What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nope, it'll be that gasket at the housing or front of crossover. See the megathread, search for the phrase "coolant leak"

EDIT, here:

• Coolant leaks: Three common causes: One is the is the gasket behind the thermostat housing, another is the coolant crossover at the rear of the block, and last but not least, old radiators is another source. Here's a list of things to check if you're losing coolant. For repairing the leak behind the t-stat housing, check this out. For the coolant crossover tube issue, you'll likely find coolant at back of the block, near where the trans and engine meet, check this reply for video/fix. This post is for leaks at t-stat housing/inlet neck. This reply contains links to three other off-brand/odbball leak cases. For radiator leaks, this is one example of a tiny one - always replace with Denso brand radiator, and know different cab types use different sizes, careful where you order, scAmazon especially tends to deliver damaged products often (RockAuto has a spotless record with forum members). Proactive radiator replacement is wise. The transmission line routes through the bottom of the radiator ... go look up "pink milkshake", it happens in these trucks.

 

Why does your picture show three separate pieces? I get the one long one for the rear wheels and the shorter one for front wheel, what's the 3rd one for?

 

My truck has been sitting for 2 days ‘nose up’ i dont see how the coolant crossover could get the front of the valley juicy. Kinda suspecting the throttle body coolant line. Truck was a gallon low after 2500 miles.

how is this pipe attached at the front?


might also be the front crossover.

 

See 2nd link in my post above: https://www.tundras.com/threads/leaking-coolant.54959/

That's my #1 culprit. Am I right? Only feet-on-the-ground can say for sure.

 

But also, I think this is the 3rd or 4th link, note the o-ring on that crossover: https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak-on-radiator-return.147204/#post-3689993

 

front joint to the tstat is dry. Looks like my puddle starts under that heater pipe. Lemme get the intake tube off.

 

That o-ring may be your culprit? @jerryallday covers that here, which is also linked in my block of text: https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak-bypass-pipe-o-ring.81275/#post-2055606

With this video being the kicker:

https://youtu.be/6fx5hFQHUKI​

 

Nice! How were you able to get them for $800?

 

Soab. I’m betting thats the problem.

time to fire up the ‘while im in there’ parts cannon.

i’m less than 30k from the timing belt, i mean, i might as well if i’m digging in. do the crossovers, valvecovers, injectors, starter, sensors. Gimme a 90k ‘guarantee’. Sensors?

i was hoping it’d die, but running it out of coolant seems like hunting a feeder. Like not replacing the lbj’s so i could justify a SAS.

$4 o-ring;
Sirfives swap of the day: cat c4.4 and a 6speed allison.

who am i kidding: 4-71 Detroit is so much cooler & also justifies a SAS. # 2 pump chump 4 life.

https://youtu.be/Bio-pO1rf1Q?si=HKm70_Xtzr2ltPaC
Gimme a 2 spd rear so i could ‘float’ between gears. Maybe try to get a marlin 4 spd t-case & trick the truck into using 2low. Sorry, got way off topic, the intake manifold is a line in the sand. Do i keep babysetting this retard, or do i find something better? Something that might break things if youre not careful, might need a rebuild every 100k. ‘While i’m in there’ can get deep. If i find another 1gz, i might run it dry out of spite. Then again, its always been ‘enough’, even impressed some folks with its capabilities. If i pull my yankee mudflaps, i could be unstoppable.

 

May as well get some Honda "rodent tape" and tape off all your harnesses under the valley while you got the lid off.

 

I feed stray cats to keep the rodents away, but good point. Gonna do both crossovers and maybe the starter while im in there. Get me a 2kw reman. Wonder if i can find a plastic manifold at a junkyard.

or…
https://xatracing.com/UZ-VVTi-ITB-K...soPpYAGnVbr5CYOn9VnxDI2Pkz0ejJ5kpOk21XuWdCgGF


i’d need 5.29’s just to let her sing.

 

Gonna run an idea by you guys for your opinions. Have 2 tires with gashes on the sidewall now. Thinking of buying 1 new Ko2 to match the spare(new) then using one of tires with a gash as the spare.

+ side some peace of mind & 2 good grip tires either front or back

- side won’t be getting Ko3s anytime soon

Figured I have another 15k miles on older KO2s still…

 

getting them mounted and road force balanced on Thursday. Probably end up getting an alignment too to max out caster to help prevent rubbing. It’s funny you say that my buddy’s 4Runner is having balancing issues with his ko2s. Will keep ya posted

good to hear, I know that has been an issue with bfg’s ko2s so hopefully it’s been resolved

long story but here it is lol. I ended finding some used Toyos with about 20k miles on them for $500. Was totally content with them since they were in good shape and I’m going up in tire size so figured it was a good deal to test them out. A few days later I found a guy selling some brand new KO3s for $1100 which I thought was a pretty good deal. Apparently the guy builds broncos and his client opted to go a different route with tires. I ended up selling the Toyos for $800, making a $300 profit. Went and picked up the Ko3s for $1100 but thanks to $300 I made they ended only really costing me $800.

 

I wouldn't spend money on a single KO2 knowing you're gonna need all new tires in the next 15K. I could have pushed my 6+ year old KO2's a while longer but they were so loud and no longer good in the rain. It sucked spending $1400 on new KO3's but I'm glad I did.

 

that’s a tough one. You save some money by just getting the one new Ko2 but sounds like you will then need two new tires in the near future.

 

I agree with this as well.

Keep one of the old ones as a spare. Try to sell the rest to offset some new ko3s

 

Because reasons

 

Finally wired the SAIS bypass to the starter relay. I had to buy plastic split loom to cover the wire and also extend the wire (this was annoying). This also requires drilling a small hole in the rear of the relay/fuse box by the firewall.


I also swapped rear speakers with Kenwood bargain barrel speakers from Crutchfield. I was surprised that the foam surround that usually disintegrates on the old speakers appeared intact but they definitely both sounded blown.



Front speakers are next.

 

Stop hoping to kill your 2uz!
When I supercharge mine with twice your mileage and it explodes, I wanna be able to buy yours.

Then we'll do your swap of the day.
I'll let you help me kill mine.

 

i’m not gonna put the cooling system back together without an aluminum rad.

 

I hope you get it done before T2S. Don't wanna overheat in the desert

 

Got a little done today.

Removed the previous owner's license plate and just ordered two OEM Toyota front door handles.

**Edit**

Just ordered two Sequoia rear door handles off a junked car in Texas.

 

It's not the reinforced mesh/paper (whatever) surrounds on the that eat shit. It's the JBL that use (IIRC) a foam surround that die? But I thought you had JBL speakers? Is there a JBL stamp on the butt of the magnets? How many Ω does it say it is on the back of the speaker?

 

Dude you were right. Took the rim to repair shop and the guy right away said he doubted I bent it, “these are strong rims”. Told him about the wobble, deflated the tire, cleaned the gunk off and balanced perfectly.
Sweet!

 

Yea, there are JBL stickers on the back of those speakers. And I believe that 2 ohm is on that label too. I'll double check when I get home. I've seen photos of crumbling foam around the paper cone and that's what I expected to see. I'm glad that I just got new speakers which sound excellent to my untrained nonaudiophile ears. Appreciate all of your help to this point. I'll also be using your rear camera posts to plan that install.

 

That makes sense. I was wondering how the heck you got them for $800 and was kinda thinking it had to be juggling the numbers between tires like you did. BTW…. I think: Toyo Open Country , Wild Peak, and KO2-3s are all good tires and you can’t really go wrong with any of them. Each have Pros and Cons but they are all really good tires.

 

Just checked tracking and realized I ordered the wrong gusseted spindles from Fr33lance Fab. Ordered the early Tundra version, not the 04-06 version. Does that count for doing something on my Tundra? FML

It is what it is....just cost me a bunch of bills for return shipping...

 

I picked up my first 1GT last Thursday. 2004 SR5 AC 4X4 V8. 128K miles. The previous owner has owned it since he bought it certified off a Toyota dealership lot at 60K miles in Carson City, NV. Don maintained this truck meticulously over the years, keeping all his receipts and documenting all the work he did on it in an organized binder. The interior looks new. Never been in an accident, never been smoked in.

I flew up to Boise to see the Tundra. I spent 4 hours with Don in his shop going over all the maintenance records, talking about working on vehicles, and going for a long test drive. We signed the paperwork and Don and his wife took me out to Burger King for lunch.

When I left, I headed West and spent 2 nights in Bend, OR (5.5 hour drive) and then drove home (9 hours) in a near white out snowstorm for 3 hours, and then torrential downpour with heavy winds from Mt Shasta, to South of Redding, CA. The truck drove like a dream the whole way. I got it smogged and plated yesterday. I'm stoked.

 

Scheduled the rollback to the shop about 15 minutes ago.

 

CONGRATS!, beautiful rig