What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Agreed, unless it's making noise, or you're already going to be in that area fixing other stuff anyways, I'd let it ride.

 

Grease sling is normal; see community megathread. Not a huge deal, wipe away and monitor for more. I can link up info on the good NORMA worm drive clamps to replace those Oetikers if you need it. @ToyotaDude did a great job of laying out all the part numbers.

Wheel weights... been there, done that. Some techs don't clean the wheel enough for the adhesive to stick. Happened to me, also at Discount tire. I noticed 3 weights starting to peel off. The technician basically stacked three sets of weights on top of each other. LAAAAAME. This is why I tell people coming here and complaining about sudden vibrations around 60mph to pop off wheels and check weights. They can and will fall off like that, abruptly.

I'm sad to inform you, I don't think that's your pan gasket that's leaking. Oil pans very rarely leak on these trucks w/2UZ from what I've seen on here. I'm thinking that's actually a seal, either crankshaft seal or possibly something in the oil pump? I suspect it's leaking out the backside of the oil pump housing, but hope I'm wrong. I'd use some degreaser to clean it up and really look around up in there to see if you can figure out where it's coming from.

 

1. As I suspected, thanks! I have the Toyota style band clamp tool. Guess I'll look into my box of bands and go from there.

2. Funny thing was, the adhesive was stuck to both the wheel and the weight, it looks like it was torn, or possibly cut during install such that it was tearing off. We're also brand new wheels so not dirty per-say.

3. Dang. I guess I'll clean and consult the FSM for diagrams. Does seem like oil pump and importantly the crankshaft front oil seal are right there.

 

Here you go!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

 

#2 can happen when the wheel gets lifted up for install; if someone accidentally smacks the wheel weights on the rotor or caliper during wheel install, they'll rip off. That's 90lbs of weight on a wheel with oversized tire, being shoved onto the hub. Think about it.

I've gotten in the habit of checking my weights any time a shop touches my truck in a way the wheels need to come off. I also make a point of cleaning off all excess wheel weight adhesive from my wheels before install, or after balancing, so I can clearly see if a weight got ripped off.

These are good habits to get into. Given the number of people who've come here with simple tire balance problems, "I just got them balanced!" only to find their wheel was out of balance, or needed road-force balancing ... it's clearly a common issue.

One of the shops I go to (not Discount Tire) uses shiny black wheel weights that have a grey putty-looking adhesive, and I prefer that stuff over the foamed-back shits DT uses.

 

Swapped out my plugs and PCV valve. The PCV valve wasn't too bad, still giggled but not as good as the new one. The plugs were interesting, ran good, the electrodes still looked fine but they've been in there awhile. Last record I have of them being replaced was at 93K miles, it's now at 215K, so that seems to look about right. Whoever replaced them used was too much anti-seize because they were a little gummed up and sticky coming out, luckily I didn't run into any issues with the threads. They were replaced with Iridiums, not sure what it came with originally but I ordered them from Toyota by VIN so I guess they are supposed to be standard copper.

 

Jealous of your screw-in PCV. I get so scared I’m going to drop bits of rubber into the motor every time I remove mine.

Actually, can 00-02 and 03-06 valve covers be swapped?

 

How do you remove it? I just pull and twist at the same time and it pops out. The trick is getting a good angle for the twist. That dried up foam protector disintegrated on me. Tossed it.

 

Mine always removes just fine, but I'll never get over the fear of the rubber grommet breaking into a million little pieces.

 

Mine isn’t that dried up. I guess I can’t relate. I do remember someone mentioning that if it did fall in, you can still get to it by pulling the valve cover.

 

Cleaned and lubricated the TC uniballs

 

What kinda lube did you use?

 

WD40 brand dry lube

 

I swapped out my LCAs with OEM replacements. Whatever was on there definitely wasn’t OEM. Funny thing is the truck seems to be sitting higher with new LCAs. Is that possible? Could worn bushings cause the old LCAs to sag?

I’ve replaced LCAs on 3 different vehicles and this was the smoothest it has ever gone.

 

Yes. Happened to me and was the reason the alignment place couldn’t get my alignment to zero camber. Best was -0.5.

 

You drive it yet?
Mine always has to settle after I jack up the front end. Mine will be like 2" higher at first, before it settles

Or did you tighten the LCA bolts with wheels on the ground or in the air? Everything I've seen says on the ground is the way to go. I'll be doing my Solo LCAs and cam eliminaters soonish. It'll be my first time messing with LCAs myself.
On my other truck I just had a shop press out the old bushings on the uppers and lowers and replaced with poly.

 

That makes me hopeful. Ive had trouble adjusting my coilovers and the front sitting low. Now it’s looking high, but I haven’t let the suspension settle. I’m gonna take it for a spin first and see if it settles.
And I’ve had a little rubbing cuz I don’t think the alignment is right. Fingers crossed that this fixes those things.

 

Only a back and forth in the driveway. Probably not enough to settle it. I tightened the LCA bolts with it off the ground. The FSM didn’t say anything about it being in the ground and I couldn’t remember if it was supposed to be weighted or unweighted… And as I type this I seem to remember weighted being the recommendation. So, I’ll try that tomorrow morning and drive it around and see what happens.

 

Adding some "free" sliders

 

Jack the front end back up
loosen the LCA bolts
Lower the truck back into the ground
Torque the LCA bolts with the trucks weight fully on the suspension


When you tighten any suspension fasteners like these, do it with the weight on the suspension. Tightening them with the truck in the air and the suspension cycled down freezes the bushing in the down position, instead of the “resting” position. The bushing will then get over rotated with every cycle of the suspension and tear through the rubber quickly. Your likely sitting higher due to not settling and due to the LCA rubber bushings resisting the over twisting force that is being applied to them now.

 

I don't want @shifty` to yell at me again, but this is exactly why I still haven't changed mine. Even though I probably should.

 

The warnings are real. Did mine at about 290k. It was a shit show of swear words and needle nose pliers and tweezers.

 

What is this PCV valve you guys speak of and when and why should these be getting replaced?

 

I'll try that this morning and take it for a spin to get it settled.

 

The last few days my ignition in the sequoia is getting hung up, almost like when the steering wheel is locked but it's not. Do I just need to replace the ignition cylinder or could it be something else?

 

I would try to lubricate the tumblers first

 

Great idea, thanks!

 

If lubricant doesn't work your key could be worn. Do you have other keys to try?

I'm always surprised this isn't a bigger issue, I've had 3 toyotas that have had the ignition cylinders replaced. One of the keys that came with my truck is all bent up and PO said it stopped turning but I never hear of anyone having this issue.

 

Is the key worn down? We've had to replace the key to my truck twice because it's worn down over time. Some dealerships have key cutters and can cut you a new one based on your VIN. Then you can go to the hardware store and get cheap copies for like $3. I think I have five keys to my truck.