Gunna need some help with this one....

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I bought this 02 2wd drive AC in September. It squealed pretty bad from pulley, and the timing belt was due, so I only put about 25 miles on it before I pulled int into my shop. I worked on it when I had time during the fall and winter, and cleaned and cleaned like the engine like you wouldn’t believe. It was so nasty you could barely make out the fuel rail. Finally got it all put back together and I started it up last night and it idled rough wanting to stay around 400 rpm. I looked all over and under to check for leaks of any kind considering how much I had replaced…all looks good. I did hear a noticeable, but not too loud hissing sound that seems like it was coming from around the right of the TB (if you're facing the engine) near the pcv hose. It wasn’t too loud, but def noticeable. The sound reduced prob 80% after killing it and firing back up later, so just something to note. After it was warm, I started to give it some pedal and noticed It will not go one tick past 3000rpm and then nada. Not 3100, or even 3050..but dead on the 3k line it stops, everytime.

Last night I read about some tundras that fried the EFI2 fuse and would not go past 3000 rpms…man, was hoping that was going to be it. I checked both EF1 and EF2 today..both look great. I have taken the positive cable off for a couple minutes hoping that would clear something per a google search. No dice. This evening its actually idling a little higher , around 8-900, but I feel like its rougher.

I have cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, took the TB and cleaned in, out behind, New PCV gear all around from valve, grommet, hose, and even cleaned out the chamber on top of the TB that was full of gunk and the port that goes from there thru the TB, it was full of gunk. I spent a cpl hours just cleaning the TB. My biggest fear for months has been getting all this back together and the timing be off. I watched one of the FGT timing belt vids on YT, the one by TRQ I believe, and it was step by step. I did exactly like that..my only concern was that one mark was slightly off the "T" mark.. I never could get it to be 100 percent, totally, OCD perfectly lined up but close. With the cam slightly off, the other cam and crank were dead on. I consulted some articles and feel like this was good..and it may be. If I were to tear it back down, I don’t know what I would do different once I got down to the belt. I have attached pics. Ofc, doing the valve covers I had to remove a few hoses on the left side but have them back like it was. Even took engine pics from an 03 a coach drives at the k12 I work at just to make sure everything was right. I really don’t want to just say it’s the timing and then do all that work and find out it’s not. Even though it is running and idling rough, I find it odd that the timing being off would govern something so accurately like making the RPMS stop EXACTLY at 3000. To me it it acts like its starving for either fuel or air. When the needle lines up at 3000 its not going any further. Feeling pretty bummed after working on it since September. Im attaching vid showing how its acting, and also a pic of the cam gear that was barrrrrrrellly off the mark. I know it may be easy to chalk this up to timing because it was just done but my gut tells me its something else.

My cheap Ancel ODB reader fails when trying to connect to the truck but it works fine on our other three cars so Im not able to pull any codes. It wouldnt do it before I started working on it either, but the guy I bought it from was able to with his.

Here is what I have done to it.

Timing Belt
Tension
Cam seals
Crank seal
Drive Belt
Valve Cover gaskets
tube seals
shotgun seal
oil adapter seal oring
new plugs
air filter
pcv valve
pcv hose
cleaned front and back of TB
cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF cleaner
new rad
new upper and lower rad hoses
new fan mount


Here is link to how its acting...wouldn't let me upload the file directly.

here is pic of the cam timing mark thats barely off..

 

You're on the wrong cam timing marks. Supposed to be on the vertical lines, not the "T."

See here, here, and here.

 

When doing the timing belt replacement, you can rotate the engine to 15° past top dead center to the T mark, which puts the cams in a spot where they won't want to rotate. I've done this on all three of the UZ timing belt jobs I've done, and it works great. However, the crankshaft must also be at 15° past TDC. If you timed the engine so the cams were at the T mark, but the engine was still at true TDC (0°), then your engine is out of time.

 

THanks for reply. Yes thats what I did. I read where the T is for Timing..and yes mine kept jumping when using the line marks. I read the line marks are for just wanting to know TDC and for using after the belt is on to check for cams and crank lineups. So, I did what this mechanic did....line up two cams on T-mark, wiht a sharpie mark the a a gear on the crank cog and then make another mark on the housing.. heres my pic and he starts this process at around 26:00 min here

So, i was going to replace the crank and cam seals.. So, line up the cams to T....then mark the crank cog with sharpie..remove crank cog and cam sprockets...replace respective seals...put cam sprockets back at T like they were and torque...and then torque crank cog back so that it lines up wiht sharpie marks.

It all worked good, and THEN...after rotating belt using the crank...all three lined up on their respective marks...with just that one came being just barely off perfect. this is why I think its something else. Everything lined up good and I dont see how timing could force the revs to stop at 3000 rpms exactly..every time. If you google somethiong like "tundra wont rev past..." it will autofill with 3000. tundras and sequoias stopping dead at 3000 is a thing. its just that the two things mentioned were not a fix for me...the efi fuse 1 or 2. so im struggling with the timing being the issue...it may be in the end..but i reaaallly got to to exhaust all possibilites first...and if I did redo the timing iI dont know what I would do different..i followed the vid and it all looked good to me. some ppl said fuel filter...and it prob needs one, but that wouldn't make it stop at Precisely 3000 rpms..it would be less sometimes and more sometimes..since the flow thru a clogged filter would fluctuate and not be so precise..Im really sleepy so I hope im making sense...been at this all day and night....

 

thanks for reply...so I lined up the cams at the T mark..then marked the position of the crank cog with a sharpie like this mechanic did. I then took the cam sprockets off, and the crank cog...installed the three seals....put the sprockets back at T mark like they were and the crank cog back at the sharpie mark...I then cranked the engine around a cpl times and t they all lined up. just the cam above was slightly off of perfect but no more than any other timing pics I have seen..just barely. And whent the belt was on and cams line up and the cog lined up with the dimple that is off of right center top like its supposed to.

Im not much of mechanic, but its like its being governed by something. Like a limp mode or something. Someone said FGs have a limp mode and to erase it you just take the postive lead of the batter...which did not work.
I followed this guy exactly here: starts at 25:55

if you google something like 2002 tundra or first gen tundra wont rev past....... it will autofill with 3000rpms. its a thing. its just the two solutions i have read so far were not a fix for me...those being a fried EFI 1 or 2 fuse. and possible limp mode.. some said fuel filter, but like timing, a clogged filter would vary with the fuel throughput ..sometimes you might go to 35 or 3100 rpms...this thing sticks at 3000 as if its being governed. that's why i want to exhaust all things first..i just cant see how the timing could be so precise at 3000 rpms and then not a fraction more.... i hope this make sense, I'm sleepy and been working on this for along time today.. thanks for any ideas.

 

Kudos for a very well written and applicable info....hope you had restful night.
While the correct timing is very important, I'll set that aside a lot of what you said concerning timing and ask a few other questions first.

Bingo....that is the fail-safe mode the ECU places the engine control in, restricts the engine's RPM to around 3,000 when a problem exists that calls for it.

Do I assume correctly that your check engine light is on ?
If so, a trip to your local AutoZone, Advance Auto etc is in order before you run yourself ragged. Also, recheck you have all the sensors plugged back in, particularly the MAF sensor, coolant sensor etc.

You may know this but when it's all ready to go, codes cleared, timing in order and given all the component cleaning and replacing you have done, you'll need to unhook battery for 10 min or more to place ECU in relearn mode.

Good Luck

 

Thanks for reply Bubba, got some good rest and back at it. Yes, CEL is on. I live in the sticks and about 45 minutes from parts store and the way its acting I'm concerned about taking it anywhere that far..so last night I ordered a much higher caliber ODB reader than my 29$ one..will be here tuesday.
I am going to verify the sensors you mentioned are connected and go back look for anything else. Thanks for direction and confirming its in limp mode.

 

Didnt know about unhooking battery for 10 min. Thanks.

 

Hey man, thanks for reply and taking the time to send the supplied links. Not sure of my 02 is different in this way but you line up the timing belt on the marks and not the T mark and release tension to start in on removal, etc..it jumps. :/ The T mark has it to the nearest point so it wont...this has not been my favorite of all tasks.

 

Yeah, the jumping is well documented. Bubba shared this site many moons ago and it's a great resource: https://www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/toyota-2uz-fe-timing-belt-marks-4-7l.335/

 

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Thanks for replies. Thanks Bubba for focusing with me on connectors, like u suggested. It was a fuel injector connecter on driver's side closest to firewall. Idles dead on 1,000 and goes past 3k. Huge difference between working on it after work by flashlight and even shop light as opposed to pulling it outside and looking it over with sunlight. now it has a big coolant leak. its dripping off the bottom of the belt on the generator pulley..cant find it yet..about to pull intake box a cpl other things so I can see down in there. Im guessing it might have something to do with water pump area...its dripping a drop a second. i used FIPG..well see. one thing at a time thanks again for replies and tips.

 

Yes, if you read further on the thread I linked, you'll see I experienced it jumping also. It's tricky.

I see you got the limp mode resolved, congrats!

I hope you get your coolant leak fixed easily.

 

In the timing belt sticky thread which gives a full rundown on how to do the entire job, two things: One, there's a trick that shows how to make the timing jump one tooth in either direction on a cam, in case a jump gets your timing out by that little amount. Two, in one of the videos in that thread, I remember seeing someone using a trick to keep the cams stationary, using a basic clamp. Either of these two things may help you get it right.

Link to that thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-master-thread-sticky.107240/

 

Happy for you that is was indeed a simple matter to fix.

Once you get your coolant leak figured out and everything all buttoned up, unhook that battery for an ECU re-learn. In fact, you may want to wait till you get your new code ready to clear the codes. She may or may not run quite good yet because it will have to complete a few what Toyota calls drive cycles. That idle rpm should settle down to a normal of approx 700 rpm's.

If you don't mind and before you clear the codes, write all of them down and make a follow-up post. Curious to see what all it flagged.

Good Luck

 

Hey man, I will def post them. Reader should be here tomorrow. ANd just like you said..took a cpl cycles and it settle in around 750..before second cycle it was pegged dead on at 1000. it sounded good there..when I put in drive it drops a lot and sounds rough...well see what codes are tomorrow.

 

im saving this info for sure... I think my timing is good. It idles and revs nooiiiiceeeeee now. Are there any signs of it being one tooth off?? Like I siad, I "think" im good but dont have much to go by and only put 25 miles on it since ive bought so part of the problem is I dont know the truck outside of my shop.

 

leak was lower rad hose getting rubbed by generator pulley. Can we just leave it at that ..I dont really want to say why If i dont have to.

 

Sometimes….

 

One tooth would probably leave you with occasional misfire. Or maybe boggy when you jump on the gas.

 

Hey Bubba, got my scanner in and then and my daughter took off to the Ozarks for some trout fishing, been playing catch up ever since. My hand dandy reader says I have an issue wiht igniter switch #3. Switched out 1 and 3 not the codes is pointing to 1 so looks like a faulty coil pack. So far, I have never installed anything that wasnt OEM..except for rad hoses...but...I think in going to go aftermarket on this coil pack...I realy dont want to hav one new OEM one and then 7 23 year old ones..I would rather wait and get all 8 when i can. Ima bout to have to do lbjs, lcas or at elast bushins..shocks, UCA, swary bar link bushings. etc...this truck is original everything.

So, update on firing up after timing job. It idles and responds in idle like a dream..however, when I put in gear to back up it drops down to aroud 350 rpms and goes from a clean idle to a wohh wohh wohh...like a funny car hot rod getting ready for the green light. Prob the coil pack. .

 

I replaced all 8 of mine...albeit 4 at a time as I had the extra $. If you DM me your address I'll send you a perfectly good used OEM coil to tide you over.

 

@fishordie - don’t waste your money on anything but Denso coilpak. Rock auto has them for about $50. Get two and you’ll have a spare for next time.

 

dude...got the coil, in the Denso box no less (which I'm saving), got it put in...no more codes and now when I put it in gear and back it out of the garage it sounds and idles normal instead of the woh woh woh drone.... Stoked. My wife and a buddy of mine were like " he just sent it to you????!!!!...from Maryland???!!!! "

Cant thank you enough. Makes me want to take time to be more like that. Will def pay forward when I get mine replaced.

 

There's a lot of good people on this forum. Glad to see @w666 got you sorted. Now you know: Order up a spare, in case this happens again.

Just don't order on scAmazon/fleaBay/WallyMart/etc.

 

Yay!