1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I think I’d like the Seq, that Tun was a dog.

 

NGL this is way more tempting though.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-buick-riviera-coupe/

 

I just started looking at some of the Tundras that sold on BAT. Looking at one with the 3.4/manual TC and from what I am seeing the front diff and drive shaft must stay engaged because there is no front ADD/or locking hubs, is that right?
EDIT: I guess there could be a switch in the manual TC shifter that could trigger a front ADD, Ill look at the FSM.

 

Don't lie, we all saw your OCD door panel fiasco. I say flip a coin. Speaking of which, what happened to those door panels?

 

ADD

 

@Sirfive you bringing grandpa's truck?

 

Yep. Moving into sales last year I really struggled with this. The truth is that imposter syndrome is common in high performing people. It turns out, I'm pretty good at my job but still don't feel like it some days.

@bmf4069 if they are asking you to teach, they have a good reason. I've met you. You have the right mix of people skills and technical knowledge that's necessary for teaching. You'll crush this. Fuck the self-doubt and enjoy the ride.

 

I told the head of the school that and he said he's hired people straight out of the school to teach. Basically 1st year journeymen. This March will be my 11th year with my masters after having my J card for 4. I've had my masters longer than I've been an apprentice and journeyman at this point. I know I can do it; I just worry if one of them kids comes at me with a question I don't know. Also, my ADD riddled brain does shit so different that I don't feel I'm an effective teacher.

I fully plan on teaching the math and trigonometry behind bending. Most people don't even know that. We have one particular bend called a kick 90. Let's say you need to to make a 90° bend, but drop 4" as well to hit a box. Most people will bend the 90, then hold a tape on the pipe and pull the 90 up to get 4". Well, if you do the math you can put a 30° kick in there by coming back 8" and bending on the 30° notch. I've never met anyone who does it that way. I've seen so much shit that people don't know. I'm hoping I can make a difference and teach these little shits something.

 

Exactly. I didn't put them in because they didn't match. They're just sitting in the shed of shame.

With that being said, Donut has black flooring with a beige interior, and it looks pretty good. Well, it's not an eye sore anyways.

 

@bmf4069
Starter acted up yesterday. Looks like I'm goin into surgery soon. Getting my parts ordered today. DesertDog gave me a parts list and some of this stuff I'm not sure I need...
Looks like stay away from felpro on the intakes and go OEM. Debating on the plenum... what's your opinion on that?

DD's list
Rockauto reman starter: 280-0233
Toyota: 17171-50020 x 2
22271-50042 x 1
90430-12026 x 5
16341-50020 x 2
90176-06023 x 1
23232-41081 x 1
90301-07037 x 1
90430-12026 x 4
90430-12005 x 2

 

Felpro is ok. I went oem because I wanted to make absolutely sure they were good this time.





But remember master @shifty` teachings: it's (almost) never the starter. When my daughter's tree gave me a "click", it ended up being the battery and terminals. I'd check those. If that ain't it, get a long screw driver and put it on the solenoid and give it a few wacks. You may just need new contacts or have a sticky solenoid.

 

I drew a picture of a kick 90 for reference.

 

Yeah, I just got a new battery a couple months ago, and I cleaned the shit outta the terminals and they are soaked down in FluidFilm, so that part is fine.
"You may just need new contacts" Do you mean this? KIT
I know it only seems to be when it's cold... which could in a way mean something is expanding/making a better contact?
Prob wouldn't hurt to get one of these cold spec 2kWs on hand anyway before they go NLA

 

I'm pretty sure that's the kit, but I'd let someone else chime in. That 2kw would probably be pretty good up there in the mitten.

However, with it only happening in the cold tells me there's a problem with current flow. It could be at the starter end of the cable, or starter itself. It only takes about 30-45 minutes to pull the intake so I'd say fuck it and throw that 2kw in. When you do pull it, use the vacuum port on top with a finger and put your other hand in the TB opening, then lift up and towards you.

 

When my starter was going "click" recently, multiple days in a row, it turns out it was the new positive battery terminal I'd installed a couple months prior. Apparently it wasn't excruciatingly tight, although it wasn't loose either, but it could be moved back/forth with mild pressure.

I knew there was no way in hell my starter was going out at 80k miles.

 

Get some rodent tape, wrap the knock sensor and starter wires with it while you're in there.

 

Thanks guys. I am going out here in a couple minutes to see how she starts, 23deg. I remember when I replaced the battery the ground cable looked a little sketch, and I joked about not fixing it. Got a coper lug and everything I need to address it. Think I am going to start there.
What gage are our OEM cables? I'm not going big7 on it yet, but I might address a couple, esp if this ground isn't long enough to do a repair.

 

The forbidden two tone
I don't hate it...

 

Just needs to ditch those gay patricks

 

The two tone line just need to have a little angle to it

 

But still looks like a truck trying to drive out from inside another truck…

 

What a special sight, the rarely spotted hood mounted light bar plus ditch lights pointed to the sky

 

don't forget the swamp inside the passenger side fog light. Guess they're saving that to drink later.

 

And the result iiiissssss....

 

Frame swap? Easy peasy

 

Don't hate. This shit looks gooooood.