Suspension Q's (yes I have researched)

Hello all,

First post and I intend to do a build thread, but I'm trying to get my parts list narrowed down. I have done hours of research but it's really hard to tie it all together.

Here's my "plan":
2000 4x4 AC Tundra 265/75r16 on 16x10. The leafs seem to have decent life left, so I'm thinking ride those out for now (Q about this at bottom). My thought is to get 6112/5160 for ~performance upgrade (I had 5100s on my 98 Tacoma and they were rough/OME was too tall. CV issues even with diff drop, etc) and to keep things level with stock leafs. If I replace leafs or add AAL or something I can adjust 6112s up later, or replace coil... Ultimately a 1" lift would be ideal as I didn't feel I needed the 2+" that the OME 5100 gave me on the Tacoma, but stock height initially is fine. Seems like the 6112s provide this flexibility?

Questions regarding 6112/5160 setup:
- Where is the best place to purchase online? (or in person, I'm in Northern CA). Every site seams to have different wording, prices vary a lot, some don't specify what coil or if it includes top hat, etc.
- Do all 6112 w/ spring kits come with the same coil? Is that a 650lb? I understand these are rebranded Eibachs and people have been happy with them. I have no additional weight in the front right now, and no plans to add anytime soon.
- When do you see the true benefit of the 5160 in the rear? Washboard roads? Load carrying? Or is this truly an aggressive offroad upgrade only and 5100s in rear are fine otherwise?
- I have seen the suspension height threads, but I haven't found stock hub to fender numbers. Curious about this so I have an idea where the front may land in comparison to the stock leafs.

Leaf question: The rear right leaf has some kind of helper spring (dont think its a traditional AAL). Truck leans left heavily front and back. Should I remove this? Get another to match the left?

Hub to fender atm:
Front Driver - 18 5/8"
Front Pass - 20"
Rear Driver - 21 3/4"
Rear Pass - 22 1/4"

Any thoughts appreciated, Thanks all

I know, she looks squatty and weird right now.... Rides like a sponge

 

You said you searched, but did you read the "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section of this thread, which contains much of our suspension upgrade and wheel fitment knowledge from the community?: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It also contains a bit of info on the 6112 kit which may be helpful for you, there's a typo in their documentation related to access cab trucks.

 

Paging @memario1214


He has your parts and can answer your questions better than me

 

Oh and stock numbers are in this sticky: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

 

Sure did, and appreciate all the effort you put into that and the collective knowledge. Although it doesn't really address my specific questions. I'm curious what retailers are good to go through in 2025, what people think of that helper on my RP leaf spring, when the extra $ are worth the 5160s, if I understand the flexibility of the adjustment of 6112s for stock height for now vs +1" down the road with a rear upgrade, etc.

If there aren't answers to my questions, that's ok and I will make due, but figured I would see what information I can get out of asking.

 

I would remove the helper and install some new springs like the General Spring HD's. Pair that with the 6112 in the front, set at 2" and the 5160 for the rear.

And whatever you do, do not install aftermarket lower ball joints, stay OEM. You will never hear the end of it if you do.

 

Yeah, I was just trying to avoid buying a new leaf pack right away, as the current ones seem solid still and I'm ok with the height for now. I figured I'd do 6112's, rear shocks, level the front with the adjustability of the 6112s and run it. Then maybe change the rear as I add rear weight and feel the truck out. The shell will be off for a bit and I'm going to take off the lumber rack/side steps.

 

I'll run back through that, but I seem to remember only seeing stock numbers for the rear, not the front.

 

You'll want to stick with other access cab specs since the suspension varies from AC to DC.

My stock numbers which should be similar to yours, see reply #133, page 5.

 

First off, a 16x10 wheel is just too wide for a 265/75-16 tire. Second off, if you decide to go ahead and used that tire/wheel combo, i don’t even think it would physically fit on a 1st gen tundra without double stacking wheel spacers so that it doesn’t rub on the spindle (aka, steering knuckle). And if you double stack wheel spacers, then you will most likely have to weld in some steering stop extensions to the lower control arms so that the tire doesn’t get chewed up on the frame rails or the cab. A 16x7 wheel would eliminate most of the problems a 16x10 wheel would cause, but you’ll still rub some on the frame rails and possibly the mud flaps no matter what wheel a large 265/75-16 tire is mounted on.

 

Beautiful, thank you.

They're already on there... no rubbing. You scrolled past the picture. Maybe you're assuming they don't have enough offset?

 

I didn’t realize that they are the tires in your pic. I was totally wrong with my advice. You most definitely have them installed on the truck. I’m stepping away from this thread.

 

So I plan on grabbing this 6112/5160 package as it seems to be the best deal I can find ~$1300. In the Q&As the site claims the spring rate is 620lb. I have no plan to add weight to the front any time soon, so my research says this should be just right. Otherwise I've read claims from 600-650lb for the springs in these 6112 packages.

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...Hg3cqGeAP1v37Iv3hYltpfc9Ts-bV3i8aAgP_EALw_wcB

Past that, I'll remove that weird top helper deal from the rear passenger leaf to level the rear side-side. I'll set the 6112s to level or slight rake and then I'll assess and decide what to do in the rear as I add weight (shell, light towing, etc). I don't mind adjusting the the 6112 height multiple times in order to do this in stages and get things right, I'm a tinkerer for better or worse. I can't handle hitting the stops coming off speed bumps for much longer. The shit the PO threw in there is a joke.

I believe I'm right in assuming that my stock UCAs are all good doing this, and even bumping things up 1" to 1 1/2" down the road?

Will be tackling LBJs, various bushings, steering components, etc while I'm in there. Open to folks' thoughts on any of this or if you see something that I may be missing.

 

I would replace the uppers myself, too many variables.

 

Variables like?

My understanding was upgraded UCAs were for correcting alignment after 2" lift and for more down travel, neither of which I need.

 

Looking at the picture it looks like the front has really sagged over the years, what do all the bushings and joints look like, how many miles, can you loosen the lower cam blots, brand new shocks and springs will amplify other issues, I could go on

 

214K. PO put $60 ebay coilovers on it, that's why it's sitting so funky. They ride like a sponge.

I will be replacing most of the bushings and moving parts right off the bat, mentioned this in my last post.

I'll know about cam bolts when I go to swap LCA bushings, if they're beat or I have to cut them, I'll replace them.

 

I had an assload of questions too. One call to @memario1214 cleared them up for me and set me on the right path. He also got me a few parts along the way too. Love that guy.

 

Is this the same as the package I linked in post #13? Or is there something specific to make/model?

https://hotshotoffroad.com/products/6112-5160-suspension-kit-19-23-ranger

 

That's for a Ford ranger, but basically the same. Give him a call tomorrow.