Brakes This Time!

Hello again! Went to flush my brake fluid, and I noticed there was a TON of debris in the reservoir, under the screen. Pictures attached. I'm thinking unscrewing the two lines (highlighted yellow) and then backing out the screws would allow me to pull the reservoir out to flush it out with brake clean and re-attaching. Then, doing a brake flush to get as much debris out as I can. Should I approach this a different way? Not seeing much on cleaning out a reservoir, or if it's even advised. I imagine there's an o-ring in there somewheres. Thanks!

 

I used a flexible tygon tubing on a hand operated suction bulb and sucked mine dry and ran a paper towel in it with a long screw driver to clean it out before refilling and then flushed my lines using a Snap-On vacuum pump attached to the bleeder screw to suck fluid thru each line one at a time. I ran about 3 bottles of fluid thru the whole system. I did about a half a bottle to each front wheel and a whole bottle to each rear wheel. I was doing that trying to make sure i got everything out and had all new in the lines and reservoir.

 

Seems like this would be a lot less messy. Thanks!

 

Having seen how well the underneath portion of that truck looks from when you first started posting, my OCD would be in over drive wanting to clean that engine bay.

 

I've been putting it off, but it's my work truck and I've never been OCD about the engine bay. I'll be degreasing everything when the engine comes out here in a couple of months. Planning to do timing, seals, oil pan and oil pump. Just have to build cabinets in my garage for all my stuff first. I'm also really sketched out about any kind of water in the bay due to the brittleness of some of the wiring on the engine harness. No rust, but plastic/rubber don't last long.

 

Toyota sells the plastic connectors and you can Repin the wires. The short grey sleeves that crack around injector and igniter wires can be found at vintage motorcycle shops online. I have not found a source for the slit corrugated wire looms - only black not grey. GM makes electrical tape without adhesive to rebuild harnesses. Honda makes a rodent resistant electrical tape

 

Got some more diagnostic information:
1) Today, at around 1,300 to 1,500RPM (very small window) there was a metal on metal grinding sound I've never heard before. Only on cold start up. Shifts great. After it warmed up it stopped. I did a trans flush but am concerned because I put 4 quarts in and, with the engine running and on jack stands on level ground, I pulled the overflow plug until it drizzled, per every instructions I've read. Now, A LOT of fluid came out, like most of everything I put in. I wonder if the overflow tube can come out resulting in a process which drains most of the AT fluid. I had an Audi that was a plastic tube in pan and it pulled right out. I assume if this was pulled out and never replaced, I would probably be looking at a new pan or overflow tube. Just not sure if they are able to be picked out; and
2) Couldn't recreate the vibration today, but I've noticed that my truck pulls or lurches when it gets initiated into gear (R or D). It sort of lurches as if it wants to go. Initiating into gear is a bit rough too. Like I said, it shifts great in drive, but going into gear it pops forward or back.

Any thoughts from the greatest group in the world? Tried attaching a video, but it's .mov (Apple) format. Let me try to get it into another format so y'all can see.

 

Alright, so, I have isolated the vibration to the brakes. I took a stethoscope and the brake lines are vibrating, along with the whole system, from the master cylinder, ABS and lines running along the frame.
Bleeding the master cylinder helped a little bit, but it comes and goes. I’m seeing that there’s a system bleed that Toyota can do with “Techstream”, so I’ll call them tomorrow on that.
Symptoms: at a complete stop, the brake pedal vibrates and sometimes the vibration pulsates. Doesn’t happen all the time, but most of the time. I’ve bled the whole entire system, at every caliper and the MC. Besides the dealership, I’m at a loss and hoping for a Hail Mary.

 

Are you confident its not warped rotors? Or new rotors and the pads sticking?

 

Old brakes did it and new brakes do it. I’m thinking about rebuilding the seals before going to the dealership for service. They seem a bit worn when I inspected them when changing the brakes. Going to call to get those and try that as a next step.