Audio System…please share your set up

The front stage does not sound right to me. I have the CDT wideband for the fronts and I do not think it is efficient. I am going to switch it out for some CDT HD62 which is more efficient. It may be the source and I might have to get a processor to tune it better.

 

Morel ultimo power slim 12's. Chosen because of airspace constraints and the box from Taco Tunes is a perfect 1.65cf. The subs require .8cf (each) in a sealed box so I am going to cut a plug and epoxy it into the port of the taco tunes box to seal it up. Audio signal will be captured from a PAC AP-TY14 with optical out to the ARC Blackbird amplifier. Using the PAC piece intercepts the audio prior to the factory JBL amplifier to keep the signal level as clean as possible.

 

I used the PAC PAC AP4-TY14 as well. Would be interested to see what the signal looks like from the head unit into the DSP.

 

CDT widebands should sound pretty good other than the very top end. You don’t have any DSP? What about a crossover?

 

I just saw your post with your system layout.

How are you running all this from a5-channel amplifier? No front midbass in the doors?

there would definitely be an issue with the front sound without midbass. Are running the door midbass from the factory amplifier

 

It is all passive. The front channels are going into the U-500 crossover then out to the midbass and wideband units. The rear channels go to the HD62 crossovers then the midbass and tweeters. The sub channel feeds a single JL10W6v3.

 

I do not have a DSP and I was thinking of getting a VX1000/5i. However, I want to see how your system does with those amps. I might have to think an active set up.

 

nevermind, I was able to find the A pilar wiring off the

$37 APH-TY02 Speaker Connection Harness 2012-18 Toyota Lexus w/Amplified System

APH-TY02. For some reason the tweeter would not tone a short. I made a short jumper at the tweeter wiring and was able to find the factory wires.

 

Do you have ANC (acoustic noise canceling) disabled in the truck? If not, you should start there. That can cause some weird behavior with aftermarket setups.

 

I thought I have disabled ANC but I will check it out and see.

 

It has to be through the OBD port with a scan/diagnostic tool. The Carista works well for this

 

in that case, mine must be on then. Just ordered the Carista device.

 

And turn off the damn ESE BS. So much quieter inside without that fake engine noise crap

 

I just turned off ESE and ANC. Also, I found that I had the wideband and woofers wirings backwards. However, I had ordered the HD62's and am now using the tweeters on the A pillar location with the ES-560 crossovers. The sound is so much better now.

 

That would make a huge difference! Enjoy the system now

 

I did not realize how good the system sounds until I go back to my wife’s 2024 X7 with Bower & Wilkens. I thought that system sounded good until I compare it to the system in the truck. There is no comparison now. The aftermarket system is so warm and full. For those that are on the fence whether to upgrade your sound, do it. I just want to drive my truck more just to listen to the audio.

 

A good audio system is addictive. Enjoy your time behind the wheel

 

Stuck this ( Kenwood Excelon 809’s) in my 02 , more upgrades to come .

 

Dangitman.....you went the whole 9 yards and DIY, to boot.

Much respect.




Even though my window sticker confirms there is a JBL system onboard in my truck....it just doesn't seem to be one that wakes up....or perhaps it is awake...just uninspired.

A couple of my prior trucks had manual sliding rear windows, but it was rare that I used them.

The new Tundra is different. I've had it for a couple weeks now and much of that time finds me driving with the rear window fully down and the roof glass opened. It is the most comfortable I've ever been in any vehicle that I've owned in the almost 40 years of having a driver's license. For me, it is like having the benefits of a convertible .....but without the drawbacks.

That being said, the stereo performance really falls off once the roof & rear glass are opened....not from wind noise, simply a loss of "punch".

There are two car-truck-audio-lift-level-tire-wheel-bedliner-steps-etc shops in town that many of the local car dealerships use for their aftermarket ad ons.

Both have been in business for 20 years or more.

I went by one of them yesterday. I wanted to see what the costs would be for them to address the concerns I have with this stereo's performance. The guy I needed to see was off. Going to hopefully see him tomorrow and get some idea of the costs for different levels of upgrades.

An additional amp added to the mix may be all it takes to get me there.

I'll see.



I see your post and think how cool it is that you took care of it on your own.
I know I don't have the patience to do that...I learned that the hard way with my 2017 Tacoma.

 

Recently installed four 10” subs, running off of two 800w monoblock amps being passed a signal from an active loc. Subs are wired in pairs down to 1 ohm. Tuned the system with a DD-1. They easily overpower the mids and highs if I have the gain knob turned up, but I dont drive around like that. Sounds very clean, happy with it. Plan to upgrade the rest of the system down the road once I understand more about it given the JBL amp already in place. I took pics of every step through the process, so many photos.

 

4 10’s! Go big or go home!

 

My current situation. I have a Hybrid so no under seat space. Had to glass a small enclosure for a single 12. Need to finish the box, add the amp racks on either side, beauty panel, then finish in vinyl. Getting closer but still a lot g ways to go.

 

4 10’s! Go big or go home! My current situation.