3rd Brake light sealant

Preferred sealants for the 3rd brake light?

Want to install a new LED housing and will need to put new sealant. Seems straight forward, thought maybe others will have an opinion to offer.

I’d prefer to not buy on Amazon, here’s one I’m looking at.

$26 Auto Dynasty Dual Row LED Rear High Mount Smoked Housing 3rd Third Tail Brake Light Reverse Lamp Compatible with Toyota Tundra 00-06

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0WMQQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Summit Racing has some more expensive ones, though I don’t love the look of them. Not sure if you can assume better quality with higher price

 

DK has done this. I looked through his build thread but didn't see anything on it.

 

I’m going to be doing this soon. Mine has clear coat overspray on it and looks crusty.

 

I'd skip the LED aftermarket housing if it were me, but that's just me. Too many horror stories across multiple trucks. Maybe the quality has improved but somehow I doubt it. I'd just swap out the halogens with quality (Sylvania ZEVO) lifetime warrantied LED bulbs.

The 3rd brake light is two pieces: Part 1 is underlying housing that holds the bulb connectors, wiring, and the foam seal that's glued to the cab. Part 2 is the clear/red lens cover. If the cover plate is gnarly on yours, you can replace with OEM, it's like $15. Verify your part, but the part number for my 2006 access cab is 81571-0C010 and the rubber seal between that and the housing is 81572-0C010. If you did want to buy the whole OEM assembly (both parts I list above), 81570-0C010. Again - verify compatibility before buying.

Don't use sealant on the rear high mount. The OEM uses closed cell foam with a very obnoxious tar-like adhesive on both sides and is highly effective. IF you do pull the OEM assembly, it'll take some time to remove the the residual crap without damaging your paint. And you should remove it. A lot of people are using the VIPMOTOZ, which appears to be rebranded under a few different names now, but read the reviews carefully before picking. This is what you're looking for. You really only need it if (A) your current seal is breach/leaking, or (B) your new assembly doesn't come with it (OEM assembly 100% comes with a new foam gasket - I bought one because I'm 80% certain Toyota will discontinue the part soon)

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Thank you. Great info. Will update any useful tips once complete

 

I have the evil mfg housing for a pair of Baja designs s2's. I have a generic weatherstrip due to the design of my high mount.

 

Update in the event the info may help someone else.

I have dry fit two different LED replacements. While I prefer the cosmetics on both, neither housing fits and seals as flush as the original. I can see them being a long term liability and the foam seal will be more exposed due to the imperfect fit.

I’m going to stick with @shifty’s advice and stick with OEM housing. Don’t like the cosmetics as much but none of these LED housings fit/seal good enough.

On the bright side, I will be getting a new foam seal behind the OEM housing. The original foam was looking its age.

 

I replaced the foam seal yesterday and previously replaced the 3 bulbs with LEDs in the OE third brake light . It went well but the original foam was degrading and failing as well as a gooey tarry mess. I didn't want to use any solvents that would ruin the clear coat so I just scraped most of the old foam and tar off with a plastic trim tool. I'll attach a few photos.
My advice, be careful to detach all of the old foam before pulling out the third brake light assembly. Mine was still difficult to pull out and felt like it might break. The foam seal I got off Amazon ( one of the ones shifty highlighted above) was very sticky on both sides so you probably only get one crack at getting it to seat and seal properly. It fits well now. I noticed that the plastic housing above the white cargo light bulbs was melted. There are now two holes there due to the heat and I had to scrape black melted plastic from the metal below. Maybe this helps someone. Good luck

 

Thanks for looping back on this, and confirming. What you're explaining is essentially identical to what I've seen/heard from others.

FYI, the OEM halogens that will come in that fixture will ultimately lead to melting holes in the top. Since you've pulled the original, I'm pretty sure you know what I mean. I'd be sure to replace the halogens with LED bulbs. I cannot recommend Sylvania's ZEVO LED bulbs enough. Yes - they cost a lot. But they work without issues, I don't think they're polarity-limited, won't cause hyperflash, are lifetime warrantied (the ZEVO ones only) and you should only need to buy once in your lifetime.

The LED bulbs you'll need are size 921. 168, 194 or others will technically fit, but not be very bright. It looks like Sylvania only carries the ZEVO in white now, sadly. But they do have a non-ZEVO 921 in red (part number "921R")

 

Regarding LED replacements for the 3rd brake light assembly, I agree that Sylvania Zevo are the way to go if available. In my case, I decided to go with the Lasfit kit. I've got an extra red LED too. These are very bright and have been functioning well for the past 6 months. See screen shot.

 

Helpful info on the bulbs. I’ll follow the good advice. Wouldn’t white bulbs work for the brake light also since the lens is red?

The foam seal from Amazon seems a bit thin compared to OEM. Still have not installed, so I could still order something different. I’m assuming it will work fine as is? Maybe my eyes just think it looks thin.

My housing had melted spots as described due to the halogen bulbs. I did use a solvent to help remove the sticky material. I tried to be precise so in theory the only effected area will be covered by the housing. Getting the housing clean and prepped for reinstall is also a bit of a chore

 

Well, OEM bulbs were white, so I assume "yes" is the answer.

 

And this is why "ASSUME makes an ASS out of U and ME"

 

The 921 bulbs are a simple swap and plug in with no resistors or other adapters needed? The reason I ask is because it’s the same bulb as the back up lights and certainly a higher output than interior lights. Thank you again for all the input

 

I don't think you'll find an issue. I can't say: I have LEDs in my 3rd brake/cargo light, but halogens on all four corners. I have LED mini projectors in the headlight housings, and a single LED in the "teardrop" (park light) position. But I didn't do any of those LEDs before installing the Diode Dynamics SmartTap, which will kill any risk of hyperflash. They also have a non-smart version that's about 80% cheaper last I checked. It's well-worth investing in. Just avoid scAmazon/fleaBay for purchase, they have problems with couterfeiters, their part design was stolen long ago, and the knockoffs don't have any worthwhile QC/QA on them so it's a risky purchase to save a few bucks. Other members have gotten burned on the non-smart knockoff part you'll find all over scAmazon, part died within a year or two or didn't function straight outta the box.

 

Ok thank you

 

5 months later, and all 3 of these Lasfit LEDs have failed. Flush $20. Now going with the Sylvania zevo LEDs

 

Went with 2 sets of white Sylvania zevo LEDs because the red ones are almost unobtainium. The extra 4th LED is now a replacement for any of them. $16 per pair on eBay vs $25 at Advance Auto/Amazon.

 

Hopefully they’re authentic. Man, I hate buying on fleaBay. I think I got mine from Advance Auto with an online coupon. ScAmazon usually has em too.

 

DISREGARD all below @Shifty 's quote- I just looked up specs: Different Base types...butthe 7443R are good.
I'll just go with standard "921R Sylvania" on the Ctr Hi Mount....

From @Shifty :

" The LED bulbs you'll need are size 921. 168, 194 or others will technically fit, but not be very bright. It looks like Sylvania only carries the ZEVO in white now, sadly. But they do have a non-ZEVO 921 in red (part number "921R")[/QUOTE] "

I recently replaced both tail lights w/these:
SYLVANIA 7443 High Performance Red ZEVO LED Mini Bulb (Pack of 2) - 7443RLEDBP2

No problems with at back corners and very bright; so would these work in the Ctr HiMount Brake ? Being Dual Watt [Running & Brake], would only difference be continous ON as runnning light ?
BUT, would brake light still work ?

 

One time when AI is more your friend than shifty`

 

Continuing along w/this thread...BUT a slight Tangent:
My Cargo lights remain ON, by Toyota design...no prob, except that there are times I dont want them ON.

Can a switch be installed in that circuit [cab accessible] to override the programmed time delay OFF ? IE: User ON/OFF Control...

 

Just push the button in the dash for “cargo lamp” (orange LED when on) and they turn off until the next door close/open is detected. What’s the difficulty/malfunction with that?

I don’t recall if that’s something you can program out in TVIP or not…

 

Do the 06s not have a cargo light switch in the cab? Check the owners manual, probably something in there for turning them off.

 

Amazing what one can find in Owners Manual....the bulbs wattage....who would of think it !

 

We do. It’s right here. When it’s amber, it’s on. It auto turns on when you open a door. If you tap it while it’s on, it immediately turns off. Basic toggle switch linked to a relay in the dash.

I was hoping someone would “RTFM” him on this one.

 

DOH!....never mind.
But honestly, I didnt realize hitting the dash switch will override it.

 

BUT,...is there a difference in actual light output [lumens, candelas, etc] of incandescent, which those Watt values are for, Vs. LED light output ?

 

Yes, if I'm understanding your question properly, I think this quick Google inquiry answers it.

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