Help for lift kit

Prior owner put 4 inch blocks in the rear and had a leveling kit that did not level is there anyone sells A two and three-quarter inch spacer or any recommendations? Photo for reference.
Gentlemen thank you all for the input in reality this truck isn’t going to tow anything except for emergencies more than likely.I just need to quit sliding off the seat. more than likely I will just add a .5 inch spacer since it doesn’t seem to far of with the bottom spacer and ditch the steel more updates to come on weekends not trying to drop a shit ton of money into this truck…yet. Max trip in the truck probably won’t be more than 30 miles a week to keep it going I have a vehicle for long trips and dd.
truck is just a formality for emergency situations aka bug-out

 

At 2 inches, that would have leveled the truck....except they added that big block on the leafs.

Personally I would ditch the spacers/blocks and get appropriate coilovers, springs and or shackles, but it you must keep the spacer setup there are some options

RC has a 2.5 spacer lift,

Amazon has some 3 inch spacer lifts.

$47 FLYCLE 3" Front Leveling Lift Kits for 1999-2006 Tundra, 3'' Forged Front Strut Spacers Suitable for Tundra 1999-2006

https://www.amazon.com/Leveling-199...e/dp/B0CZ8TF3L4?smid=A6KFV5KS3I263&gQT=2&th=1

 

It's generally not good to use strut spacers, a myriad of reasons we've discussed on here not limited to preload and strut-UCA interference to added component stress.

To the same degree, blocks out are not great because they contribute to axle wrap, which is worsened when towing, will cause premature failures in the driveline if you get on it constantly or tow, and can lend to other issues (snapped leafs, etc.)

Is there any reason you'd rather stick with that specific setup, instead of dropping a reasonable amount of money to lift the truck the right way?

I want to say ratio is 2:1 on spacers for our trucks, so that 2.75" spacer should actually lifting more than 4". Good way to nuke your knuckle.

 

That is actually two and i repeat TWO (2) spacer lifts stacked on top of each other. That is certainly nowhere near the right way to lift that truck, that will have the front axle angles at like 30degrees and the upper A-arm hitting the spring. There is pretty much absolutely no way around it, those two stacked is going to have the A-arm hitting the spring, and all the A-arm bushings in a massive bind. If you are wanting that much lift you are going to have to use the diff / A-arm drop cradle setups like a real suspension lift. The spacers up front can give you about 2.5-3" at absolute max lift without really really causing problems.
Those two spacers stacked, would theoretically give you about 5.5" of lift, the lower ball joint, upper ball joint, and bushings will be beyond maxed out, the upper A-arm will be hitting the spring before you can put the front end together. You wont be able to bolt the lower ball-joint back up to the lower A-arm because the lower ball joint wont be able to handle that angle you are trying to put it in.
Please, dont try this, it wont end well. Remove the block, go down to a shorter block, put in an add-a-leaf, only use one of the spacers at absolute maximum.

 

@Tannman you may want to read the "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It'll hopefully help you understand a bit more about these trucks and the suspension challenges they have.

You "can" lift things the way you're talking about, but 5" lift using strut spacers up front with 4" blocks out back is legitimately fucking nuts. You're asking for a disaster to happen. The only way to get 4"+ lift on these trucks the right way is going SAS or bracket lift. RCD and Tuff Country (not Rough Country) sell bracket lifts.

 

Well dang someone sells a 6" with drop brackets, kickers, knuckles, new sway bar and all? Looking at this kit they use a Bilstein 5100, but the tube is much longer effectively giving you the lift without using spacers.
https://www.jackit.com/ty139sd.html

Here is the tuff country kit
https://topdownauto.com/tuf-lift-kits-55905

@Tannman notice both of these have brackets that lower the lower A-arm mounting points, this is to reduce angles on the lower A-arm, drops the front diff to reduce the axle angles, reduces the angles on the lower ball joints, and the longer knuckles fixes the angles on the upper ball joints. This is the only REAL way to lift these trucks more than about 3" up front.