Need Help, At Wits End. Misfire on all cylinders on Bank 1

Had a knock on original engine so swapped it with a junkyard engine that just leaked coolant externally, ran just fine just with a puddle that followed me. Came into a newish engine that ran just fine and decided to swap it in after doing most of the gaskets... oh, where the problems started. I messed up and didnt install the service bolt on the spring gears, got those back in time, and reinstalled. Now im getting a P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected) and a Cylinder (Insert Number) Misfire Detected on all bank one cylinders. Its idling rough but above 2000 RPM it seems like the misfires go away and it seems stable. Ive been lurking on the forum and saw a couple other post that have had similar ish issues but to no avail (Fuel Pump, bad gas, switched wiring harnesses and ECMs). It also seems like both O2 Sensors on bank one are not reading. I have continuity tested the plugs and they tone just fine back to the ECM Plug. I have swapped Sensor 1 O2 sensor with bank 2 and it still doesnt read. I even swapped back to the engine leaking coolant just to see if I messed up the other newish engine, but at last same problems. I now turn to thy people of the forums for help before I go light this truck on fire in a ditch somewhere.

 

Perhaps the intake manifold gaskets

 

I would suggest that you revisit and make sure you indeed aligned the intake/exhaust gears dots properly and recheck front timing.

Idling rough but under load fine suggests timing Bank 1 off.
If your scan tool reads live data, showing picture of your LT/ST fuel trims and Bank 1 O2 sensor readings would be helpful info.
Also, have you pulled Bank 1 plugs to see what color they are ?
With that known and fuel trim readings, we'd probably see ECU reporting very rich condition.

 

I sprayed the intake manafold with brake clean and there was no uptake in rpms.

 

I will recheck timing oncw i get home today. As of Sunday this is what the O2 sensors on Bank 1 was doing. (Thats the only pic i have at the moment) Under load i do see bank two O2 sensors change but bank one stays at zero.(both sensors)

 

Did we start with NEW coil packs and NEW plugs?

 

First things first.

What is the year of the original vehicle?
What is the year the donor engine came from?
Did you use the engine harness and ECU from the ORIGINAL vehicle or the DONOR vehicle?
Did you swap over ALL peripheral stuff like sensors, throttle body assembly, etc.?

I'm asking the last two for a very specific reason. There are LOT of small differences in wiring between these engines. So you run into stupid crap like this for someone swapping a 2001 engine into a 2002, where Toyota changed the pinout for the throttle body actuator connection by one wire, and it can cause all kinds of stupid shit, codes, etc.

While "misfire on all cylinders" screams of something like bad timing, stretched timing belt, bad ground, or similar, it would be helpful to rule out if it's actually some stupid wiring issue.

 

I did not, the newish donor motor was junning just fine with the coil packs and plugs not a week before i took it out and did gaskets on it.

 

The original truck is a 2002 with the 4.7L (door date 01/02) the donor truck is also a 2002 with a 4.7L (door date 10/01) Ive tried swapping between both wireing harnesses and ecms. All the sensors stayed the same. Think i swapped mass air flow sensor. In regards to the throttle body I dont remeber which one i have on it. The engine that leaked coolant was from a 02 Sequoia. In regards to the timming belt I had just put a new one in when i was changing gaskets.

 

So checking the timing is going to have to wait till this weekend, supposed to get some rain the next couple of days and the work area is open to the elements. Have videos of the live data, once they finish uploading i will be posting here.

 

Check the crank position sensor wire.

 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1LivevwimczyIbINdR5MXlqrAuc13Kt8x?usp=sharing

here are the videos. Let me know if you cant see them.

 

....and Bank 2 cyl 6 & 8.
Were 6 & 8 codes recorded when you first posted

Paul Harvey....“And now you know…the rest of the story”

Will take a look at videos.

edit....for those curious about the google uploads that are huge and not wishing to download or visit. There are 8 mp4's and 3 jpg'. Two of the jpg's were same as posted above....Mis-fire 1 3 5 6 7 8. the last jpg is shown below.



edit....video update to come.....

 

Unfortinatly I dont recall, was more worried about all of bank one missing. I started this missadventure a few months ago and gave up when i put the engine that leaks coolant back in and the shenanigans percisted. Just started working on it again after a few months and swapping back in the newish motor.

 

On coolant leaks, over in the community megathread, we've provided a ton of the common coolant leak points:

• Coolant leaks: Three common causes: One is the is the gasket behind the thermostat housing, another is the coolant crossover at the rear of the block, and last but not least, old radiators is another source. Here's a list of things to check if you're losing coolant. For repairing the leak behind the t-stat housing, check this out. For the coolant crossover tube issue, you'll likely find coolant at back of the block, near where the trans and engine meet, check this reply for video/fix. This post is for leaks at t-stat housing/inlet neck. This reply contains links to three other off-brand/odbball leak cases. For radiator leaks, this is one example of a tiny one - always replace with Denso brand radiator, and know different cab types use different sizes, careful where you order, scAmazon especially tends to deliver damaged products often (RockAuto has a spotless record with forum members). Proactive radiator replacement is wise. The transmission line routes through the bottom of the radiator ... go look up "pink milkshake", it happens in these trucks.

For me, two things.

First, knowing misifiring is typically a result of bad spark, bad air, bad fuel, or bad timing, how I approach misfires would initially depend on which cylinders were misfiring. For example:

• If only odd cylinders (1,3,5,7 i.e. bank one, driver side) or only even cylinders (2,4,6,8 i.e. bank 2, passenger side), I'd be suspecting manifold gasket, fuel pressure regulator on that bank, basically anything that would cause an air leak into multiple cylinders or lack of fuel delivery into multiple cylinders. If it was only bank 2 specifically, I'd be heavily leaning toward a problem with the vacuum line that runs between the fuel pressure regulator above the passenger valve cover and intake box being disconnected, or possibly weak fuel pump; of course, if it's fuel pump, testing fuel pressure would very quickly rule that out, you need to be above 40psi to the rail.
• If it's the specific pattern of 1,2,4,7 or 2,3,5,8 I'd be looking at wiring related to the coil packs because, if memory serves correctly, that's how the coil packs on these trucks are wired, with the first and last cylinder from one bank and middle two from the other bank linked.
• All cylinders or non-sensical array of cylinders: There's a variety of things that would cause it, including:
  • Bad air/fuel (upstream O2) sensors and/or sensor wiring - if the ECU can't read the combustion mixture coming out of the head, then it won't have any idea how to set the a/f ratio, and the fact your upstreams are showing 0v at start is sketchy as hell
  • Bad or misadjusted throttle assembly or throttle position sensor and/or bad calibration and/or dirty or bad MAF and/or dirty throttle body - if the ECU can't see the throttle position sensor or it can't figure out how much air is coming in, or at idle, there's too much buildup for the throttle plate to close properly, and the ECU can't figure out the proper air incoming, I'd expect that.
  • Dying fuel pump or clogged fuel filter - if you have OEM fuel filter it's probably NOT the problem b/c they barely filter anything by design,(aftermarket is another story, they filter a lot and DO clog), again, testing your fuel pressure should be done here to kill any doubts of fuel delivery
  • Bad camshaft or crankshaft position sensors - if the crankshaft position sensor doesn't get its harness routed correctly and gets nicked by a belt, every time the ECU can't detect the sensor, it'll kill the fuel pump. The ECU uses the camshaft position sensors to forward/retard timing (via the one under the driver side timing cover), and that wiring tends to get rubbed out, when it does, it can cause misfires
  • Bad timing, this site is the best I've ever seen, originally posted by @BubbaW, and is a easy enough for my Mom to use to understand if timing is set
  • Other peculiarities, like, this doesn't apply to your case but if yours was a 2005-2006 that came with the VVTi 4.7L, if you're doing some top-end work like the cam seals, and you fail to install the service bolt once you get into the cams, you'll throw your timing permanently out of whack and get really bizarre misfire situations.

Second, the fact it goes away under load is a curious symptom which, in my experience, tends to be one of two things:

• You have a timing problem
• You have a vacuum problem

 

Yeah, as mentioned earlier, checking the gear timing he mucked with and re-checking front timing, hopefully he’ll be able to check that this weekend like he plans.

 

This one was my favorite: https://www.tundras.com/threads/multiple-misfires-after-rebuild-fixed.110071/

24 pages worth. All because he failed to install a service bolt while in the cams. It's painful to re-read and see all the suggestions we threw at him. I'd have given up by page 12. I think he finally solved it after several weeks, once we got to, like, page 22 or something.

 

Damn, that hurt my brain and remember that one very well now. He indeed did find that his gears were not timed properly. Of course as you say, we went all around the barn too many times to finally get back to beginning where he mentioned service bolt
This was the page 24 post that he made when he recognized he did not the dots up properly.

 

That made my brain hurt as well when I read it as I was lurking trying to figure out my issue... I did the same thing but went and corrected it when I read that......

And with out further ado, here are the timing pics.

 

And here are the pics of the timing dots on the driver side spring gears, one thing i did noticed is to get the service bolt in I have to take it out of time.

 

Here is the passager side timing dots on the spring gear.

 

And this is a pic of the driver side spring gear when it is in time with passager side and crank.

 

For those inquiring about what the spark plug look like... Pics in driver side firing order.

 

So interesting development, after I threw it back together after taking the timing photos I swapped the O2 Sensors side to side to see what would happen (only sensor 2) and now its only misfiring on the back two cylinders on both side. In regards to the fuel pressure I had swapped fuel pumps/tanks with the truck that i got the engine from and that it was running just fine before replacing seals. On the fuel filter I have no idea if its the original or not, I know i have never replaced it.

Link showes vids of the fuel pressure on start up and of the O2 Sensors readings on start up.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YoyMEZzMfeEvPbubbaWZVPyO43SGxnIc

 

In regards to the potential for a vacuum issue, I sprayed brake clean on each intake runner to see if any increased rpm but none did, also sprayed it on the vacuum line and there was also no increase in rpm.