General Supercharger Thread

Patience sometimes I can pop em off by hand or grab the outside with a fuel injector/electrical connector pliers.

$11 smilfuy Fuel Line Plier, Quick Disconnect Release Removal Tool, Petrol Hose Pipe Clamp Clip with Handle, Universal Fuel Line Clip Removal Plier, Pipe Clip Repair Tool for Most Cars (Red)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CV3NMXRV?smid=A3M4Q4OSLSFK4I

 

Do you have valve body? when I first installed IPT valve body the 1-2 shift felt like being donkey kicked, at that time I was using other tuner and no matter the update, it just feels like being kicked by a donkey, not a miniature donkey, but a full size adult jack who is in heat and you just block his access to his jenny and he's gonna give you a kick.

Anyways, Sniv used the TRD parameter I think, and the kick was reduced by good 50-80%.

Also, one thing you will notice is at idle and a/c clutch engages, the truck will try to move itself.

 

I’ve made adjustments to all upshift maps percentage wise that increase the final upshift point 5mph above the original, and only adjusted 2-1 downshift so it’s not hunting in bumper to bumper traffic. The other points I’ve adjusted are ignition efficiency and torque reduction, and they seem to play a role in how the trans shifts in many situations. I’d suggest making conservative adjustments to find where your truck likes it best. I mainly use VF Tuner and not so much HPT, so they are a bit different. Airload to torque is another that has a small effect n VFT. Again, conservative adjustments here. You need to also check fuel trims and target Lambda in these decel incidents to see what’s going on. If fueling isn’t right, or you got dirty Filter, MAF, TB, or trans fluid is low, then you’ll experience temperamental shifts. Keep in mind, Toyota trans like to be a touch over full, to about maybe a pint over. I’d check those items as you should be anyway, and then see if that cures your problem. I like how the cruiser guy said touching your trans fluid either every 30k miles or once per year. That ensures clean fresh fluid. If you haven’t been following that, then I’d recommend a drain n fill on your trans. Inspect the fluid while you’re doing that. Red or brown fluid that smells like hydraulic oil is acceptable. Black or burnt smelling fluid is a sign of trouble. Report back on what you find with this maintenance or if you’ve done all of these things within the past 5-10k miles.

 

It does seem a bit more when I'm going downhill but hadn't given it much thought.
Comparing old to new tunes gives me some insight.

 

Thanks. I'm still learning and how the ignition efficiency tables work in conjuction with torquecreduction. Also about the fill level on transmission is a practice I've been doing for a while now.

 

I’ve picked up tuning as a hobby 3 years ago and I’ve learned so much since then. Now I’m taking days off from work to get vehicles on a dyno. I’ve been fortunate to get a feel for how the machine is operating, which reduces the amount of time I need on a dyno.

 

Life goals! Nice work! Hobbies that are fun and when you can make a few dollars doing them, are the best careers/jobs! So as long as you keep smiling!

 

Have you seen Hptuner when tries to write throws a code of : "Init unit failiure" or something along that line? we were trying to write the new file, and I would get repeat message on the hptuner.

 

I think that’s the same message I got when I bricked my ecu.

 

Was that before or after write? mine was when I hit "write", it'll do the process of "processing" then "switch ignition off for 10seconds then restart and hit ok", when I did that and hit ok, that's the error message I got.

But she started with codes of like evap not ready, I was able to clear the DTC and she starts up and runs fine but not keen to push my luck.

 

I went back to see if I had taken pictures of what the message said but I didn’t. Mine got to like 34% of the writting when it got messed up. And then when I tried again it had some error message trying to communicate with the ECU. By the sounds yours is not bricked if it started. Mine would only crank and had zero communication with the ECU. I’d just pull one of the battery terminals and let it reset for a few mins and those errors on the dash should go away.

 

Have not had that.

 

Oh damn, so pulling the battery did the trick?

 

No no haha that was only to clear your codes you had. I had to pull the ECU and bench flash it with the software I have.

 

Mine started, I was able to clear the DTCs with VCM scanner, so I'm thankful on that.

Can you share how you bench flash the ECU? or a link? I don't think I'll flash it again but just in case I run into issue.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-recover-replace-ecu-thread.141787/ I have my write up on the first page but depending on year of truck will change the method of recovery.

 

Never disconnect battery that will brick the ecu during a write. You usually can write again later on.
It's most often during a write that it bricks. If it hangs up during the processing its on hpt's side. I was helping a friend the other day and it was hanging up all afternoon.
Sometimes I use a ethernet cable if the connection is slow using wifi or hot spot.

 

Correct don’t disconnect the battery during the write. I was saying if you can’t get codes to clear after the write then disconnect the battery to reset them.

 

Gotcha. But if it stops during the write and just stays at like 50% and won't go anymore is what I was referring too. But I was up way too late... saw stopped during write then another disconnect battery. I was like oh no.

 

Brought the motor home, was going to be an ordeal in the Tree so they lent me their 2001 345k Tacoma 5speed, looks like crap, works fine.

 

I may have to do that, I don't know how one file, written twice would have two different behaviours.

Say after a flash, what happens when we disconnect the battery and let it sit for 20mins, is it suppose to re-learn?

So I flash a file, let's call it File A Mr. Sniv sent me, the first time I flash it, it drove beautiful, idle beautifully, but it was tweaked a bit, let's call it File B, File B gave me issue on starting and would rev up and down during slowing, so decide to flash it back to File A, but Mr. Sniv quickly gave me a File C that's improved based on File A, when tried to flash File C, I get issue with the Init controller communication.

I'm 99% certain File A is currently on the ECM, but it did not idle the same way the first time I flashed it, what gives?

Damn, are you going to go all forged?

 

Yes, eventually. I have to get the BMW out of the garage first, pick up that motor Saturday.

 

I'm not 100% sure. I've noticed tweaking the same file over and over again can develop an issue. I know when @snivilous sent me updates to my MAF my PE would not respond. He went back and created a new file from scratch. That solved my issue. I know @Wynnded will do the same, create a new file.
You can try disconnecting the battery and then reload the new tune. It hasn't made a difference on my end but worth a shot.

 

I'm trying to help someone out load a new hpt tune.
It gets to the second process and then nothing. No turn ignition off the write to ecu. Waited 30 minutes each time.
Good wifi and mpvi3 syncs with hpt and laptop in editor.
Try beta version editor? Use a eternal cable, though he doesn't have one.
Suggestions?

 

Even if it's the same file but just flashed the second time?

 

I'd try beta version. The first official software version i downloaded would not connect, went Beta and it worked great

Alternately could be a server issue when it "phones home" to HPT.

 

Head unit hard-wired to CANbus via Maestro? Shut down unnecessary apps or services and firewall on the tuning computer?

 

This sounds silly, what's the difference between beta and normal VCM editor?

 

Beta is a newer version that hasn't been fully tested to be considered stable.

 

That's what @snivilous said yesterday. I'll have him download beta and try.