Rate my timing belt

What do you guys think of my timing belt, and my plan for replacement?

I had some things apart a few months back to repair the dreaded rodent-chewed-knock-sensor-wire (ARG!), so I got a peek at the timing to check for any major cracks etc. Here are the two pics I got:





Truck has 220,000 miles on it. PO had a Gates timing belt put in at 135,000 miles in April 2014. So I am only at 85,000 miles, but 11 years on the belt.

I've recently did a new Denso radiator, new OEM LBJs, and rebuilt the front suspension, so based on what I've learned on here the timing belt is kinda the one remaining "First Gen killer" to take care of. Got to depend on the truck a lot over the summer, but don't drive it much in winter. My plan is to drive the truck about 7,000 miles this summer, read all the resources on here about timing belts, accumulate the parts, and tackle the job at a leisurely pace in my garage next winter. Based on the condition of the belt in photos, miles, and years, do you guys think that's a reasonable plan?

Timing belt will be an intimidating job for me, but I think I can handle it.. hopefully? Local shop quoted me $2,000 for the timing belt job with OEM parts, $1,800 with aftermarket parts. That's a lot of $ for me, although I honestly wouldn't mind paying them to do it - I just worry that they'll be in a rush and possibly make a mistake that could be avoided by me taking like 30 hours to do the job instead and posting a bunch of times on here to double/triple check stuff lol

 

Replace the belt, DIY or pay someone. That is one thing you don't want to wait on because if it breaks....well you know.

I waited too long with a honda once and when it let loose it basically totalled the car- engine was toast.

Do the waterpump while everything is apart

https://www.1aauto.com/how-to-repla...mp-2000-2006-toyota-tundra-47l-v8/video/61657

 

That belt looks like it's in good condition. Can still see markings very clearly. However, rubber degrades over time, which is why we use the 9-10 year change interval. If it were mine, I would be changing it out. I did mine in a weekend. If you don't have the time, it's worth the $2K to have it done. If you don't, and it breaks, you'll be out a helluva lot more.

 

Making it clear we are only seeing a small section of the belt, and if the skin doctor judged what's happening on your entire body based on what they see on my pinky only, you'd probably be pretty pissed when they find a massive carcinoma on your shoulder...

The belt doesn't look bad. It's not glossy, there's writing still visible on the belt.

But let me riddle you this. Knowing that belt is made out of rubber, and rubber degrades over time ... If those were 11-year-old tires, how safe would you feel rolling around in the truck? If the answer is "not very safe", then maybe address the belt soon. Toyota recommends going based on mileage or time, whichever comes first, but you do you.

 

Couple of really good analogies in here!

 

Buy you own parts - buy the Asian kit on rockauto use the 5% discount code. $162

not sure if you replaced your radiator cap, and thermostat but you should do that during this install.

• TIMING BELT. This is huge. The 2UZ-FE specifically is a low-interference engine. If it snaps, above idle/low RPM, the engine may become a boat anchor. Toyota recommends changing @ 9yrs or 90k miles. Sure, you may eek out 100k, 120k, 10-15 years w/o change. Hell, we've seen some make it 200k on what could be the original. However, we've also seen members w/barely 100k snap the original belt. Do yourself a favor, take a 10mm ratchet to loosen & look behind a timing cover, inspect the belt. If you find cracks, don't drive, it may be your last ride on that engine. Don't trust belt change stickers under the hood on new-to-you trucks, take 5mins to verify the belt. Those stickers cost $1-2 online, anyone can slap one on as a selling point. Belt change videos for DIY'ers are here. Shops charge $1k-2k parts & labor to to replace w/new-OEM brand (Toyota/AISIN). Aim for mechanics specializing in Toyota, dealerships charge anywhere 20%-40% more than a private shop. Don't use non-OEM parts here, and change the water pump, pulleys, tensioner while in there.
• There was an issue in earlier models ('00-02) where the planetary gear suddenly grenades if you tow in OD. Rare, but it's happened enough to see a few threads (one, and another). More than Tundras were affected by this issue.

 

OK, thanks for the responses! Yeah. I think I'm hearing that sooner would be better than later. All your reasoning makes sense.

I guess I am just nervous that the shop will mess up the timing, or forget to replace some little clip that leads to a big issue later, or not replace all the little O-rings I want replaced, or bang up my brand new radiator (did do the thermostat and new cap btw, good suggestions). The shop I go to seems good by all past experiences, but it seems hard to find meticulous work these days. I realize that there's no way you guys can judge my local shop or tell me whether it's better to DIY or not.

I guess I just wonder if a timing belt job with all the bells and whistles is something you worry about a tech messing it up, or not really? Obvi nobody can make me some kind of guarantee like "whatever the hell shop you're talking about they're going to be perfect, we promise", but just curious if people have had good experiences or problems with outsourcing the timing belt job to a shop on your first gen?

Appreciate all the opinions here folks.

 

Change the belt. It’s due (overdue). You knowing it needs to be changed and ignoring it all summer will make it hurt even worse (if that’s possible) when it snaps and ruins your truck. Not worth gambling with. I don’t trust mechanics with anything. I do my own work so I know exactly how it got done. When you run into issues, I’ll have the ability to fix it the right way, not just patch it up and get it out due to time and money constraints a shop would have.

 

I feel ya on that @KNABORES. I'm a bit intimidated by the job, but having trouble trusting mechanics with anything too. I'm sure mechanics are mostly great people, and they're definitely more skilled than me, and have better tools, but it feels like the economics of it and the shops they work for are putting so much pressure on people to rush through jobs and get it out the door that they are forced to be less careful than they would want to be..

Maybe I will order the AISIN kit now and commence researching how to do the job. I can always gamble with paying the shop to do it if I chicken out, but at least I will have the parts ready..

I recall another thread with a great "shopping list" of parts, including stuff like the special tools and FIPG that I don't think is in the AISIN kit. I'll read through all that stuff and put my shopping list together.

 

What part of the land do you live? Maybe one of us can hook you up with a reputable shop near by...

On the other hand, I changed my own timing belt without event. I followed all the instructions, and consulted several YouTubes. More importantly I took my time, spreading the job out over 3 days to include plenty of time for introspection. Lay out the parts systematically as you disassemble, and place the various fasteners and little bits in zipper bags, labeling as you go. I saved ~ 900 pre-covid dollars doing it myself (probably twice that much now). Considering I worked ~ 20 hours over 3 days, that's ~ $45/hr...not too shabby. I plan to do another truck this spring.

 

I was very intimidated by the timing belt job the first time I had to do one. My truck’s belt hadn’t been changed in 23 years and nearly 200k miles, and was undoubtedly close to failure.

Just like W666 said, I took my sweet time, paid attention to what I was doing, and it all went just fine. I’ve since done three more UZ timing belt jobs, and I’m planning on doing another in a few weeks. At this point I’m so familiar with these engines that I could do it in an afternoon.

If you’d like, I’d be willing to help you out with any specific questions you have about required tools, parts, or even walk you through the process if you need help while you’re doing it. If you’re in the Wisconsin or Illinois area, I could even drive out and help you if you wanted.

I think shop labor time for a timing belt is 6 or 6.5 hours- which is definitely possible. However, if the mechanic isn’t familiar with this specific timing belt job, it would be nearly impossible to pay attention to all the little details, and keep the total time under 6.5 hours. I would probably trust a shop if they have experience with doing a timing belt specifically on a UZ engine, but if they don’t, I’d steer clear.

 

Honestly - It’s hard to believe the belt is that old. It looks like its in great shape to me.

Was the truck garage kept?

FWIW, me and a buddy changed the timing belt on my Sequoia in about 8 hours in his driveway. A weekend should be plenty assuming you have what you need on hand.

 

Speaking from experience, don't be intimidated.

Read through the sticky thread on timing belts here in this forum. Even that thread might be intimidating at first, but just reread it occasionally

This forum is a great resource if you do run into trouble

Just a few tips from what I learned.

I watched that three part video series in the sticky thread from 1A Auto

I took the time to just write a numbered step by step list while watching that video and hitting pause and simply recording the part to remove and the size and number of bolts or nuts to remove. And I did the same for reassembly. For example, #19 alternator 1x14mm nut, 1x14mm bolt

I also noted where each video started on the written instructions. That was helpful because I did have to go back and watch the video in a couple of places and it helps you ff to the right spot much faster

make sure to keep those nuts and bolts organized. I used Ziploc bags that were labeled with the part and step number from what I wrote from the videos.

One thing that is not clear in that video - when you are reassembling and ready to put the fan bracket on, be sure you have routed the crank sensor wiring harness behind it. That is the only thing I found lacking in that video. If you don't, then there's a good chance that crank sensor harness will get chewed up by your serpentine belt as documented by many owners in this forum. This is where it is handy to have those step-by-step notes. I put it in big and bold on the fan bracket reassembly step: ROUTE CRANK SENSOR WIRING HARNESS BEHIND FAN BRACKET


also, you don't have to completely remove the AC compressor as they do in that video and many others. You can leave the back bolts in because that compressor is the heaviest piece and it is extremely awkward to get back in place and get all the holes lined up


Lastly, that FIPG if purchased through Toyota is outrageous. Many say that they have used other brands successfully, but you can get the AISIN brand who makes it for Toyota for around $25 from a local parts store. Not all of them carry it, but you've got time so if you don't find it locally, you can order it to be delivered

edit to add, I believe it is in those videos where the guy mentions a good rule of thumb for the torque, depending on the nut or bolt sizes:

10mm 10-12 ft/lbs
12mm 15-20 ft/lbs
14mm 25-30 ft/lbs

edit: another good tip have you some good sized zip ties. When you're putting the new timing belt on You can use them on the cam pulleys to hold the belt in place until you get it completely installed and release the tensioner

 

Rate my timing belt


Mid.

 

Wow, thanks everybody! Per usual, First Gen forum is a gold mine of information.

@w666 I'm in Minnesota, the extra cold part by Lake Superior. Would be very open to solid shop recommendations!

@FiatRunner Dude, what a generous offer. I will absolutely reach out with specific questions if I run into them, and it would be really fun to do some work together if it pans out sometime. Looks like I am not terribly far from your neck of the woods (see above). It's a beautiful vacation spot up here on Lake Superior, esp. in the summer!

@Weagle Thank you! Pure gold. I took the same meticulous approach you describe when I took the manifold off to do the knock sensor wire. I was intimidated, but I spent a few weeks reading and watching videos, made the numbered checklist with torque specs and everything, and stored fasteners in labelled ziplocks. That gave me the confidence to do it, and it went pretty smooth! I guess this is the "nerd approach," which is intended as a compliment

I added all your specific tips (FIPG, Crank sensor wiring harness, etc.) to the beginnings of my instruction sheet.

 

OK, good to know! Maybe I can tackle this myself after all.

No, she's been parked outside until I finally got a garage this year. So 7 years outside in the Northwoods here. This truck lived it's first 16 years in Montana where they don't salt the roads, so I find that a lot of things on the truck look nicer than other vehicles of similar age in the salty swamp that is the upper midwest. Obviously road salt shouldn't have anything to do with wear/aging of the timing belt, but just interesting. I wonder if the belt has stayed decent because there's not much exposure to hot weather up here? Maybe the rubber does better in cold than hot over the long term. Dunno.

 

This is a draft that I told @shifty` I was going to write up based on my handwritten instructions from the 1A Auto three part video series in the timing belt sticky thread.

This is a rough draft. I need to clean it up a bit and go back and watch the video and do some clarifications if anyone feels this checklist might be helpful to others in the future







Step by step based on 1A Auto 3-part video series on 1st Gen timing belt replacement.

These are not meant to be instructions, although there are a few tips included. This is simply a handy checklist and reminder while you are working on the project and after you have watched and familiarized yourself through the videos. I noted where each video starts and stops so along with the steps it's easy to locate the right spot if you need to watch that step on the video


keep those nuts and bolts organized. I used Ziploc bags that were labeled with the part and step number

One thing that is not clear in the videos - when you are reassembling and ready to put the fan bracket on, be sure you have first routed the crank sensor wiring harness behind it. That is the only thing I found lacking in that video series. If you don't, then there's a good chance that crank sensor harness will get chewed up by your serpentine belt as documented by many owners in this forum. This is where it is handy to have this step-by-step checklist/notes. I put it in all caps on the fan bracket reassembly step


also, you don't have to completely remove the AC compressor as they do in that video and many others. You can leave the back bolts in place because that compressor is the heaviest damn piece and it is extremely awkward to get back in place and get all the holes lined up.

The FIPG if purchased through Toyota is outrageous. And once opened it is only good for about 10 months max. Many say that they have used other brands successfully, but you can get the AISIN brand who makes it for Toyota for around $25 from a local parts store. Not all of them carry it, but you've got time so if you don't find it locally, you can order it to be delivered

I believe it is in those videos where the guy mentions these torque specs as a good rule of thumb depending on the nut or bolt sizes:

10mm 10-12 ft/lbs
12mm 15-20 ft/lbs
14mm 25-30 ft/lbs

Another good tip is to have some good sized zip ties. When you're putting the new timing belt on you can use them on the cam pulleys to hold the belt in place until you get it completely installed and release the tensioner

If for some reason you have to go back and take it all apart or you have otherwise released the timing belt tensioner, I found it unnecessary to recompress it. Simply barely start the 2x12 mm bolts holding the TB tensioner in place. This puts it in the identical position as if it was still compressed. Then once you have the timing belt in place you can tighten those 2x12 mm bolts alternating a few turns to each bolt until it is snug, then torque. Much easier than trying to recompress the damn spring



VIDEO 1 - TEAR DOWN / DISASSEMBLY
1. Drain coolant 1st at draincock of radiator
1B remove skid plate
1C 10mm drains on each side of engine block (note the radiator overflow tube fits perfectly to route water from engine block drains)
2. Remove negative battery cable
3. remove name plate cover, 2x10mm
4. remove clamp for air filter/intake
5. remove MAF plug & move air intake assembly out of way
6. remove top & lower radiator hose; overflow tube, transmission fluid lines to radiator
7. 4x10mm fan shroud
8. 4x12mm bolts radiator, secure coolant line out of way
9. remove radiator and fan shroud
10. 4x10 or 12mm's - remove fan
11. 14mm - serp belt tensioner, turn clockwise to remove belt
12 10mm bracket? pipe to oil cooler
13 3x14mm bolts, 2x12mm bolts - AC compressor and support bracket. Easier to leave rear bolts and leave compressor installed
13b remove tiny Phillip's screw holding ground wire (DO NOT LOSE, will cause blinking AC light in cab and will only run briefly)
13c unsnap wiring harness
14 remove crank position harness; 2 harness snaps
15 remove clip for timing cover (?)
16 2x12mm bolt remove water inlet, rubber mallet to knock loose if needed
17 14mm bolt serpentine belt idler pulley (not needed???)
17b 12mm center cover
17c 3 10mm bolt/nut dr timing cover
17d 10mm pass timing cover
18 2x14mm(?) nuts/bolts power steering pump
19. 1x14mm nut, 1x14mm bolt, alternator
20 2x12 nut and bolt tensioner
21 2x12mm, 2x14mm fan bracket

VIDEO 2 - FINISH REMOVAL & DISASSEMBLY
22 22mm socket to rotate engine so that cam pulley timing marks for both sides are at "T" to relieve valve spring pressure so it doesn't move later
23 22mm loosen harmonic balancer using harm balancer removal tool
24 remove harmonic balancer using removal tool
24b 4x10mm timing belt crank shield
25 remove crank sensor ring - TAKE PICTURES BEFORE TO ENSURE IT IS REINSTALLED CORRECTLY
26 ensure all 3 timing marks are correct - crank (white), 2xcam timing marks
27 2x12mm remove timing belt tensioner from underneath truck - prob need to use deep 12mm with 1/4" socket with short extension to avoid stripping nut due to tight clearance, my 3/8" was too fat
28 remove timing belt
29 remove 14mm idler and 13mm tensioner pulleys (???)
30 2x12mm nuts on studs, 5 other bolts remove water pump
30b remove gasket and scrape/clean surface

BEGIN INSTALLATION
31 install water pump gasket - NO RTV!
32 install water pump, lube small o-ring thoroughly to prevent tearing and be very gentle
33 plastic block off plate
34 spacer/tensioner 3/8" allen wrench - use a socket set allen wrench so cn torque to 34.5 ft lbs
35 idler pulley
36 install timing belt: RCAM = passenger side, LCAM = driver side, use zip ties to hold timing belt to the cam pulley until tensioner is released
37 ensure all 3 marks are aligned - 2 cams and crank timing marks
38 install @shifty` s favorite phallic timing belt tensioner; pull ring once sure all is aligned
39 install sprocket on crank
40 crank cover plate
41 harmonic balancer
41b use 22mm socket to turn crank and recheck timing marks. belt marks will no longer align but cam and crank pulleys should align with timing marks

VIDEO 3 - finish installation
42 tighten harmonic balancer to 181 ft/lbs
43 serpentine belt tensioner bracket
44 alternator,
45 install block off plate for timing belt cover if not done previously and install water pump bracket BE SURE CRANK SENSOR WIRING HARNESS IS BEHIND THE WATER PUMP BRACKET
46 power steering pump
47 center plastic cover
48 passenger side timing belt cover
49 driver side timing belt cover
50 RTV sealant for radiator hose connector; thoroughly lube O-ring
51 oil cooler tube
52 idler pulley's and tensioner
53 AC compressor
54 12mm bolt and 12mm nut AC compressor reinforcement bracket
55 connect ground wire to AC compressor with the Phillips head, screw, and reconnect harness snap
56 fan pulley
57 4 nuts for fan
58 route serpentine belt
59 fan shroud - hang loosely over fan
60 radiator
61 4x10mm secure fan shroud to radiator
62 secure radiator with 4x12 mm bolts
63 lower radiator hose
64 upper radiator hose
65 overflow tube
66 air duct
67 engine ID plate
68 reattach MAF harness and snap clips
69 transmission cooler lines
70 fill coolant in radiator
71 reconnect negative battery cable to post
72 check for leaks then crank watch for leaks until warm
73 top off radiator coolant
74 reinstall skid plate

 

Hell yeah, I almost feel like this would be helpful in @Baller's awesome Timing Belt Sticky Thread.

 

I did not read all of the replies. I would be more worried about a gates water pump if one was installed. That belt will last 10k miles no problem. 100% on the Aisin kit, I sell and install them all the time. It also comes with a great instruction sheet. Line everything up before taking the belt off. The hardest part will be getting the crank pulley off.

 

Added to the thread. Great write up @Weagle. Let me know if/when you update it and I'll change the sticky as needed.

 

I would trust a mechanic to do it, if I trusted the mechanic to do it. Know what I mean? I'm lucky in that there are two "Toyotas-only" shops within two hours of me. Not dealerships, just shops who specialize in Toyotas. I'd trust them to do it. I found another mechanic, not a Toyota specialist, but an independent shop. The owner is the one and only mechanic, he does his research and his work is meticulous. You don't have to tell him to use OEM. He tells you "this is how I do the job" and that he uses OEM or equivalent. Him I trust. I have him do anything too far outside my comfort zone.

I would only go with a random mechanic, or larger shop where I didn't know which employee would be working on my truck, if I were out of state and had the belt break and needed it fixed to get back home.

I kind of feel the same way about this job as you. I believe, with the in-depth write-ups and youtube videos, that I could do the job. But I decided last year when I bought my truck that I'd hand it off to that mechanic.

 

True words!
First thing I did when I got my Tundra was to pay someone to do it. A shop specializing in Toyota. It's clear they took pride and care in their work as I can see the tiny paint marks on the various bolts they would have touched to signify the bolt has been torqued to spec. Had them do the radiator too while they were there. No extra labor, just something like $200 for the part (Denso)
Now, this shop isn't cheap, but once you amortize it over the 100,000 miles the new belt will last, along with the warranty you get from a shop doing it, plus I didn't have to spend a full weekend (or more) doing it?
There is simply no way I would trust a dealership any more.

 

Had an 04, didn’t do mine until 150,000/15 years old. Belt was in good condition, but water pump was leaking.always garage kept, don’t know if that makes a difference. Me and son in law tacked it not to bad of a job.

 

I think if one were to attempt this themselves, having someone to do it with them is a huge plus, especially if it is your first time. It helps you to double check each step, especially the timing and the reassembly. It's easy when tackling some of these things by yourself to get tired, pressured and before you know it, you forgot a key step.

 

I watched a utube video on how to do it and we done it in about 8 to10 hours. On the utube video when they fired it up after job complete it didn’t start right away. Mine fired first turn of the key. Then I made a a trip to Ohio and back, 12 hour trip one way.

 

I have driven first gen 4.7 Tundras 485K miles and every timing I belt I replaced looked like brand new after 100K miles. Be careful you don't get the new and old belt mixed up when you go back together because they will look the same.
What kills timing belts...rapid acceleration/deceleration (young drivers or city driving). It is suggested you replace a belt after so many years regardless of mileage, but I would factor in climate. If you live in Phoenix the belt will be cooked. In the North, doubtful. In the future I will not be replacing mine until they reach 120K miles and I doubt they will look bad then.
But in my case it's mostly highway miles.

 

I do not concur. Rapid acceleration is not the cause of belt failure. Gambling with your engine is a choice, best of luck with that.

 

Agreed. And anyone can believe it or not, but out of all the instances we've had on here of timing belts snapping, the wild majority of them were at lower idle, driving in parking lots, as the engine was turning off, rolling up to or away from a stop sign in the neighborhood, that kind of thing. Cause was a mix of things, nearly always either snapped clean in half, and some of those were sped along due to oil or coolant leaking onto the belt from adjacent parts which warped/weakened the belt. Or belts getting shredded due to old tensioner/pulleys pushing belt out of whack.

OTOMH, I can only think of maybe two instances where someone had it snap at highway speeds. One was that dude with the "fish" username, who had it snap on the interstate and it destroyed the engine. There was another within the first couple of months I was here, and I signed up back in 2020 after lurking for damn near a year, so it had to be in the 2018-2020 range.

 

Belt wear and belt failure are two different things. Acceleration causes wear. Acceleration causes tension between belt and sprocket. Tension is minimal just cruising down the highway or idling. If a worn belt happens to break when you're idling, it wasn't caused by idling, it just happened then.

 

I’m with Knabores and Shifty on this one Dook