1st Gen parts Corner of Shame - OEM minus or plus?

I was going to get moog, but if you buy OEM through the online program its was only $15 more so I went with OEM.

 

Major fail!

I bought Powerstop drums and rotors when I did my brakes recently. I've had great luck with Powerstop products in the past, they've always worked well for me. Until now. After installing the new brakes I had a terrible pulsing when braking, like really really bad. I brought the drums to a buddy of mine who has a brake lathe, and it turns out that they had more than .050" of runout!!! I couldn't believe it. Really really disappointing. The original drums with 215k on them weren't out of round at all. They were far out of spec, but still. No good.

That said, the hardware that came with the Powerstop kit was very good, stuff was just as beefy as the originals and I didn't have any issues getting stuff to fit.

 

Great info, I’ll mark powerstop drums off the list. Still OEM or bust for those.

 

I'm still using my original drums at 194k miles. No issues and no clue how long they will last.

I've mentioned before that I'm running some of the cheapest (Raybestos) calipers and rotors too. Again, no issues.

 

Original OEM rotors here with 271k miles. I’ve only changed pads once. Original wheel cylinders too. I’ll inspect during the upcoming tear down.

 

Original rotors? Or drums? Didn't you buy the truck used?

 

Original drums, I’ve replaced rotors twice

 

I’m adding the Moog Sway Bar Links. I only swapped them because I assumed they were going to be trashed, and I had to pull them anyway to add a 1/4” top plate spacer.

They have 115k on them and are 4 years old. I live on a rough poorly maintained bumpy road, they have bombed down washboard roads at 70mph, they have held up like new.

The balljoint is still very tight and the bushing are in great shape. They have surface rust, but that’s about it.

Not bad for $42 shipped. I replaced them with the new Moog links with the white bushings. We’ll see how those hold up.

 

I want to say it's the Moog sway links with zerks I hear people complain about the most? Or maybe I'm remembering wrong.

 

I just took my Moog tie rod ends off. They were serviceable. Not bad enough to not recommend. Not good enough compared to how smooth these OEMs are, or the 212k I got on my original OEMs compared to the 50k I got on the Moogs before they got sloppy. Decent temporary solution perhaps.

 

Well, here's an OEM plus, aftermarket minus/fail to share from the lowercase FB group.

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I've had 2 sets of passenger side Depo CAPA certified corner lights get moisture in them now. First one purchased 5/18/23 and then replaced on 11/2/23 under warranty and now a year later here is the passenger side again with moisture in it.


Not sure if any of the other options out there (other than OEM) are any better and I suppose I could pull the one apart and reseal if I have to.

Gonna have to be OEM minus here. Maybe just a bad batch or something, headlights and driver side corner light has been fine so far.

 

Been a while, but how did the mood sway bar links hold up?

 

Where can I get these?

Joking aside, they lasted me about 4-5 years before needing replacement. I’m on my 2nd set replaced under the lifetime warranty. Will be looking to get at least one replaced under warranty again and just buy the other. Spent this past weekend cutting the ball of the bad one out of my LCA….

 

just curious about any recommendations for the sway bar links? From what i've read on here, stay away from mevotech and Moog was decent for short term (I don't plan on keeping my '06 another 14yrs)

I did the topic search and this was the best match. thank you all for the great information, y'all have prevented me from making a few costly, repeated mistakes.

 

Suspension maxx is good

 

Stock height: https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/smx-122260t
Lifted trucks: https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/smx-122270t

Use a poly-safe lube on the bushings during install.
Do your best to keep the bottom cam parallel to the ground at install.
You may need a (14mm? 17mm? I forget) thin wrench to install.
Read the directions they provide for install so you know how to properly install.

 

And goooooold!

 

Well f&$k, moog 2 piece for the loss. 14ft/lbs torque my ass.
Didn’t want to spend extra monies for someone else to enjoy a few extra years out of ‘ol dirty red. Guess I’ll chalk this up again and listen y’all before buying….again. (I couldn’t wait for response before I bought, had a couple days off work ((shift worker)), figured easy 1 hour job)

 

Adding this link which covers NAPA Premium CV Axles which fit not-so-great, and only lasted 4yr and a couple dozen K miles: https://www.tundras.com/threads/front-differential-needle-bearing-replacement.150018/#post-3769322

Thanks @Mr Badwrench!

 

At my local Toyota those 6 items come out to $66 before tax. How necessary are new clamps? NVM it's just an extra $7... Weird that the two sides aren't identical for the clamps and bellows part numbers and the clamps differ by 47¢ in price.
Local



Birmingham



Decatur

 

Oh man that’s a bummer. I bought a no name fully aluminum radiator off of eBay for cheap and it’s been absolutely perfect the last 8 years or so.

 

I was wondering the same thing.

 

Aren't the OEM UBJ like $35-40/ea? I swore they were so inexpensive it warranted just going OEM.

 

and the Job isn’t that much fun to want to do it regularly

 

it isn't THAT bad. If you get the VERY specific Toyota ball joint tool. But even then.....I hated doing my OEM UBJ.

it's 2 months shy of a year installing my KSP UCA. It comes with an entirely different UBJ assembly. It didn't break the bank and is still holding up

so take that for what it's worth

 

I don't know. I haven't checked yet

 

I often wonder how an aftermarket UCA would handle the 2" drop. I imagine the only one that would do it well is SPC due to its camber and caster adjustability.

 

I just checked, for my '06 both sides are same part, 43310-39016 (formerly that ended in -39085). Current non-sale price (depending on your dealer's discount) is around $48.

During a 20% off sale, you're looking at ~$39.

Toyota says this p/n fits 1995-2006 vehicles so I assume it's same part for earlier years. Always verify before ordering.

 

What tool are you talking about? Must have missed that one.