General Supercharger Thread

Patiently waiting and limbering up for the VB group buy discount reveal.

 

I think the way I am going to lay it out is this... Each Item can be purchased at a discount but there will be a bundle that increases the discount as you add others to the cart. Mix and match save as you go type thing

 

So I'd be down for the pan. Didn't see it on your website but I'll buy from you since your putting on the group buy for us.

 

Front and back Jack!

 

It's not on there yet but will be. Thanks for your support!

 

Extreme and a pan for this guy too! BANZAI!!!

 

theyre def not that cheap anymore

 

another question.. full master bearing kit or mini kit?
ive only git 55k on my truck.
300 ish for both mini kits or almost 1k for master

 

They still cheap yo, well at least the backs a few weeks ago. Have 2 sets of rear 29's. Got another and Motive sent me a free set. Thought my rear main gear was bad but it was just u joints and carrier bearing.

 

Ayers and New England Gear Polishing can remove the pattern if you need to use them or sell em.

 

Have they been quiet since? Hoping to get mine in this month. Guess my future VB will have to wait though for the next shop visit.

 

They both are brand new in the box. Figure id keep one for worse case scenario, other will go to a Tundra owner eventually.

 

My set does not run silent. Have slight whistle at all rpms and coast hum at 70 down to 50. With the rear window up I can't even hear it. Windows down I sound slightly like a old school dump truck, but nothing alarming. About to change over to 85w-140 GL5 for I've hit 495 miles. Mostly for the speedmaster lsd though.

 

My rears are noisy at 55-60 but that is on me. I had a good pattern but still a little deep I should of went a few thousandths shallower. Got 1500 miles on them, the front have 510 on them and are quiet. Once it warms up Ill be swapping out the rears for a REM'd set.

 

Running 80/85-140 weight?

 

I ran both 80/90 and 85/140 still noise. I've spoken/emailed with Ken, Zuk, and have a game plan.

 

rears are $102 and fronts are $333 on Amazon

 

Me, too! Thanks again, Johnny!

 

There are those that will say they are noisy like Nitro's can be. Most shops will get a great pattern with good backlash and call it good. I did. But have whine 55-60 and decel/coast. Will be swapped out and reset.
On my fronts I had a nice pattern but thought of my rears. I went another .003 reduction from what I thought was on and they are totally silent running in awd and 4x4 locked.
Ken was saying most shops still go by a little deep is good. The 5.29 pinion has huge teeth with a lot of purchase to back off a little bit without sacrificing strength. @Silver17
Might be worth it to ask the install shop to try a little shallower than too deep.

 

Race truck parts make race truck noises!

 

I haven't done a tune, but my understanding is 'yes' (depending on the tuner)...

Basically, the truck just keeps trying to upshift to an OD gear for 'efficiency'. However, in many applications it tends to shift back and forth and does not do it very cleanly (a lot of 'hunting' IMO), which is why I'll move it to S4 if I'm towing or wanting to lock up in 4th...

Tow/Haul seems to clean it up a bit also, but not a lot...

 

I'll be going 5:29's and Powertrax once my budget recovers from the Supercharger done last month.

However, I have a lot of pause hearing how so many end up with noisy drivetrain. Have a couple shops near me who did my Hilux gears and lockers 25 years ago but it seems like evem competent shops are getting lash wrong. I'll be doing Sierra gears to hedge my bets

 

ordered the gears,
maybe ill do a master bearing kit for the rear and a mini for the front

 

Im a little late to this convo, but honestly, some of the best tech troubleshooting and progress I have made on tunes and kit development is driving it home and back in the AM. Since I am used to the drive, it allows me to really focus on the truck (or car) and tune. As I know the roads, I know where I can accelerate, I can test cold cold starts, quick off / on stopping at the gas station. Realistically, the closer you can test it to how it will be driven is always the best. As long as the truck gets back to you clean, undamaged and in one piece. I wouldn't read into it too much.

In regards to the MAF, other than what looks like some goop or something on the side, some MAF cleaner' probably a solid idea. It doesn't look different to what the MAF should look. If they do deem it failed, let me know so we can send a label to get it back and off to the supplier for testing.

Thanks!

 

I saw it Sunday, it looks fine (except that "glue"?)

I'm bringing Armyoffoo's injectors there today & will get the MAF, if you want it I'll send it, if it is good I'd appreciate getting it back, if not use it for R&D.

 

Oh, you gotta send it back to @TurboKits if for no other reason than to have peace of mind. But honestly, if Jesse is willing to send this in for testing to rule it out, that's good for him, good for all of us running that product, and good for you to put that question completely behind you (and maybe some ammo for a refund on any of those expenses from the shop?).

I'm still really hoping you can get this sorted out quickly. Your situation is my worst nightmare heading into my own swap. You'll figure this out!

 

Looks like I celebrated too soon...got a couple codes yesterday and today, P0102 and P0174. Probably a vacuum leak since I touched/adjusted every vacuum line on the truck with this project. Truck is idling and performing very well, and was starting and idling without issue before yesterday's CEL (still ran great after code). I ordered a smoke machine to identify the leak, if that is the issue. Also going to clean my MAF sensor and fuel filter as a precaution.

P0102 - Yesterday (first start of the day, popped immediately) - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit low Input
P0174 - Today (idling at red light, system fully up to temp) - System Too Lean Bank 2

 

Boooo, I was thinking maybe I have a vacuum leak, hoping (not optimistic) it is the injectors.

I got this cheap smoke machine for the BMW, works well, but get the right oil for it.

$66 Solary Automotive Smoke Machine Leak Detector - 12V DC EVAP Vacuum Diagnostic Tester for Pipe System

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C7MKZPK3?ie=UTF8

I used this

$17 Smoke Fluid Solution for Automotive Smoke Machine Testing - Made in USA - 8oz Liquid Smoke Refill Designed for Automotive Testing - EVAP, Vacuum, Fuel, Intake, Exhaust, Turbo Systems & Super Chargers

https://www.amazon.com/Smoke-Soluti..._csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM=

 

I looked at that one first, per your recommendation actually, but purchased this one. It can use baby oil as replacement.

$90 AutoLine Pro EVAP High Volume Smoke Machine Leak Tester with Built-in Air Pump - Shop Series Plus - Automotive Smoke Tester for Vacuum Leak Detection - Ceramic Smoke Coil and Best Ranked Smoke Fluid

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2JV8YDP?th=1

 

Looks cooler!

Please let me know where you connect the hose. If I get the Sequoia back having issue I'll be wanting to check.

I sprayed maf cleaner around the engine last week and saw no changes in idle but that's an imprecise test.