General Supercharger Thread

Ring gaps and lands is a problem. Nice thing about the scg1 I have is I can set it to cut boost at certain afr’s. I’ve also got the meth as a nice back up as well. We are aiming for 11’s with the turbo. Saw 12.7 yesterday when we added another 1.5psi so I’m loading a tune to fix that before we move up anymore.

 

BOOOOO. Guess ill port this one lol

 

so how was everyone break in period for new gears?
im gonna go out to put miles on around town

 

500 miles of stop and go and then fluid change. I cheated on mine and did 350-375ish and then changed fluid and loaded the rzr on the trailer to go to the lease. No issues after 10k miles.

 

All this talk about AFR. I try n target between 11.5 and 12.2 as a max for WOT. 12.8 being too lean and 9 way too rich. Only thing I don’t like about too rich is washing the lubricant off the cylinder walls and power loss, but I don’t think there’s significant power loss til you get below 10. With that being said, with the worry about running too lean, how often are y’all replacing your stock and gauge AFR sensors?

 

Of course this comes down to quality of tuning...
Mine blew at 11psi 12.3 afr at 5500 rpm. Bullydog denied my bill for a new engine.

 

first 100 in.
what fluid did you go with when you changed it?

 

75-90. I like my vehicles to keep the same fluids so the Durango and tundra both run 5-20 oil and 75-90 diffs.

 

Well the cats I bought are not able to withstand the heat and pressure. At least they said send em back and refund me. Looks to be only press fit, oh well. Straight piping it for now.
Will have Keith make up some mids with mufflers later on. Guess he's working on some JBA style headers and I mentioned about the single AIP pipe (like arh) off the 7 and 8 primary.

 

Why do you want cats anyway?

 

Well its straight piped now. I think it'll lower the psi a little which is probably safer...when is the 1.9 coming in.

 

@centex has it. Why complicate things. Who knows maybe the 75-90 synthetic quiet things down.
I got a gallon of the delvac 75-90 synthetic that @blenton mentioned with no friction modifiers for the lsd rear. I'll use it when I'm ready for the change out.

 

FWIW I run either valvoline or Lucas for diffs. Walmart generally has pretty good deals on fluids. Tried redline and amsoil and royal purple and never noticed a difference for the price increase.

 

Sorry if I am overstepping, but I have been saving my money for a bit and I have 2 more years of paying for daycare and then I am building a new garage with a lift to do sidework/restore my 79 Camaro. Can you give me an Idea of what you are about to spend on the garage?

 

I wouldn't accept that. .015" is not acceptable and is extremely loose. They most definitely will whine and likely wear out very prematurely. If that's how they send it back to you than they should be ashamed. That is not a job done right. Make them do it right!

 

No worries, no different than talking about what we pay for trucks and mods IMO. I’ll say it can vary a lot totally based off of options you choose. Definitely get at least a few prices.

For the base building and these options I’m looking at 33.5k for just the building not counting garage doors, concrete, electrical work, lighting etc. I’ll do the electric, door openers, and lights on my own most likely.

Other add ons:
11x14 doors are 3500/door
8x8 door is 2k a door
Basically looking at 10k for doors. This is with no openers and these are higher quality insulated doors than your standard foam door so they cost a lot more.

6” concrete will be about 9k.
Site prep I’m expecting 2.5-4k.

Basically, do the math for a rough idea of what your project may cost.

 

Thank you brotha! That is actually a bit of a relief to me. I had budgeted quite a bit more because I always like to overshoot what I think I will be spending. Thanks for the break down. And good luck and show us progress when it's being built!

 

they wanted to charge my more labor time plus parts etc.

 

Well that's a shitty situation. There is no reason to charge you more. They should have set the backlash properly the first time. Hopefully you will be ok.

 

because they didnt have the shims and then for them to order he said it would of been another 3-4 days and obviously i couldnt take the truck

 

That sucks. Sorry to hear man. Good luck. The gears sound ok to you at least?

 

I'm confused. They quoted a price to do the job, then did it wrong & want you to pay again?

If that is right, I'd be telling them to refund the money so you can have it done properly elsewhere seing as the gears most likely need a costly machining now. When thay call bullshit, I'd say I'll be filing a charge back on my card (hopefully you did not pay cash) and giving them the awful review they earned.

 

No problem! Also realize this a pole building which is more affordable to build. Not sure if that was what you had in mind or not. Always better to budget high!

 

theyre actually pretty quiet and getting better with miles

 

apparently the lash is only out by like 3thousandths.
yeah its still out but its not severe be said he wouldnt let me go with it if it was worse or would do any damage later on.
not sure what he would have added per labor but to order the shims and time waiting. theyre the main performance and 4x shop up here. apparently they do like 3-4 gears/ diff work a week and assured me that if it was bad they wouldnt let me take it

shitty part about living so rural from major cities that have other options

 

I hope it is ok.

 

Just for reference, 8thou BL is max for the Toyota 10.5” rear

 

They still could have stacked some shims in there. I know it is a pain cramming in those skinny shims. Thats why toyota washer shims are nice to use.
But the 10.5 rear carrier bearings are the same as Dana 44, SK13, shims, same for front carrier. Every gear shop should have those.
And the front uses GM 9.5 for pinion race and head.

 

yeah apparently they didnt have any and said they dug through their box of shims ‍
but as i said theyre barely noticable with sound. im already close to 200mi in