General Supercharger Thread

I've got a set of maggy green injectors here with your name on it.

 

I am pretty sure he didn't have this on a FFV

 

What's the process to force the FFV pump to always be in high pressure mode? Guy I'm trying to help has lean out issues up top with a FFV but I think the pump is in "normal mode", and I know nothing about FFV.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/supercharger-running-lean.140825/page-3#post-3548350

Post 63 I think is what you are looking for.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/#post-2608560

 

You're the man, excuse my laziness since obviously it was easy to find

 

I followed alot of fireman dan's fuel setup. He also had some good questions and posts on ffv in the hpt forum trying to bypass that setup.

 

@armyoffoo I was mocking up my relay box like your setup. One of the brake lines is a lot higher on 2nd Gen than the 2.5 and of course causes the box to be higher and closer to the hood. I'll see about ordering a brake line from a 2.5 Gen shouldn't cause issues but didn't want to be bleeding the brakes. Or just mount it higher?? I need to clean up that rats nest of wires.

 

I got my mounting bracket from t a c o t u n e s, it should work for 2007-2021, so maybe the overall height isn't that much different, just the routing?

 

Thanks. I was going to fab a bracket up but will check it out. I still have the link that you gave. Thanks again!

 

That sounds a helluva lot easier of a place to install than on the manifold.

Video makes it look pretty easy. So just anywhere upstream of the cats?

 

Hot damn....I hope this applies to my order.

 

Yep, anywhere before the cats and angled pointed up so that condensation doesn't collect in the sensor.

 

Cool. I'll go that route instead of attempting to pull the manifold.

Sniv mentioned needing to trim the sensor of the wideband when installing on the manifold. That still the case for the downpipe or no trimming needed.

Lastly, according to victors video the passenger side looked a lot easier, does either side matter?

 

I believe he trimmed down the bung that was welded into the exhaust, so that the sensor's position was more in the middle of the exhaust stream instead of at the edge. Either side is fine.

 

As @armyoffoo said trim the bung not sensor.
Weld in around 9 o'clock position on passenger side is easiest. Applied to aem and Innovate.

 

I still have the jumper where the relay was in fuse box.

 

Speaking of manifold to downpipe bolts, make sure to loosen em hot, loosen/tighten/loosen. I stripped 2 of 3 on pass side and had a major leak. Pulled the DP broke the existing studs flush, drilled em starting small to 10mm using cobalt bits and oil. Dropped in new 10mm bolts, wash, lock washers and nuts. It was a bitch that could have all been avoided

 

Let's see if this one will play nice

 

That got my attention!

 

Nice looking TB ya got there!

 

She's getting trial by fire and just did 60 miles on the interstate and next will hit the sand dunes if the idle could decide to lower faster that'd be great, it seems to drop 200rpm per restart so we're slowly getting there from 2500rpm down to 1100 currently

 

Trying to get logs and had issues with the boost signal being static, replaced with spare sensor and no change, tested connections and there is a problem with the wire going through the firewall. Previously it read clean with less than 1 Ohm resistance, now it is OL or 34 Ohm resistance. I wanted to replace the firewall grommet with a proper bulkhead fitting, so now's my chance.

**predator noises**

 

Bulkhead fittings for the win! Better than my drill/grommet/silicone. At least it's held up in our rain.

 

Round trip Phoenix to L.A. BMW motor is here.

 

Cosmetic only. You would have to mod more than the outer fender to vent anything from the bay with these.

You can see here there is no passage of air from the engine bay to the fender:
https://youtu.be/DhvWgIbiMIY?si=3yMY0Q1U02r0aNrJ

You would have to cut holes inside the engine bay to have these vents work.

 

If I ever get to it I'll be opening my hood directly above the fan shroud on each side of support to draw air out from radiator. I already bought some stainless screen.
I think 2 7x12 openings on each side of center support.

 

How's it running?

 

After a few scares Thursday & Friday going into limp mode at WOT from 7&8 massive misfires, the trip was great. It runs very strong, mileage is doubled from the old motor, still seems low though. But it is a giant brick with 295/70/18's