What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

ADS is my end goal eventually. With solo uppers and lowers and uniball lowers. I think I'm about as high as I can go in the back to keep the fronts level.

 

Ill probably get uniball lowers in a few years when its time to replace my lbj's. Definitely pricey but nice to not have that weak point anymore.

 

My understanding is that the uniball conversion is stronger but the uniball will still be under constant tension as opposed to compression force due to the original design. Is this correct?

 

Lifted 2" on OME nitro chargers and 2885's with SPC UCAs.

 

Im not sure and would look into it more when it actually comes time to purchase. Its definitely not cheap. However I was under the impression it basically made that failure a non issue. But i could be totally wrong and thats just wishful thinking.

 

Once again, @shifty` and all the knowledge here makes it simple to find if you spend a little time reading. Per the thread here.

• For 'normal' or 'mostly freeway': -0.3 camber, 2.6 - 2.8 caster, 0.1 - 0.2 total toe (0.05 - 0.10 per side).
• For those who like to corner faster: -0.5 camber, 2.6 - 2.8 caster, 0.1 - 0.2 total toe (0.05 - 0.10 per side).
• Basically, get that camber closer to -0.1 if you're mostly driving freeway, but aiming closer to -0.3 may help offset outside-edge tire wear.
• IF you are running SPC upper control arms: Some shops may be unfamiliar with this product, it allows camber/caster to be set from both lower and upper control arm, versus OEM, which only allows setting from below. My advice? Consider pre-clocking your SPC uppers at "C" before going in for alignment, or tell the shop that's installing to clock at "C" instead of "D" so you can max out the caster later. Possibly the easiest way to get there would be to max out the cams with the LCA as far forward as possible (front cams pointing inward, rear cams pointed outward). Use the SPC balljoint slot to get things in the ballpark, lock down the balljoint, then fine-tune with the cams on the lower control arms. On mine, with my alignment already good, I found clocking the UBJ at "D" puts you in the OEM ballpark, "C" puts you close to the numbers above. When you get it home, make sure the UBJ shim is properly in its slot, then confirm the nut is torqued to spec (150ftlb)!

Looks like I need to get it back in and speak to the shop to increase my caster numbers and get it within these specs. My camber is a little off too. They are a big shop in the area, and I'm sure they know what they are doing and are familiar with the SPCs. Had a bunch of LCs, Wranglers, and other Toy trucks in the parking lot getting work done.

 

Ordered a new Metra steering wheel control harness from Crutchfield that hopefully fits. While doing this I decided to also get front and rear Kenwood KFC 6.5in speakers to try to get rid of the mild crackle I'm now hearing in my rear speakers after my headunit install last week. I was going to repair my speakers using Simply Speakers foam but they were still going to cost $30-35 per pair. I'd rather get new speakers at $39 per pair with free mounting brackets and speaker wiring harnesses.

 

The Total Chaos uniball conversion looks almost fail proof so I imagine if the FGT design flaw is still present that most of the risk is mitigated with the beefed up construction and uniball design. Not sure though

 

You ought to buy @RUSTYNUTS MCM Fab uniball uppers at T2S

 

I have a speaker repair kit if you want it. I can ship it to you for free. I bought it thinking my truck had stock speakers, but they didn't.

 

Appreciate the offer @Dakillacore
That is very generous of you!
My speakers are set to arrive tomorrow so I should be good to go. I bet someone else who hasn't already hit the buy button will take you up on that offer.

 

No problem at all buddy.

 

Looks like they didn't really do much.

Get at least -0.3 camber and 2.5+ on caster.

 

Crappy pic but you get the point. I ran the camera on the license plate for a bit, but the connector is sensitive to rain and snow. I moved the camera into the topper using a mount from a guy on Etsy. For the mirror, I used the direct mount vs the rubber mount. The rubber mount mounts the Wolfbox mirror on top of the factory mirror. The direct mount adapter fits perfectly into the "stud" on the windshield...so I removed the factory mirror and installed the Wolfbox in its place.

 

The negative terminal decided to snap on the Camry today. Ironically, I had applied dielectric grease and it snapped up on reinstallation. Hah.

 

What i did to this FGT today?
Discount tires Rotated & Rebalanced after 1st 4000mi; theyre the cheapest 265-65-17 they had in Merced as i headed home to SoCal w/new2me FGT...basically temp tires until I sorted out suspension.
Since that tire install of 6/24, the TPSMs stopped transmitting, or at least just displayed the flashing icon. I tried any number of combinations of resets, as some have described here; no luck. While at Discount, I asked about the 'sender issues' and price of new ones.
One hour later, 5 new senders @ $70 ea, installed [never noticed if KY was used]. $60 ea: seemed exhorbitant, but IDK...I weighed my own tire pressure monitoring system [eyeball +handheld TP gauge] vs. that amber flasher....
To their credit...b/c my spare was over 10yrs old, they couldnt remount it, but they did 'give' me a spare that looks new, altho its a 255-75-17 which is about 1.5" larger diam and rotates 30 times less per mile. For a short run to a tire repair not a big deal, but I'm sure theres some control risk + undue differential wear at very least?
Is a TPMS on the spare even required?...thot to decline, but what the hell, at least I'll know if the spare ever goes flat before a long haul, or will I??

 

If you have a limited slip differential, put the spare on the front & move one of the fronts to the rear (if a rear goes flat).

 

What brand of dielectric grease did you use? It doesn’t look like it did it’s job.

 

DIY rebuild is pretty straight forward. PM me next time you’re due and I’d be happy to show you how to rebuild them. I’m only about 45 minutes from King without traffic.

The stock flaw is still present with the TC conversion, but as you’ve both mentioned the possibility of failure should be minimized given the added beef. I just picked up and installed mine last week. My truck is full LT, so I could justify the added cost. For a lifted (or stock) truck, I would stick with the OE LBJ and just check them as the miles add up. FWIW, I ran Moog on my truck for 6+ years without issue. I’ve mentioned it before, but truck is well prepped, doesn’t max out the LBJ, and it checked before and after every desert trip.

The only way around the stock flaw is to fabricate uprights with a double shear for a uniball, something similar to this (both of these are modified Toyota 4wd uprights, first on a Silverado, second on a Toyota pickup):

 

Thx Sirfive...yep, its an LSD.
when I get a rear flat, ill be changing 2 tires...more likely I'd just limp to the nearest tire shop, OR... look for a correct size on Clist, [under 5yrs old] and get it mounted= done. OR, wait til I wear these down or want to upgrade and keep one as a spare...
Like I said, really wanted to skip TPMS #5, but Im here now...

 

You must also take into consideration the reason you don't hear a negative review is because 99.999999% of Toyota drivers aren't forking out the exorbitant cash for ADS, so there's not a lot of people reviewing. And due to the cost, you'd have to be a fucking nutjob to effectively admit, "I just blew that much money on coilovers that are just okayish".

Credit where credit is due, that's @assassin10000's knowledge. I just pasted it in there.

I try to say this as much as possible, but it's important to understand: That thread is community knowledge. People ask me to add things they've found semi-regularly, and I usually get around to it (but sometimes need a prod or two).

Great community here, and I appreciate all the help keeping great info pumped into that thread.

After replacing TPMS sensors, especially if IDs (or sensors) are changed vs. cloned, you need to follow the Owner's manual instructions to reset, then go on a 20 minute drive so the sensors can re-register.

Tire stores have a tool that can "excite" a sensor and get it to reply if it has bettery, it's easy to figure out if one isn't transmitting.

You must program at least 4 tires into TPMS. If you know the ID of your 4 working tires, you can delete out the 5th.

Flashing is always "communication error", i.e. the TPMS is listening for a sensor that's no longer transmitting, or there's a failure with TPMS receiver. I can't remember the last time we've ever seen the latter.

 

Ha, no I just applied some for the first time but apparently I was too late.

 

People have spent a lot of money on Icon and Fox and admitted they are just ok. Myself included.

I believe ADS makes a great product but I agree they are a ton of money and overkill for most of us. But I'd still like to have a set.

 

King bling!



When the time comes to rebuild, I'd like to order the parts to upgrade my coilovers for reservoirs.

 

Its not just for offroad, good shocks are always good. Rough roads, rr tracks, speedbumps, etc.

 

I know a guy with ADS on his 2nd gen Taco PreRunner. I don't think he off-roads it enough to justify em, but it's not my money. I'm sure someone would say I don't off-road my truck enough to justify a lot of stuff. In my defense, it's my dedicated adventure rig. Being built with the eventually of the apocalypse in mind.

 

I was pleased with ADS on my last truck for so many reasons. The quality, customer service, the reliability, the ease of install, etc. I questioned a softer spring on them, but now with a double cab I would not at all. Going forward I would be curious about Radflo or King; but given how much time/energy I’ve put in the Fox, and my amount of free time, I would go ADS and be worry free.

 

Thanks. I like the color a lot. I used a wrap on the chrome bumper strip and the chrome strips you see on the grill in the background. I used plastidip on the mirrors. I looked on eBay for used mirrors in that color and they were almost non-existent or really expensive ($170+). The plastidip came out decent and looked better than the chrome. For reference, it’s flat black.
I have the TRD grill on the truck now, but I’m going to swap it back to the original style with gunmetal wrap covering the chrome strips. IMO, The TRD just looks out of place so I’m going back.

 

That sounds like the wrong attitude. Strive for more!

 

I have the wolfbox kit and haven’t installed it because I have a camper shell. Can you add a link to the mount?

how do you like it?