What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

It will only turn the brake adjuster if the brake shoes have enough travel to click the star. I think that system is designed to adjust brake shoe travel, not cable slack, although shoe slack will affect cable slack. If shoes are adjusted correctly and you still have E brake cable slack, you have to adjust the cable itself.

 

Since we're on the topic of brakes......

I had some dumbass slow down fast in front of me so I had to hit the brakes pretty hard. I almost went into the back of their vehicle because it did not stop quickly at all. It felt like there wasn't enough pressure on the rotor. What adjustments can I make to tighten it up?

I have already had the brake fluid changed out and bled the system a couple of months ago, but I don't think there is an issue there.

 

Manually adjust the rears first. Using a small flathead screwdriver, adjust the star in the upwards direction when going in from the back side of the drum. No need to take the wheels off, there is a visual adjustment hole on top / above of the axle housing. With the rear wheels in the air, adjust until there is just a slight bit of drag when turning the wheels by hand. Then test. If you need more, adjust the LSPV upwards towards the top of the shaft. I'd send you pics, but I know there are quite a few on here already. The front brakes are dependent on the rears being dialed in.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/#post-2540134
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/#post-2566492

 

Thanks, brother. I'll check this out and report back when I get it situated.

 

i’d beg to differ. Pull the rear wheels & drums, hit it with the brakleen & a shop rag, adjust em induvidually, then fine tune the crossover after bolting the tires on and using a mirror to verify both tires stop on the same click of the p brake. If you take em apart hit the teeth of the adjuster with a triangular file & just clean the grooves. No need to make deep cuts.

 

Today I did the 'beef up the tailgate latch parts' thing. Nothing huge. I did notice that some parts looked newer and had already been replaced once, but with the same teeny wimp parts.

I also installed running boards at the weekend and added fog lights recently, but forgot to post.

Two things about adding the fog lights.
1) The instructions, at least for the later models, say to add a relay. Turns out mine was already there (AFTER ordering one!), so check before you order. if you want to do it.
2) The DC actually needs the fog lights for the Sequoia, otherwise the adjuster mechanism will be loose in its socker. The mega thread does warn about it the DC being much more Sequoia based at the front, but dumbass here relied on the eBay algo thing saying the same one that the AC uses will fit. It doesn't . At least it only cost me a little time thanks to easy returns to a great seller.

My todo list is getting smaller!

 

Got tires mounted on the new rims
Method 703 17x8.5 0mm offset
Yokohama Geolander At 4 255/80 R17

 

Those will look great installed. What are your suspension plans?

 

So I bought some Total Chaos lowering shackles to bring me down a bit because I had too much rake after adjusting my 6112s down to the 3rd notch. While contemplating that project and knowing Id be removing my leaf springs, I decided to splurge and get some Archive Garage Hammer Hangers as well. Truck looks pretty level now. Also took it for a quick test drive yesterday, and this thing has almost no body roll anymore. Probably gonna add some sort of a cross tube from the hangers as well to get even better stability in the rear.

 

What leafs are those?

 

Sick. Are these just bolt on?

 

Archive Garage MD leafs

 

They do bolt on but the oem has to be ground off

 

Yea they bolt on , but you have to drill out or punch out the old riveted in stock hangers. Actually was surprisingly easy. I was watching videos where other guys used air hammers to do it but some grinding and drilling made pretty quick work of it!

Also helps that I ordered the extra drill bits from Archive Garage that cut through the rivets like nothing.

Oh and wanted to add, Archive Garage quality is quite impressive. Not only the welds and stuff they build, but the instructions they provide, how everything is organized and packed. Really impressed!

 

Was ist das? Stiffener of some sort?

​

 

Oh yea, forgot to mention that funny looking thing. So when I had a bumper built 6 years ago, before I learned to weld, the fabricator welded the forward brace of the tube bumper to my frame. The lower tube used to go straight through to the frame. This was fine until the lowering shackles I installed caused the leaf spring to contact the tube. So I cut out that portion of the tube to the frame, and welded a sleeve to attach to the top tube you see now and thats going to the frame several inches higher, giving me clearance on the leaf spring now.

 

Just for a heads up, the Total Chaos lowering shackles lowered me about 1". Hub to fender was 23" and now is about 22". My front is about 21" on both sides. So pretty level now

 

@Tlar25 Toytec 650lb coils paired with 5100s in the front and 5100s with a toytec add a leaf in the rear.

 

I'm jealous. I really want some hammer hangers and their shock relocation

 

The shock relocation would be pretty awesome, but my bed aint coming off any time soon!

Down the road ive thought of building a flat bed and then a new camper on the flat bed. So at that time id probably do the shock relocation as well. But until then, im pretty happy with my setup

 

Took the two Kendas with the most tread to get mounted this morning. They're ready for some test fitting shenanigans soon.

 

@455h0le_dachshund Really like the look of your truck. I think the blue shell makes the pickup truck look of it pop out more too

 

Thanks! I dream of someday the whole truck being blue

 

I would love to get a paint job for my truck with a cool new color other than white. But then I'd just wanna baby it and be afraid of every little scratch, lol

 

Yesterday, actually. 107,xxx miles on the originals. Drivers side was good, no movement when I checked them on the truck, but the passenger side had a bit of play in the joint and the grease was leaking on both ball joints, so they were replaced with OEM.

 

Do you always add black pepper to your LBJ's?

 

Do you not?

 

Noticed that the pesky wiring harness that is always getting chewed on when routed incorrectly during a T-belt change... Is routed incorrectly on my truck, and allegedly has been since 2016 according to the Aisin sticker... Can't believe it's been like that with no visible damage for 70k. Maybe it did get damaged and was replaced? But I have 14 pages of records and no mention of it...

Not sure what maintenance other that T-belt would cause this routing... Not even A/C replacement? Which I have no record of...

Access is difficult to get an ideal zip tie, but I secured it the best I could until I get to my belt job this spring.

Does the bracket have to be removed to route behind or can I unplug and sneak it thru... Hmmmmm. EDIT: Yes it can be fished thru with some grunting, cursing, needle nose pliers, and luck...

 

You got it, yeah I had to do the same thing fishing it back through there. It's tight, one plug at a time with long bent needle nose

 

I've seen this mentioned but never knew what people were talking about. I need to check mine.

What's it look like after you fishes it through?