Do you change your own oil in your Tundra?

What’s wrong with a regular drain plug? It takes at most 40 seconds to remove. Some people overthink it. I also don’t trust those aftermarket plugs—what if they leak oil or get damaged while off-roading? There’s a reason OEMs don’t use them.

 

I never torqued the drain plug on my 2010 Platinum Tundra and never had to replace the plug or washer. It never leaked, and I sold the truck with 338,000 miles—still running excellent. People tend to overthink or worry about things that aren’t important. What really matters is changing the oil on time and replacing brake pads before they ruin the rotors, rather than obsessing over the exact torque for a skid plate or drain plug.

 

The Fumoto drain valve isn't about having to retorque or remove a drain plug, it's about preventing a mess. There isn't a person on here that's done their own oil change that hasn't made a mess because the drain plug hasn't caused a problem one time or another. I like clean. Plus, I also do oil analysis and the Fumoto valve makes it so much easier to collect the sample. And I've owned several Fumoto valves over the years on many vehicles, I've yet to have one leak, so I trust them completely.

 

My experience also, to the letter.

Someone earlier (was it OP?) worried about the threads on the Fumoto extending further/longer into the drain pan, keeping additional oil behind in the pan.
I distinctly remember comparing the two, original plug versus Fumoto, before screwing the Fumoto in. I didn't measure them, but the eyeball said "close enough."

As far as potential for damage offroading:
If you are doing any offroading, chances are good you have a skid plate.
If you manage to damage or break off the Fumoto valve, you have taken a SERIOUS hit that likely has done other damage as well. The OE skid plate is stout enough to lift the front of the truck. Can't speak to aftermarket.
I wouldn't run one without a skid plate. They are exposed to damage otherwise.

 

True…I tend to be over obsessed with stuff like that. That’s the aircraft mechanic in me. Every bolt gets traded by hand, backed off by hand then torqued. At least on drain and fill plugs. Skid plate I just snug them up.

 

The earlier point was made that when you remove the factory plug, there are no longer threads inside the pan to prevent all the oil from draining completely. One poster said, when he removed his Fumoto valve, a significant amount of oil was still in the pan.

Then someone said there is a nut welded inside the pan that actually dictates how much oil can drain. I guess it comes down to how thick is the welded nut, and how much of the threads of the Fumoto valve stick up above it, if any.

Then there is the sentiment that a little bit of old oil left in the pan doesn't harm a thing. I get that too.

I've been changing my own oil for 50 years without a Fumoto, and I've never had a problem with excessive messes. A large catch pan, a piece of cardboard, and an old towel is all I ever needed. At this point, I doubt that will ever change.

 

My F150 had a drain plug that was at 90 degrees to the ground. Talk about a PITA to guess how far it would shoot laterally so you could position the catch basin. Add any wind into that and it was even worse.

Here's a question based on past evidence. Is the 2024 tundras oil pan metal or some type of composite? Hopefully the former.

Lastly and just for the record, does anyone know if there is a nut inside the oil pan by drain plug & true depth of nut? It would make sense that if there is, that the drain pain at the drain plug would be convex outward so all the oil would go to the lowest spot, thus negating any residual oil issues when draining. Just food for thought.

 

My oil pan is metal.

 

Oil pans are metal, and no "nut" per say in pan, but instead a metal reinforcement that's spot welded on inside for strength & threads for drain plug. Not nearly as thick as an actual nut.

 

Actually, I've never used one until now (been changing my own oil since about 1975) and only decided to try the Fumoto based on reading posts here. As others have stated, decreasing chances of a mess sounded like a plus to me. I don't do any offroading so that's not a worry for me. I'd agree that at least one reason OEMs don’t use them is the potential for them causing issues. And if I don't like it, I can always put the original back in.

 

Agreed.
What people seem to forget, or don't know, is that it's a 10+ quart oil system.
We're all leaving behind roughly 2 quarts of old oil at every change as it is. This is nothing out of the ordinary and is not specific to the V35-FTS.
Whatever fraction of a quart MIGHT be added to this amount due to an additional thread sticking up (IF it does) doesn't mean jack.

 

Plastic Oil Pans…let me guess, the drain plug is a cork?

 

Surprise, the drain plugs were also plastic! I never had an issue with my plastic pan, they tended to leak, but many did. I guess I got the best one ever made. I found it for sale about a year ago at a dealer. Per the Carfax, that pan was never replaced. I like to think my stellar self-maintenance made the pan feel safe and it didn’t need to cry, I mean leak.

 

I’m not sure how thick your nuts are but it’s not an insignificant amount of material.



There are posts on the old forum where members indicate they had 2 cups of oil remaining in the pan when drained using the OEM plug. They determined this by removing the pan after draining.

 

Manufacturers wouldnt do this as it would cost more money for the product with little to no gain for them.

For me, every one of my vehicles have one. Tunda has it with the RCI skid plate. I dont remove the skid plate to change the filter as it has an access door.
(something the manufacturer could have put in too, but for them removing a few screws and dropping the plate is ok with them)

What I really like about the values is being able to get that oil blazing hot and I can drain it without spilling anything and/or burning my hands up on the windy day. (using a hose connected to the valve)

Does it drain out slower? Maybe... but with the oil being so fluid when its hot... doesnt really matter.

 

Question on best position or orientation to drain Tundras oil.

The Ford F150 has the drain plug towards the back side of the oil pan (back side means away from engine). When driving it up on my ramps, that orients the max amt to drain out of pan since plug is on the lowest side of pan.

Question on Tundra: Since i have never been under my Truck, is there a "best position" to have the truck to drain max amt of oil? Furthermore, I'm 6'4" 225, so i need some clearance. I heard someone state they drive up on 2x4's on one side to help elevate tundra. Does anyone else have some insight on both the best position to drain max oil & provide some wking space underneath the truck? Note, my tundra takes 7.7 qts; my 2015 F150 took 6qts. I'd add 6 qts ea time while also changing o-filter.

Finally, and to keep things in perspective, i'm not sweating 1-4oz deltas either way. But, having the proper wking space underneath is critical to me.

Thank you all for your continued help & suggestions. Best, tstex

 

I don't really understand the need to get 0W-20 oil blazing hot to drain it. It's already the consistency of water when cold.

I've got the el-cheapo felt/paper/whatever its made from skip plate on mine. IMO, you shouldn't have to take that shit off to access the oil filter.

And that silly catch can that requires a tube connected to it to prevent filter spillage is also kinda dumb.

 

Best position? Short answer: front wheels elevated. The height of typical ramps.
I think you might be splitting hairs that don't require splitting.

For comparison, I'm 6'2" /230, typical dad bod w/ a gut. With stock 265/60/20's (32-1/2" tall) tires, when up on the Rhino ramps and the spoiler in service position, it is a little tight getting the skid plate off, and clearing the lowered spoiler. It's not terrible by any means.
I will be gaining some additional clearance in a couple weeks when I swap over to 35's.

 

Same here, 6’4”, 230lbs and I fit easily under by driving up on 2x4s.

 

Thanks black & silver, appreciate it!

 

Pics of cleaning lady?

 

And the reason is money.

 

My Tundra isn't due yet, but I did change oil today in my Hellcat. Doing your own maintenance is a good thing.

 

What's a Hellcat...and why is it relevant to a Gen 3 Tundra thread? Or do you just like flexing?

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/DFA_q8vy1Fl/?img_index=8&igsh=c2JiNTgzZDlld3Nv

 

I don't do Instacrap, but I'm guessing your link is to pics of a high-dollar sports car, that you can't actually enjoy the "sport" aspect of...legally... on public roads.

Am I right?

 

I'm just adding "changing your own oil". But I'll gladly remove it since it's not a 3rd gen Tundra.
Was just making a point to anyone "on the fence" about doing their own maintenance. It's rewarding, and saves alot of $$$!