The definitive Steering Rack Thread - with solutions - Updated 10/2020 in first post

Kneetopia, mine just went too, called local dealership and shopped around all over online. Sounds like they have been on back order for several months nationally with no ETA. After waiting 3 weeks with no ETA still I ended up having to just go aftermarket/reman and rolling the dice. Needed to get my truck moving again. Good luck on finding an OEM one right now.

 

Quick update. The OEM rack came in after 3 weeks of back order. Shop installed it and I was out $2500. Shitter. First major mechanical I’ve had in the 23 year I’ve been running Toyota. They recommended replacing my front rotor as I was getting some shake when hard braking at higher speeds. Said it could have contributed to early failure.

 

I have an 08 tundra and am changing the rack and pinion, I had to take a part of the rack in pinion held by 2 bolts to able to take it out , but I am having trouble to place that part back into the rack and pinion, I think the little part is called steering gear box I’m not too sure on the name , but it’s not going back in, any tips or help would b greatly appreciated, thank u

 

Apparently, there is now a 44250-0C170 part number available, I'm not sure if this is their code for a remanufactured 44250-0C160; does anyone know what this 0C170 revision entails? I ask because my local dealer has new 44250-0C160 for $570 or Reman 44250-0C170 for the same price. They didn't show the 44250-0C170 new online but by phone they quoted me $930 for a new, not-refurbed rack, and didn't state what the part number specifically was.

I'm tempted to go with RockAuto Cardone reman for $310. I see a lot of detroit auto but they've got a really bad Trust Pilot reputation; I've previously had good luck with Cardone reman parts.

Our 2012 5.7 limited is used for pulling our small travel trailer, is not lifted, does not get wheel'd, it has 180k and the rack is starting to knock near the ends of travel (like navigating a parking lot) and have some slop.

Any suggestions with these points in mind?

 

Bad news for us.

Our issue started when we had a clunk when turning tight, was diagnosed as slop in the rack and pinion. I had the rack replaced with a cardone remanufactured from Rock Auto and now...

We still have the same clunk
We a new pop/clunk
The steering creeks when slightly rocking the wheel back and forth
The steering feels over powered, now we don't get enough "corrective steer" from the truck, the wheel is "too loose" feeling which causes over copensation when driving. We used Maxlife DexVI, if that matters.
We now have bump steer, road inputs are much more present in the steering wheel than they were before

I'm at a loss for what to do next other than take it to a local reputable shop and start over. This is my wife's daily driver and our road trip rig, we love it but all these steering issues are a major bummer.

Any thought or suggetions otherwise?

 

It's my turn to deal with now too. Factory rack went fine for a few years, replaced it with one from NAPA because of availability, it lasted 2 weeks. I'm sitting on 35's trying to figure out what other steps or parts I need to protect the warrantied rack and get more life out of it.

 

Ya, I just replaced our stock rack at about 185k with a Cardone remanufactured from Rock Auto; it lasted zero seconds.

POS was junk right out of the box. It clunked and the valving was bad causing it to oscillate when turning.

DO NOT BUY A CARDONE STEERING RACK!

At that point I had a reputable local shop pull the Cardone out, I don’t know if they used a Toyota part but it was new and has a 3yr warrant. It cost $2200 for the part, installation and alignment. This fixed the issue.

Rock auto paid for the return shipping of the Cardone but I lost about $1500 after paying to have it installed, aligned and then taking it in several times to a few different shops who all said “ the cardone rack is bad, don’t use cardone racks”. I even tried emailing and calling Cardone wdurimg this, they didn’t reply to either.

 

This thread is giving me the courage I need to get it done. Y'all are awesome. I was quoted $3500 from a local shop. I am mechanically inclined, but don't have the shop space anymore so usually just opt for local mechanics.

This will be my first rack and pinion install. Would appreciate any feedback or "wish I knew's". Got my Detroit axle parts on order, ive had great luck with their stuff in other applications. Here is my truck tax: 2014 SR5 - 6" RC lift and 35" Toyos.

 

I've read mixed reviews, quite a bit negative about Detroit axle steering racks; I went with a cardone as they seemed to have equal hit/miss reputation and I've had good luck with all the axle halfshafts and a few other parts I've bought from them. Cardone was a huge mistake on this steer rack. I am all about DIY, have done lots myself, yet even with that said I'd suggest shopping around. For $2200 including the part, install and a 3yr warranty I have peace of mind and that seemed like a very reasonable and fair price. This was also the highest quote I got in our town, but they had helped us with the diagnosis, been good to us, had the truck, and could have it done by end of the next day. Other reputable shops also offering warranty were as low as $1800 plus tax, also including the alignment.

I'm not saying you shouldn't diy it but, you might do a bit of price shopping and find there are good shops using quality parts, offering warranty for a much better price than you've been quoted.

 

Thank you, that's valuable input. I do plan on calling some more shops in the morning. The shop with the 3.5k quote was using an "Atlantic automotive engineering" r&p, which also seems to have some negative reviews. Looking at repair pal for the work is saying 1.7k to 2.2k in my area. The truck also needs a cv on the passenger side, so I figure I could knock it out at the same time and still be in about $500 and a weekend. Either way, I appreciate the insight Mark. Only thing I do know, is I won't be paying $3500 for it lol.

 

@Bro_Dozer Did you ever get your rack? did you install the detroit axle rack?

I have a '21 and the entire steering assembly is falling apart, I'm looking for some solutions other than putting the same shitty stuff back...

 

I did not end up going with Detroit. After calling around, my local Toyota dealer is giving a lifetime warranty on the OEM part and labor. Even made them reply in writing it wasn't void because of a lift. Ended up about $2600 out the door with tie rod ends and an alignment. But the lifetime warranty took some sting out of it.

 

Damn.. looks like I’m gonna be driving my backup ancient Honda civic with 220k miles for a while , LOL. Thx for the response.

 

I’ve got the parts. I’m damn nervous to start. 300000 miles I cannot continue to limp the oe rack.

 

I did it. Didn’t have to drop the diff fully out. Just low enough to where the cv’s rested of the lower control arms. Took 6 hours. The goat is back in business baby

 

Big shout out for everyone's input on this project. Just completed a new rack install and I honestly would have had no idea where to start if not for the steps listed here. Pretty big job but in retrospect, totally doable for a slightly mechanical person with the right tools.

Tools I purchased: Transmission jack
39mm 12 point socket (hub nut)
some right angle needle nose (Diff. breather hoses)

I basically followed the instructions here. I agree that pulling the Diff out has to be the best way possible. Can't imagine it coming out another way. I did the job solo with the help of my wife to pump the trans jack while I maneuvered the Diff back in place. That went surprisingly smooth. Smoother than the removal for some reason.? The only real issue that had me deviate from the steps laid out on this post was that I couldn't get the axles back into the Diff. So I pulled the hub and axle out as one (two bolts on bottom ball joint) and separated the axle from the hub. This took a puller which I had. Tried heating and beating but without the puller, I don't think the axle was coming free of the hub. Now the axle was free and I was able to get the force needed to push it into the Diff. I just couldn't push hard enough with the axle still attached to the hub. Not sure if anyone had to do this but thought I'd offer my experience to hopefully help if you can't pop the axle back into the Diff. I fought it for a while before I decided to pull the hub.

 

Has anyone had issues with sensors having to be recalibrated or lights on the dash after steering rack replacement? I just had an OEM rack installed on my 2019 Limited and I have the following lights on the dash

airbags
Traction control
Front grill sensor ( no cruise control)
Trailer break error
Pre-collision malfunction
Auto headlight system malfunction
And none of the controls on the steering wheel work. Including the horn….

 

Negative. Sounds like a harness connection or sensor(s) got knocked loose imo.

 

After some headache and a few opinions. Had front speed sensors replaced with oem units. That didn’t work even though the code reader was showing speed sensors as a fault. Additionally had steering angle
Sensor replaced and recalibrated. And that ultimately solved everything!

 

Glad you figured it out. Did the steering wheel get turned, etc? Looking into it there appears to be a LOT of information being transmitted through that steering sensor - makes the large number of codes and errors make sense