1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Need advice on what to do here.

Both of my rack bellows, inner tie rods, LCA bushings, and springs are shot. They all need to be replaced. I'm thinking of replacing them in two phases.

Phase 1:
Bilstein 6112s
Spring isolators
total- $900

Phase 2:
Inner tie rods
rack bellows
cam sleeves
LCA bushings
alignment
Total: $400-800 (depending if I can press out the old bushings or not)

But which do I do first?

It's really awful to drive right now because the springs are so worn out. Literally every bump is a bottom-out, and I really worry about causing excess stress or wear to other components. I'd really enjoy driving it more if it didn't ride like shit. A big part of me wants to do the 6112s first, just to make the truck usable until late spring/early summer when I can do the rest.

On the other hand- I worry about damaging the steering rack since the bellows are destroyed. I also worry about wearing out my new tires, I know that the alignment is off. I'd hate to put it off, and ruin my tires or kill the steering rack. I don't really want to do just the tie rods and bellows, because they'd have to be removed again to get the control arm bolt out. I only want to pay for an alignment once.

Let me know what you guys think.

 

I have rebuilt a few muscle cars control arms. An air chisel works wonders for removing them. Have used a large vise and some sockets to press them back in.

 

Your bottoming out is likely not worn springs, but worn shocks. Shocks slow the motion and dampen it. With no dampening, you just pogo stick around.

 

Shocks were brand new 18 months and 15,000 miles ago. Shocks are good. I can tell because it's firm on little bumps- when the shock is doing much of the work. But on larger bumps when the spring takes most of the impact force, it just goes straight to the bumpstop. It also sits a lot lower in the front than it did two or three years ago, especially on the driver's side.

Before I replaced the shocks, it would do the pogo stick thing. Bounce between full extension and full compression. Replacing the shocks two summers ago fixed that problem, but only made the worn out spring problem worse.

Edit: at this point, the shocks might be toast too. Either way, the springs are a quarter century old and have 219,000 miles on them. They're due.

 

I was thinking of using this method:


If that doesn't work I'll probably just buy new assemblies.

 

What shocks did you use? I’m still on my original springs btw

 

Bilstein 4600s. I really doubt they could've worn out in 15k miles. If the springs were good, that is.

The original 4600s lasted nearly 200k!

 

Yeah seems odd

 

Either way, they're getting replaced with 6112s.

I just need to figure out if I should do 6112s or LCA/tie rod/bellows/alignment first.

 

The finish isn't nearly as durable as OEM also seem to be a little looser than OEM.

 

They may bend the arms doing it that way. I recall someone somewhere saying something about using that method. If I find the conversation, I’ll post it later.

I would definitely invest in the 20-ton press and plates needed because it’s only a matter of time before wheel bearings are going to get replaced.

 

Something is definitely wrong with Ravioli. Showing 12-12.1V Not sure if it's the battery or alternator. The battery is still under warranty. I'll have it tested tomorrow.

 

Did the low voltage warning light go off on the dash? Might be your alternator if it’s not getting up near 14v when running.

 

You can drill them out. It’s time consuming but not messy. I’ve drilled out many bushings

 

No the light is still on. Would be crazy lucky timing on my part since my new alternator got delivered yesterday. I wasn't planning to install it this soon but may have to.

 

Definitely get the battery tested as you suggest. Driving around all night on a faulty alternator is what killed my battery. Acid was all over the top of it and most of the battery fill tubes were 3/4-1/2 empty. Dealer gave me a new 27F for $80 after warranty.

Now you can have the fun of changing out the alternator in this wonderful winter weather!

 

I've got a big ass garage. It doesn't get below 50 inside. That's why @jpink always comes over to mooch off my space.
@Tundra2

 

You get free beer out of it I hope?

 

I got a big pole barn and it rarely gets above 50 inside. If i don't keep moving i'll freeze to death.

 

I use my FILs shop. Has a mini split in it now. Almost broke a sweat changing my oil and rotating tires today.

 

me in my driveway... fu

 

Exactly this. Direct-pressing on the sleeve won't deform the sleeve. Wedging a jack in the arms will push the arms apart.

 

Speaking of cold, I need to call the asshats that installed my furnace. My heating bill is up $50 and my heat is set to 62-65F for most of the month. Apparently the hot air escaping my ductwork is heating my unfinished attic because there’s a gaping 1” crevice where they tried to fit the new duct into the old duct and it wasn’t sized right so they covered it in insulation that they didn’t even tape closed. Hacks!

 

I’m curious if anyone has tried this method to remove the LCA bushing here? Seems to be a lot less stress on the arm than just using pure mechanical force. @FiatRunner

https://youtube.com/shorts/IhzEkSnkKNU?feature=shared

 

Yet again, another reason to never let anyone touch damn near anything anymore because they DGAF.
99.5% shit when it comes to any service you need now days.
They should pay for your additional expense on your heating bill.
Did you notice your roof in that area was nice and clear of snow?

 

Holy crap, you’re right. Although, all along the peak of the roof there isn’t any snow but definitely more around the furnace area.

 

Only looking at the picture, not the video, it appears he has a steel plate bolted to the core of the LCA, which would help with that part not stretching. I still wouldn't trust it. I've bent large cast iron C-clamps with less force than that jack would generate. I wouldn't do it.

 

I’m still going to give it a try, just because new bushings are so much cheaper. If it doesn’t work- then I’ll get new arms.

I’ll measure the distance between the bushings accurately beforehand, and keep measuring while trying to pop them out. I think if I do what that guy did, and keep consistent pressure on the bushings while applying heat, then it can work. Not going to go ham with the bottle jack.

The cost difference between new bushings and new assemblies is big enough that it’s worth the risk to me. If I tweak the LCA, I’ll get a new one, but right now I’m making $100/week. Don’t want to spend a lot of money if I don’t have to. Plus I’ll document it thoroughly and be a guinea pig for the rest of us.

 

Do they go in a lot easier than they come out? I sure wouldn’t want to use heat against the new bushings myself to get them in there. Maybe the outer metal sleeve is good enough to protect and not cook the rubber portion?

 

I'm afraid that's only true with pregnancies