General Supercharger Thread

I think there were a few rebuilt injector options that look stock (same tan color) vs the trd green ones. My precision 750s are black I believe and have an obvious wiring harness. I would doubt that’s the case with these SC asking for tunes though, likely lazy techs doing the install.

Now you got to wonder if the fuel pump was replaced too haha.

 

Magnuson 1900’s in both of these instances.

I know the base Harrop kit comes with no injector.

 

Whoa, interest peeked... Please let us know as well!

 

Just dropped off my 21 for Magnusson 2650 install.

 

Good luck wiping the smile off your face for a month! It's going to feel like your first girlfriend made you feel!

 

So those with the DW FPR what setting do you have it on and is it contributing to any issues on your build?

 

Those with the AFR oscillation are you all running LTH?
What are the fixes?
Raise idle?
Move O2 loc?

 

Nope no issues set at stock psi

 

What are you seeing as oscillating afr? Afr will normally bounce back and forth within a range of course at idle, normal driving. During wot should hit the commanded afr etc

 

I have mine set to the stock pressure currently, or as close as I can get it with the gauge. I still have a couple odd things that I'm wanting to try to find the time to dig into, but nothing that I can definitively say are caused by the DW FPR. The odd things are buzzy fuel lines on a warm start that go away after about 30 seconds, which may be that they're loose somewhere I can't see without taking off my cat shields. The other thing is I started having the occasional longer warm crank, but it's as of yet not needed a second crank to start. It's always starting on the first try. I just haven't had the time to really dig into the issues to find the root causes. They may not even be related, just coincidental.

 

It will be there a month tomorrow, but the body work is done & the motor is finally out.

 

It is just a general question to understand what is normal operation and what are indicators of potential problems.

 

@armyoffoo Any updates on the runner spacer?

 

Not much to update, no issues since I got my belt alignment sorted. Truck has been running great.

 

My AFR oscillates when idling in Park, running ARH long tubes, not sure of a fix but also not sure it's a problem other than an irritant...maybe fouling the plugs? Like I mentioned before, I had LTH before the supercharger and didn't experience this, it started acting this way after tuning for injectors with the SC installation.

 

Lth, referenced for 43-55psi under boost. Afr at idle 13-14.6. Primary O2's about 12 inches from manifold, wideband about 20 inches.

 

I found one of the logs showing the AFR swings, only happens when in Park, Idling, under 160*, my sensors are in the collectors pointed at the collector...which is not ideal from what I've seen. Fuel pressure is boost-referenced at 43.5PSI base (MPVI2.2 in pic). This log was also taken when I had the vacuum leaks that I recently fixed...I really need to get a fresh one.

 

Is anyone else logging both Narrow Band O2 sensors, and are you seeing similar? Long Tubes or not.

 

I'll dig one up.
**Nevermind me! It's just a jagged signal! No oscillation so disregard...

 

My last log they did the squiggles like that for a few seconds, and the rest of the log they matched each other pretty closely. FWIW, the wideband oscillated in little waves that followed the EQ#2 squiggles

 

Mines setup like this too and get the oscillation at warm idle. Cold idle is perfect AFR so the engine can obviously idle “correctly”. I believe my front 02s are at the collectors, back 02s past the cats and the AFR gauge on one of the primaries.

I may experiment with switching the 02s to the primaries so they are closer since there is no “distance” tune adjustment available to us.




Looking at HP tuners again there is a separation of idle vs non-idle closed loop, so we could push the closed loop idle parameters so that you are never in closed loop at idle, while theoretically using closed loop for all other situations. For example making the LTFT airflow min idle way higher than possible during idle I would assume could accomplish this. Or make the min idle values very high.

 

Space out the Park Idle and the Gear Idle targets so they fall into different cells within the MAF voltage scale, then adjust the voltage to bring the trims in line. Most likely its fighting trims learned in gear - vs - in park, so it's constantly learning up and or down at the same spot. I know it doesn't make sense, as in gear it should be under a different load, but I have seen this on a few trucks and spaced out the P idle and the D idle and had success.

 

My poor GX motor

 

Happy things coming though, right?!

 

Hopefully no more oil leaks when we're done. On my second leak now. Shop owner, who I'm close with, wanted to just pull the motor and re-seal absolutely everything possible to avoid more in the future after fixing the current one.

 

By far, the best way to ensure it's as tight as a frogs ass!

 

Just how I like my asses.

Between this and the brand new tranny... I'm hoping this is the end of it and this thing goes on forever.

 

Anyone know of a Geared Rotating Head add on for a standard engine stand that can keep up with a 3UR-FE ? Not looking forward to dealing with the motor in the normal fixture.

 

My friend has one that came on a stand from HF and he had a Duramax on it and said it handled it fine

 

I have seen that on their stands but don't see the rotating part alone. I got the idea from I do cars tear down videos, he has a HF stand with it.