap → 16401-72090 → Amayama
Radiator Hose (Lower) → 16572-0F011 → Toyota Dealer
Radiator Hose (Upper) → 16571-0F031 → Toyota Dealer
Re-Key 3 Barrel & 3 Keys set (04-06 DC) → 69005-0C040 → Toyota Dealer
Rubber-safe Lubricant → Dielectric Grease → owned
Serpentine Belt → Gates HD

$35 K060908HD FleetRunner Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt

K060908HD → RockAuto
Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley → 16604-0F010 (

$39 NSK 70SPPV0408DDUL Drive Belt Idler Pulley

NSK 70SPPV0408DDUL) → RockAuto
Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley & Bracket Assy. (Comes w Tensioner Pulley) →

$91 16620-0W101 Toyota Genuine V Ribbed Belt Tensioner Assembly

16620-0W101 → RockAuto
Shifter Column Plastic Keeper →

$11 Dorman 14797 Shifter Cable Bushing Compatible with Select Models

Dorman 14797 → Amazon
Spark Plug Gaskets (8) → 11193-50010 → Amayama
Spark Plugs (8) → NGK IFR6B-K → RockAuto
Special LCA's to adj caster → Solo Lower Control Arms → 1stgenoffroad
Special UCA's to adj caster → JBA Upper Control Arms → JBA
Stainless Brake Lines Front & Rear → What to purchase? Wheelers SS lines discont'd
Starter Brush Holder Assembly → 28140-54380 - ATP Denso Starter Repair Kit instead SKU 777-606D → Advance Truck Parts USA
Starter Magnetic Switch Plunger → 28235-58380 - ATP Denso Starter Repair Kit instead SKU 777-606D → Advance Truck Parts USA
Steering Rack → FR33LANCE FAB Steering Rack - rebuilt → FR33LANCE FAB - not yet purchased
Suspension Lift → Bilstein 5100 w/ 2887 springs → 1stgenoffroad
Thermostat →

$20 90916-03100 Thermostat

90916-03100 → Toyota Dealer
Thermostat Gasket O-Ring →

$15 16346-50010 , Engine Coolant Thermostat Gasket

16346-50010 → Toyota Dealer
Throttle Body Gasket → 22271-50042 → Amayama
Timing Belt Idler Pulleys (2) → ?? Maybe don't need these. I’m too ignorant to know.
Timing Belt Tensioner Idler Pulley "precoated" Bolt → 13556-50010 → Amayama
Toyota FIPG → 1282B - Got

$21 Toyota 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

Toyota 00295-00103 instead → Toyota Dealer
Upper Radiator Hose Clamp (2) → 90466-41005 → Amayama
Valve Cover Bolts w/ Washers (18) → 90080-10330 → Toyota Dealer
Valve Cover Gaskets → 11213-50031 & 11214-50011 → Toyota Dealer
Valvoline MaxLife ATF → Valvoline MaxLife ATF → Advance Auto Parts
Water Pump → (Incl in Aisin TKT-021) → RockAuto
Water Pump Gasket (no FIPG, rectangular part) → 16341-50020, the intake manifold bypass? May need FIPG instead. → Amayama
Water Pump O-Ring → 96761-35035 → Toyota Dealer