Steering rack play & front suspension clunkage

Greetings! Long time reader, first time poster. Check out my new member post for a bit of background.

My 2001 SR5 4wd V8 4.7 with 220,000 miles has been making a loud metal-on-metal clunk when hitting bumps at low speeds. It can happen with any pothole or bump at sub 10mph speeds, but especially when turning right. Clunk sounds like it's coming from front left wheel area. I've been ignoring it for a couple years, and letting it get worse (I know...). I don't know what's causing it.

I put the vehicle up and found I could produce slight play in LBJ by levering tire upward with a pry bar. I am not sure that's the cause of the clunk, but given the catastrophic failures all over First-Gen threads I figure I need to replace my (original?!) LBJs with OEM ones and fresh bolts per the repeated recommendations of Shifty and others. So that will be step one. If that doesn't resolve the clunk, it clearly needed done anyway.

First question: are these the correct OEM LBJs and 8 bolts to get for my vehicle? I have searched through the extensive LBJ sticky, but if someone could confirm I've got the right parts for a 2001 I'd really appreciate it! Ourisman Toyota.




Second Question: Is it concerning that my steering rack has play? When grabbing the drivers wheel at 9 and 3 I can produce a good clunk-clunk, as if tie rod ends or other steering parts were loose. I took the inner tie rod boot off to have a look while helper shakes the tire back and forth: no visible movement in inner or outer tie rods. Instead, the roughly 1-inch shiny steel rod that slides in and out of the rack and pinion is clunking up and down within the steering rack. Don't know the word for it, but talking about the thing that the inner tie rod attaches to and slides in and out of the rack and pinion when you turn the wheel.

I read on the forum about adjusting steering rack play in older trucks and watched the Timmy the Toolman video on the subject. I opened up the "steering rack guide" which can be adjusted to reduce play in the steering rack, and was able to tighten it about 20 degrees without going too tight and making the steering wheel bind. In the photo below, you are looking into the rack and pinion through the hole where I removed the rack guide. I marked original position with white paint, cleaned and regreased, tightened it up about 20 degrees and marked new position in red.

Play seems a bit reduced. I wonder if this is the cause of the aforementioned clunk at low speeds? Either way, is this a safety concern? Do rack and pinions fail on these trucks, and what happens if they do?











I also have questions about the outer tie rod ends, lower shock bushings. But it's getting late here and I want to get some photos for y'all before I post about that. Input and answers to the two questions above very much appreciated!

 

Ourisman will confirm for you if you order. Would need your VIN to confirm definitively using the EPC / parts lookup sticky. But if you’re already ordering from Ourisman, just call them and ask or email and ask.

Clunk could be a number of things. Rule out the LBJ as the cause. If still there after, look at the steering rack bushings and the swaybar bushings as next possible culprits. That’s what I’d do at least. A lot of people fatigue their swaybar bushings by over tightening, turning them into pancakes.

I’m running on the assumption you’ve got no lift at all. No strut spacers, no aftermarket struts, this type of thing. And that you’ve checked lower bushings on the struts, UCA/LCA bushings, etc.

 

Ourisman has a section that asked me for my VIN when I was checking out. I believe it stated something along the line of "please put your vin here so we can use it to confirm part fitment for your vehicle. If you don't do this we can't guarantee fitment"

 

Thanks for the comment shifty!

OK, I will confirm with Ourisman using my VIN, order parts, and get the new OEM LBJs in there.

I have checked steering rack bushings by observing them while helper turns the steering wheel with tires on the ground - they look solid, no movement.

Next, I will check swaybar bushings and links, and control arm and strut bushings. The lower bushings on the struts do look somewhat old and cracked - I am not sure what to consider acceptable. I will get under there again soon and post photos to see what the crew here thinks.

You are correct that I've got no lift, spacers etc. - everything pretty much stock OEM.

Anyone with thoughts about that steering play in the steering rack? I sure don't want to shell out to replace it.. at least I have a few things on the list to try first.

More photos soon!

 

LBJs confirmed and ordered - step one. Thanks for the tips FishNinja and Shifty.

Now my mission is to make the front end safe and functional without going too wild. I suppose the loud clunk when hitting bumps at low speeds is trying to tell me something, so I feel like I better chase that down before something explodes. But, I'd rather not sink a ton of $$ into a full suspension rebuild if I can avoid it. Plus, I'm suspicious there may be an issue with the steering rack, so better save a couple bucks in case that needs work. If folks want to help me prioritize the list of most important items, I'd greatly appreciate your input!

• UCA and LCA bushings look fine to me
• Sway bar bushings look good visually. No play with weight on tires, but I will put the truck up soon and shake everything around with tires in the air.
• Sway bar links.. eh?
• Steering rack bushings look good. I have also tested this and don't see any play when helper moves wheel.
• Upper ball joints look good to me
• Inner tie rods do not have play (tested a couple months ago with boots off) (boots off the tie rods - I kept my boots on due to the snow

Work list

• LBJs look fine visually, but they will be swapped for OEM with new bolts as discussed. Possible clunk culprit.
• Lower shock bushings look bad, I think. Opinions?! See pics. Not leaking, it's just fluid film. I don't know how old the shocks are (original?) but I'm somewhat intimidated by replacing them. Think they need it?
• Outer tie rods don't look too bad? Last time I had the truck up I shook them - no play, but loose enough I can pivot the ball&socket part with my hand easily.
• Steering Rack - oh boy. This is the source of clunk I can produce by shaking the tire back and forth, but reduced by adjusting the steering rack guide. Is this normal/tolerable? The steering on the truck has felt just slightly loose for a while, but feels improved now that I tightened the rack guide. Still can produce a clunk wiggling the tire side to side tho..

What would you add/subtract to the list? Yesterday I got under there with a light and inspected things again. See photos below, and certainly let me know your opinions or if y'all spot things I've missed!

Note, anything that looks wet or like a leak (struts, etc.) is not leaking, it's Fluid Film. I live deep in the heart of the rust belt, although this truck luckily spent the first 16 years of its life away from salt.

 

Definitely need to replace those shocks and with LBJ off is perfect time.

 

@TenderTundie Is this some sort of optical delusion, or is it in fact a huge crack on the lower control arm LBJ socket (for lack of the correct term)...

 

Those lower shock bushings are fucked.

The swaybar rubber bushings (top of the swaybar link) are equally shot.

 

Holy shit! @w666 is right. If that's a crack, do not drive at all. If you verify that crack, the LCA is fucked and waiting to kill you. Replace ASAP in that case. I did not see that on my little phone screen.

 

I think it's just a shadow from a raised boss in the mold used. That'd be a super weird place for cast iron to crack.

 

Thanks people! @w666 good catch - that would be scary if it was cracked! I verified - it is an optical delusion. Whew

OK, so in addition to LBJs, it looks like I need to do shocks and sway bar links.

For shocks, the Bilstein 4600 seems pretty popular around here for my application. Two questions:

1. I'm slightly concerned about transferring the old coil springs to new shocks. Looks like I could get Bilstein 4600s with fresh OEM springs already installed for $520 at suspension.lifts.com. Reasonable to do, or do I need to buck up and learn to use the spring compressor tool? https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/#reviews_summary.
2. If I go with just the shocks and switch them over myself, I can get them at rockauto - $175 for the pair. Is it correct that there is no left or right to the 4600 shock - you just get two of the same part?

BILSTEIN 24185387B6 4600 shock only info:


For sway bar links I see the DORMAN SL74065XL on Rock Auto for 17 bucks. Fine to go aftermarket on these? Looks like there is no left and right, I believe you just get two of the same?

 

Yeah ... Suspension Lifts aka bilsteinlifts.com .... you should read this.
tl;dr - I'll never shop there again, and I'll never recommend them again.

Note that Colton aka @memario1214 with Hotshot Offroad is a far more reputable source with great pricing and service, and he offers pre-assembly. He's a vendor here and on Tundras.com sister site, Tacoma World. I've purchased from him in the past and can vouch for his service.

You listed a shitload of info in your truck one-liner, but sadly left out one of the most critical details: Are you 2WD or 4WD? I don't need to know if you're "2UZ-FE" or not, we know that already because "V8", why not swap in 2WD or 4WD where that 2UZ is so we never need to ask again?

Regardless which you are, I'd hit up @memario1214 and get him to quote you out on a pair of Bilstein 4600, pre-loaded with OME 2883 coils, and whatever you need in the rear. Yes, the 2883 will provide a smidge of lift, but the ride should be damn near identical to OEM, and should add no legitimate early-wear problems. You'd effectively be installing a modern version of the TRD Offroad package into your truck, if you want to think of it that way.

 

OK, thanks! I will reach out to @memario1214 per your recommendation. So glad I can get some feedback here before placing my orders and possibly regretting it...

I thought I had 4wd in the one-liner, but I may well have put it in the wrong spot or skipped it. Still getting things figured out on posting, descriptions etc. Anyhoo, I'll head in there now and clean up that one liner by replacing 2uz fe with 4wd.

Any options to ask memario about that stick to oem ride height, or is the 2883 such a slight difference that it won't even matter? As a general rule, I'm not to experienced yet so I try to stick to OEM specs with everything so I don't cause myself problems by messing with modifying ride height. But seeing as how you recommended it here, perhaps the 2883 is the most similar to OEM ride height available, or the best choice for other reasons?

 

Here's the thing. I think our trucks have an obnoxious amount of rake from the factory. The ass is so high-up in the air that they almost have a "stinkbug" stance, like a cat in heat presenting itself. It's one of my main (only real) gripes about the stock suspension.

Beyond that, knowing you're 4WD and thus would get 30-50% less lift out the 2883 than someone with a 2WD 1st Gen (due to the extra couple hundo pounds of the front diff, CV axles, etc. up front weighing things down), I personally think running the 4600 with 2883 will both improve overall performance, and correct the OEM stinkbug appearance. In reality, you may net ½" lift up front which should tame the front rake, make it look a hell of a lot less "stinkbug".

Swapping in the new struts with the added tiny bit of lift should be a no-brainer/easy, slide-right-in, as long as you detach the swaybar links before getting the truck off the ground. Obviously, replace the swaybar bushings while in there. When tightening the swaybar links back down with new bushings, tighten down until the top washer lays flat on the bushing. You never want engagement on a rubber bushing to be so much that they're bulging like this (_), ideally you don't want them to be vertical |_| either, you want to tighten until they're just starting to "engage".

And general rule of thumb, with swaybar links and rear shocks, which both have bushings on top: Never tighten them down fully to set the bushing engagement until the truck is fully on the ground. If you set the bushing at proper engagement with the truck jacked up, then drop the truck, once the weight of the truck is setting on the bushing, it's going to be squashed to hell.

 

Lots of good suggestions here. I'd say lower ball joints, struts, and sway bar links all in one go and see what you have afterwords. I'd get on those lower ball joints ASAP though, especially if they are original as they appear to be.

 

Yup, that sounds like the best plan NickB. I hope to find time for it next week, and will post back here with results. Fingers crossed I can get it done smoothly!

 

New parts are here, and I'm fixing to tackle this over the weekend! I've found that going into my projects with a plan and a "checklist" in the garage increases my success, so I searched through the forum and put together my plan (below). Please take a look and chime in with any suggestions. Am I doing things in the most logical order? Loctite application and torque specs look right to you guys? Tips? Am I torquing the proper things with truck in the air vs on the ground?

Parts to replace:

• Lower ball joints (and fresh bolts)
• Sway bar end links
• Front shocks (pre assembled with springs)
• Outer tie rod ends

The plan:

1. PB blaster all fasteners
2. Detach swaybar links (Shifty, you said to do this with vehicle on ground so I made a note to do that. Curious, how come?)
3. Loosen lug nuts
4. Raise and support front end of truck
5. Remove LBJ.
6. Remove outer tie rod end while still attached to LBJ? One less rusty fastener to deal with, since both are being replaced...
7. Count # of rotations to remove tie rod
8. Remove OEM shock/spring assembly
9. Remove steering rack bellows and inspect rack for play. Consider adjusting steering rack guide (Again) to try to minimize play / clunk in steering rack. Hopefully get away without having to replace steering rack..
10. Install Bilstein 4600s, apply generous anti-seize where lower bolt goes through metal sleeve in bushing, apply blue locktite to threads of upper and lower fasteners.
11. Snug shock fasteners, wait to torque until vehicle is on ground?
12. Install new tie rod ends, thread on same # as old ones, snug up lock nut
13. Install new OEM LBJs. Torque 27mm castle nut to 117 ft/lbs, install cotter pin.
14. Blue threadlock on four 17mm bolts that do not have cotter pins. Torque to 48 ft/lbs in a X pattern.
15. Torque tie rod nut to 67 ft/lbs, install cotter pin.
16. Install new tie rod ends, apply blue locktite, lightly snug to hold in place until I can lower truck.
17. Install wheels, snug up lug nuts.
18. Lower vehicle weight onto ground
19. Torque lug nuts to 83 ft/lbs.
20. Torque bottom strut bolt to 100 ft/lbs.
21. Torque 3 top strut nuts to 47 ft/lbs.
22. Tighten top nut on sway bar links just until bushing is like | | not mushroomed out like ( ). Tighten bottom nut.
    
23. Mark new fasteners with paint marker so I can check they don't back out over time.
24. Get an alignment.
25. Beer.

Sound good? What did I miss?


Thanks for the new Bilsteins @memario1214 ! Simple question: is there a difference between L and R? If so, how do I tell?

 

Step 26 is to de-rustify and treat that frame and accompanying components. If you love that truck, don’t sleep on the rust. It will eat it out from under you.

 

Copy that KNABORES. What do you think about cleaning and then an annual application of Fluid Film to slow down rust?

 

Cleaning, descaling and rust removal will be the hardest part. You really want to get as much off as you can, especially the flaky stuff. Then, the treatment options are many. Some go petroleum based, some go wax based. Almost anything is better than nothing, but you don’t want to use a product that traps the moisture under the coating. Fluid film is very well regarded for rust prevention. POR 15 is another. Wool wax is some people’s favorite. Regardless of choice, prep is key, then applying per the manufacturer’s instructions. Then annual at a minimum inspections and reapplications as needed.

 

Thanks KNABORES, I'll put that rust work on the to-do list.

Anyone else with thoughts about the 1-25 plan above? Missing anything?

is there a difference between L and R struts? If so, how do I tell?

Thanks gang.

 

the struts are the same. Toyota OEM uses a different spring from L to R to combat the “lean”. Not sure the aftermarket ones accommodate for that

 

Personally, beer would be much higher on my list than #25.

I use Blaster Surface Shield instead of Fluid Film, but both work the same. I would was off a lot of the dirt, and use a can or two and spray it all down before you put the wheel/tire back on. I don't see anything flaky from your photos, and based on the condition of the CV axle and the factory sticker on your brake shields, I'd bet you would be fine with a good Fluid Film/Surface Shield coating. You can coat everything but the brakes. Like my truck, HERE. Do keep in mind that the undercoating will attract dirt/dust, which is fine, but I like seeing my shiny yellow Bilsteins, so I wipe the overspray off of those.

I also have 4600s, but with the factory springs. I definitely should've put OME springs on my truck when I did my shocks, as now the springs are worn out and bottom out easily. I think you'll be very happy with the 4600/2883 combo.

Also, I'm not sure an alignment is necessary. If you're noticing odd tire wear or not tracking straight while driving, then sure. But if you're just swapping out LBJs, shocks/springs, and sway bar links, none of the suspension geometry should change enough to need an alignment. I'm pretty sure. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

This alone would put it slightly out.

 

Really? Hmm. Guess I'm wrong then.

 

It'll be close.

But slight difference in mfg tolerance will lead to toe changes. Especially if it has been aligned anytime after they've had some wear.

And toe is what kills tires fastest.

 

Got the job done this weekend!

I replaced outer tie rod ends too, so I'll definitely be getting an alignment. Planning to request this alignment per @assassin10000 recommendation:
-0.3 camber
2.8 caster
0.10 to 0.15 total toe (0.05-0.075 per side)

Overall, it went pretty smooth for my first time doing this work. Replaced shocks, outer TREs, LBJs, and swaybar links. I cleaned things up, covered brake rotors and rubber parts with some plastic bags and gave things a nice fluid filming while I had the wheels off. I torqued TREs and LBJs in the air, torqued the lower strut bushings and sway bar links once the vehicle weight was back on the wheels.

@memario1214 those new Bilsteins arrived packaged carefully and looking good! Thanks. Hopefully I got them installed on the proper side - I did not notice any difference leading me to think one was L vs R, but they both slotted in pretty easily so hopefully I got it correct?! The drivers side took a few gentle hammer taps to seat the lower bushing into the tabs, but not much force required. Seemed like everything lined up OK.

Here are some photos below, let me know if you spot anything.

 

Not saying I spot something but has that stabilizer bar link been tightened ?
Might be looking on my phone skews it.