One thing after another

Bubba is correct. Here is the hose routing on my 2000. @Moonminer - what you have is the vacuum hose bypassing the PS valve which is normally closed creating a vacuum leak which cause an unstable idle.

 

@Shifty -I don’t believe there is any directionality to the ports on the PS valve and either way image is correct. I encountered that when replacing PS hose recently.

 

For now my thoughts also but will say that the end of hose at the intake manifold has engine vacuum and with the other end wrongly hooked to the air box, what would pulling a vacuum inside air box cause....hmmm.

 

Mine is the same as #2 example. Port with the round nub by it goes to the top of the manifold.

 

I’ll take a look and see what comes of it. Thank you guys very much

 

I just checked mine and it’s same as yours @BroHon.

 

Okay on that one side of that power steering valve one side you can feel suction and the other side you don’t feel anything. So I hooked them up and even if I switched the sides the idle didn’t change. Also I did the brake cleaner thing and the truck never changed according to my son. It neither bogged, coughed, almost died, or died so I know I don’t have a leak there. I also checked the voltage and I’m getting 4.8

 

You should not feel any suction across the PS valve if the steering wheel is not being turned. Replace the valve. Might try also just for a test plug the vacuum line at the top of the manifold to see if that stabilizes your idle.

 

This. Cap off both the bibs, the one on top of the manifold and the one on the air box. There are vacuum caps for this exact purpose. Does the idle change?

 

Not at all. I’ve capped off the lines in question. My friends truck doesn’t have them hooked up at all and he says they never have been? Did some tundras not have these hooked up from the factory?

 

They should be hooked up to that valve. When you turn the wheel, the added hydraulic pressure inside the lines is supposed to engage (open, or close) the little bunny-head looking valve, and the (added, or removed) vacuum when that valve switches will kick up the idle a couple hundred RPM. This ultimately prevents the truck from bogging down when you turn the wheel and engage the power steering.

Sometimes people disconnect the valve, either out of ignorance (can't remember where the hoses go) or because the valve has failed, and is letting power steering fluid seep up into the valve, which gets sucked into the manifold. It happens, and typically when it does, you'll see a smoke puff out the exhaust at startup. We've seen plenty of people come here assuming they've blown a head gasket, and wanting advice on replacing the motor. Fortunately, that valve is only ~$50 for Dorman brand, or just shy of $100 for OEM, last I checked.

 

I'm going to clamp mine off and see if I can scrub some rpm off my 900 idle

 

Mine seems like it barely idles above 500, maybe 550. Exhaust gets a little lumpy and growly down that low. Sounds kewl.

 

Okay thanks I’ll let him know and how do you know if you have it connected with the right hoses in the right spot? Now what is the standard idle rpm’s? And when warmed up?
I know it can’t be 1600 or 2000. If I remember my idle was like somewhere in the 600 to 800 range?

 

Test is in the FSM, which you can download here on the forum. Save you a search, see here.

Basically, if I'm reading this right, when the engine is running and wheel is at full lock, that valve should open. Pinching the hose (i.e. closing the valve) with wheels at full lock should make the idle drop. Releasing the hose while in that same state should restore to increased idle.

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Well I hooked up the hoses to the valve and when I put the engine in drive it dies. If I swap the hoses and put it in drive it dies. If I put the hose that is connected to the top plenum and then to the air box it drives? I mean I’m still in aka limp mode and in the same boat but this just adds to the oh brother! Also no change in idle. I’ve also tried to turn the TPS left or right no change. I don’t know if clockwise lowers the idle or increases it. Or does counterclockwise decrease the idle?

 

Uh, I think the computer controls the idle. There is no adjustment at the throttle body that adjusts it to my knowledge.

 

It's because the engine is running with the wrong values, it taught itself how to run with the vacuum hoses improperly routed. You probbly need to force a re-learn with the correct vacuum config.

Reattach to the valve. Unhook the negative battery cable for 10-15 minutes. Then re-attach battery and start the truck.

 

The TPS is sensing where throttle plate is and tells the ECU which then regulates the air intake and fuel mixture. It's not for adjusting idle. A relearn will need to be performed once TPS is adjusted properly.
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I’ll try that tomorrow! If I didn’t shave my head I’d be bald, I’m at my wits end with this truck.

 

Okay hooking the power steering valve to the plenum and air box did absolutely nothing for the high idle. I disconnected the negative battery cable and that seemed to fix the stalling in drive. But it seemed to almost increase the idle a tad. I’m at 1600 to 1800 at idle and about 1300 to 1400 in drive.

 

Did you drive it around after this? The relearn takes a few to occur

 

Yes I drove it around town about 38 miles each way. Now I think my alternator is dead. I have a new xs d3100 battery and at idle I went from 14.3v down to 6.66v. I have done the relearn process several times but truck just doesn’t want to let that high idle calm down. But tomorrow is a new day with a ton more shit!

 

If you can’t source new Denso alternator, Bosch will work in a pinch. You should be able to get away with the 90A or 100A unit. I forget what the larger was in 2000-2002

 

A Denso is what I have. See attached. What about those HO alternators? I have 4 pod lights, 2 30” light bars, and two amps, and two subwoofers in the truck along with accessories we use when we go hunting, fishing. Along with a wench in front and a wench in rear. My son is planning on moving up to Pennsylvania when I get done installing all of his toys in it.

 

With all that extra load(watts), would definitely consider not getting the 100A that you have(27060-0F020....Denso 210-0403). Either step up to 130A(27060-0F040-84) or the Sequoia 150A(27060-0F050). The connector and bracket would have to be modified but the 130A and 150A use the same mounting bracket and connector. As an aside for later MY Tundra owners... 03-06 can bolt on the 150A Sequoia alternator plug and play if I remember correctly.

04 Sequoia’s 150 amp Alternator Swap on a 00 Tundra + The 3 Big upgrades | Toyota Tundra Forum