What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

FINALLY I can post something on this thread.

Yesterday I made the preparations and the neighbor came over. He pulled my Tundra around and into the driveway. That way the rollback has a straight shot and won't have to risk getting stuck in the yard.

 

First I'm hearing of this. Busy couple of weeks ahead, but I could probably have a set waiting for you on the way through. Or send them with Beau and John.

Holla at 'cha girl.

 

Not sure i follow...did you just swap old bulbs to LEDs?

 

That really sucks. I hope it can be fixed. Don't you have the wheels that are hard to find?

 

Unboxed some new drive shafts picked up at Serra Toyota Decatur during the big 25% off sale. I'll keep the old ones as spares and maybe put on some new joints or a center bearing as time permits. Not an urgent project. It's more like preventative maintenance down the line.

 

You're the first person I've seen order new drive shafts. Surprised they still sell them. Care to share what they cost?

 

So ended up selling the Toyos for some profit because I got an insane deal on some brand new ko3s. Ended up costing me $800

 

Pulled the dash bezel and finally swapped the self tapping screws that came with my Teq Offroad MAM mount with some bolts. I drilled the holes a bit and the nuts fit perfectly from the back. That didn't sound right. No more vibration and it's solid now. Moved and mounted a Ram ball to the console for my tablet. Shitty pics, but you get the point. I also bought an OBD LInk MX+. Great little code reader and gauge tool.

 

Mine gets delivered Thursday, along with all of the other inbound crap. Right at $1300 from Fr33lance Fab.

My Tundra DESERVES it....damnit.

Here’s why your 4x4 First Gen Tundra deserves this upgrade:

• Updated 1310 U-Joints – Forged solid-cross NEAPCO u-joints strength and long-lasting performance.
• Fully Serviceable CV/Double Cordon
• Spicer Double Sealed Carrier Bearing - (OEM is single seal)
• Custom Built To Length Your Vehicle - (no vehicle is the same)
  • Reference Photos For How Too Measure
• Forged Slip Yoke
• USA Made DOM Tubing
• Balanced To Perfection - no bad vibes here.

 

That was a truck I used to have. Found these little blue lights that I put in taking out the old stock bulbs. don't even remember what kind there were.

 

Reminds me I finally determined one of my dash squeaks is from the climate control attached to the back of the radio/AC bezel. Some of the screws are missing and/or broken. I think I'm just going to gorilla glue it, before it eventually fails and breaks apart

 

Vacuumed out the carpet a bit (it didn't need much) and put in the Weathertech floor mats I ordered a few months ago. (Both sides front and rear put in).



Walked around her a bunch and admired. Made plans for what to fix next.

 

Could it be that some trail trash just got lodged between the wheel and the rubber tire bead? That used to happen to me all the time when i was out wheeling. And that was the main reason i switched to a headlock wheel. I never had any more problems with air leaks in the bead areas after that.

 

I had a few that were loose. I also replaced 2 worn ones behind the knows. No more rattling...yet.

 

I know they aren't, I was just breaking your balls.
You going to be at T2S this year?

 

Google brought up a few options.

 

Interesting. Maybe but can see the leak right where the rim was hit.

 

50/50 at the moment

 

This reminds me, I still need to remove my spare tire and file down part of the wheel. I've taken some good rock rash on my KMCs over the years. The spare has a chunk of metal sticking up from the rim that sometimes lets out air, by poking the tire just enough to slightly debead, when aired down, off camber. But I'm hoping to have the MSTs and 35's on her sometime soon, after T2S and LST Jamboree.

Might be visible if you zoom in

 

Do me a favor and and let me know if you have any balancing issues. I’ve got KO2s on my 4Runner (C rated)and Tundra (E rated). I’m still having some issues with vibration at 60 MPH on the C rated but the E rated on my Tundra are smooth as silk. I had read that BFG had done something to get better quality and consistency (in round, etc…) tires with the KO3 line-up. Just curious about your ride quality.

 

I got new KO3'S in January. No balancing issues here. I went with load range C.

 

It was during the recent 25% off sale at Serra Toyota of Decatur. With their usual discount +25%, it came out to 48% off.

These sales come around once or twice a year. I'll buy parts and hold on to them until the time comes when I need to use them. I keep old driveshafts as spares.

 

Some day I think I'd like a one piece drive shaft. Unfortunately Tom Woods doesn't have any listed on his site for these trucks. But the "woody" drive shafts are popular among other Toyota models. He does offer custom drive shafts, too. I'd be surprised if he didn't already build some Tundra ones in the past.

 

Thanks for sharing this, may have to jump on that sale sometime down the road myself. Have a couple U joints in rough shape and badly rusted (I think at least 1, if not both in the front shaft). I just greased everything up so hopefully some vibrating issues I had going on are fixed in the meantime.

 

Replaced bolt and bushings on parking brake equalizer pivot point. Was completely frozen up with zero movement because of how rusted up it was. The bolt snapped clean in half when trying to remove...I thought the nut on the top end was removable and couldn't get it off until i figured out it was molded/welded onto the bracket as one piece. I was able to eventually get the snapped end unthreaded thanks to the help of my neighbor who had death grip pliers to twist it off slowly but surely.

Now the equalizer can freely move and pivot as it should. Coupled along with brand new bell cranks replaced last week.

 

Note @wtrbrdm's pics on the last page, how the shafts are marked with arrows so they can be clocked properly on install? Mark your old driveshafts BEFORE you pull them to be like that. It doesn't need to be anything significant. Get a yellow paint marker and put a dot like you're filling in a blank on a ballot. Or draw arrows that point toward each other where the shafts join so it's a bit more clear. You or whoever you sell it to later will thank you when they go to install.

 

Why do you think you need a one piece driveshaft?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5ab8BOu4LE

 

Pfff. We love guns around here.

 

Is there any way for a water pump leak to get coolant into the engine valley?