What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

when i was little thats how my mom would drag me through the store shopping for school clothes… be a little more accurate if your truck had open headers.

 

You couldn't hear them over the rubber squeal anyway, lol

 

Careful with that. If you rub thru the mudflap, which you eventually will, there's a pinch weld on the other side of the very-thin inner fender liner.

I made a thread on how to trim down the larger plastic flaps, here.

But here's the thing. Your pinch weld is right behind the inner fender liner where circled. You see how shiny mine was? That was after, I dunno, maybe 3-4 weeks of running 285/70r17? A week later it busted through and the pinch weld started eating lines into my tires every time I backed out of the garage. You can apparently drop the mudflap, unbolt the inner fender liner, hammer or bend the pinch weld out of the way, re-secure the fender liner, then take a heat gun to re-mold it out of the way to a point it won't rub. But ... just be aware: It doesn't take long for this process to happen, especially if you remove the mudflap or modify it. Nobody wants to hafta replace a $275+ tire over some stupid shit like this. Fortunately, mine were used and the pictured tire was at ~50% tread.

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No.7! That stuff is fucking awesome.

 

Cleaned my MAF & throttlebody. I was gonna polish the air tube & airbox lid, but the protect-all didnt change the grey spots, so meh, but i had an idea. I cleaned my air filter, and what if i got a paper filter for the truck to learn on, then swapped to my lightly misted k&n? Think there’d be enough difference to make a difference?

i can be the judge.

cant find my k&n oil, my airfilter is gonna catch dust with olive oil this month.

 

Yeah, it ain’t cheap, but they work so much better than other products that you’re essentially buying in bulk.

I wash my Fiat every week and the tundra every other week in the summer. I go through one bottle of soap and one bottle of wheel cleaner, total of $35. Still feels like you’re getting ripped off a little bit when you order 4 or 5 products and your total is over $100.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye on it. eventually when the weather gets better I'll get in there and smooth things out.

 

I did exactly this. Cut and hammered pinch weld behind the liner, reinstalled the liner and then used a heat gun to mold it down to the new shape. Barely if ever contact it now with my 33s

 

Warm water and soap on those sticky frank n beans will attract more ladies. Or so I've been told. Hasn't worked for me yet.

 

Those Ray10s look solid. did you go with -10 offset?

 

Self clearancing tires.

 

Yes they are -10 fit perfect

 

Cleaned up now

 

My truck is lucky if it gets washed once a year.

 

Drove it to fill the tank before the tariffs spike the price. In@ $2.85/gal.

 

@shifty` i think my tires are too small what were you saying about 275’s? Do they make any that aren’t load e?

 

Yeah my trucks are the same and I couldn't tell you the last time soap was involved.

But we were talking about our rusty nuts.

 

You still have OEM bumpstops??
Plus 650lb coils on your big girl... Yikes

 

Not for long….

 

Removed the stupid spacer lift on the front end tonight. I hate them more now than before. I was thinking my struggles with getting the strut bolt out and the upper ball joint wanting to rub on the spring was because maybe the spacer changed some geometry. But after searching threads and reading a bit more, sounds like it’s a normal wrestle.

Had I known, I would have waited to get the spacers out until I do all the other front end stuff. I’m a noob, and was thinking it would be an easy in/out to get rid of the spacer. The strut assemblies I’ve done on Hondas were simple like that.

I ended up slightly damaging the CV boot clamp on my first go. Stupid mistake. (pic below). I’ll need to keep an eye on that axle.

I ended up taking off the LBJ bolts and disconnecting the sway bar end link to get lots of movement. I’ve read other posts about a bottle jack at the UCA. A lot of wasted time in some sense, but I learned a lot of valuable lessons and really enjoyed it.

My biggest struggle was getting pressure off the strut bolt. Other vehicles I’ve been able to easily manipulate with bottle jacks, but I must have been missing something because I could not manipulate it correctly. I read a lot of good threads AFTER I finished tonight.

Can you guys confirm that reversing the direction of the strut bolt is acceptable/preferred? I’m not convinced. Plenty of clearance? I’ll be doing it all again shortly when I start replacing components on the suspension.

 

Speaking of bumpstops, Anyone running

$15 Energy Suspension 9.9101G All Purpose Bump Stop - Pack of 2

Energy Suspension bump stops.

 

Atta boy

 

Did the small ones I gave you fit your truck?

 

Yea, had to swap in some longer bolts.

 

I can't zoom in enough to see who makes it. It's a buffing compound? I need to try something for the hood on the RAV4. It has some haze in the paint I haven't been able to buff out. Not clear coat failure thankfully, just age.

 

I didn't know this.

 

Better upgrade those bumpstops if you haven't already

 

If you read the reviews someone said that they don’t fit a first gen tundra. The threads don’t match. But the one below says if worked on their 2002 sequoia. Either one person’s threads were stripped or the second person stripped their threads.

 

I left my strut bolts in the original position without issue. To get an over length strut in or out, you need to unhook the sway bar and the LBJ bolts and use a prybar to get the LCA to flex further down than the bushings want to let it. You can loosen the LCA bolts, but that is easier said than done depending on rust condition. Also messes with the alignment, but you’ll need a new alignment anyway now. I was able to replace my struts without loosening the LCA bolts. However, if you’ve drastically changed the ride height in the front, the LCA bolts should be loosened and retourqed after the truck is back on the ground so the bushings are not in a bind. It would be minor, but probably prolongs the life of the bushings.