2024 Oil

it’s really subjective on use case. My Toyota Supra is 0w-20 from factory but I run 5w-40 because it’s a dedicated racecar.

 

Use whatever you want

 

For real? That is fucking impressive.

 

I watch a lot of videos by The Motor Oil Geek on YT. His videos are impressively informative. With science to prove it with Blackstone reports. He analyzes all sorts of circumstances provides analysis for our education. One tip I have gained is additives are not only a waste of money, but are causing way more harm than people realize. There are additives in the oils today as it is. The trick is to find the best oil for your motor with its own recipe for additives. For example, zinc (AKA ZDDP) is a necessity for older motors with flat tappet cams. So many of us running these motors think that more is way better. Well, it's not and can destroy our motors. It's the right blend that matters.

As for viscosity, the OEM recommends the 0W-20 oil not to wear our motors out quicker, but to match the needs of how they are built. Low tension rings can and will become stuck in landings with higher viscosity oils from buildup over time. Then you are not creating the correct compression to ignite all the fuel in the chamber. Which will increase fuel washout of your oil. Now, 10K oil changes in a twin turbo motor is a definite issue in my book. I will change oil at 5K and let the dealer do their free 10K change for the life of ownership for me.

My thoughts at least, you should check out some of his videos.


Mike

 

Ask him if he signed the application form. Oil is worthless without signatures.

 

This post just reminded me of a huge plot hole in Back to the Future Part 3. You're telling me that Doc Brown is capable of building a time machine, but he can't refine a few gallons of gas using 1885 materials? I just don't get it.

 

His ice maker is lot more complex than rectifier good enough for 1980s car. He could even put a wood gasifier in it. That would totally cut the plot and highlight the talents of Doc once again: a time machine and wood gas in one DeLorean

 

You contradicted yourself in the same post. I'll stick with what the manual says for oil, but I'm going to change it every 5K miles. The manual says to change it when the truck tells you to. So you want to pick and choose what rules in the manual to follow? If you're gonna be a rebel, go all in and be a rebel. I change every 7,500 miles with a heavier weight oil. I am all rebel.

 

Most of the 100+gas powered (LP) standby emergency power generators I have to service are Ford or GM standard auto V8, V6, or 4 cylinder engines. Some came with the manufactures original oil filler cap. This may say "use only 0w20". The various generator company's all use and recommend thicker oil. 5w30 to 15w40 oil. When we change the oil ourselves it has been a whatever the person in charge at the time wants. And still some last 40+ years.
I still follow the manufactures oil type recommendation in my personal vehicles. More or less.

 

Now this is just silliness. Erryone knows the signatures have to be on the bottle.





Outside and inside for full engine/interwebs protection.

 

The Scheduled Maintenance Guide actually says 5k if you tow or are on dirt roads often. It’ll be 5 k for me. I have 8 qts of 0w-20 left, might try 5w after that.

 

I do 5k as well, the 20s oil is M1 which Toyota has always engineered their vehicles to some extent off what BMW, Mercedes or Audi are doing. I figure they know what they are doing but 10k oil changes are not good unless you are doing only highway miles and no towing or off roading.

 

I'm searching the o'reilly auto parts website and there are some, mostly all of the 0-20 Mobile1, says "does not fit Vehicle" (2025 Tundra) ?!?
Anyone know what the recommended Viscosity Index is for our trucks?

 

Engine oil selection“ Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Toyota vehicle. Use Toyota approved “ Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy the following grade and viscosity.Oil grade:ILSAC GF-6A multigrade engine oil Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20Outside temperature SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used.However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier starting of the engine in cold weather.The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature.



this is in the owners manual.

 

Yes, I understand all that.

On O'Reilly's website, the only difference I can see between a Mobil1 (Not Fit) and Royal Purple (Fit) is the Viscosity INDEX.
Mobile1 has 175 and Royal Purple has 168. I'm just curious to know how a store like O'Reilly/Autozone/AdvAutoParts/etc can determine this specification.
If you go to Mobil1's corp website, they say all their 0-20w fit the truck..
Is this just marketing? They trying to push one brand over another?

Maybe I'm just thinking too much into this, i've always been a Mobil1 user and am not worried about a website saying it doesn't fit.

 

I'll take "Overthinking It" for $1000 Alex.

I would trust Mobil1's info long before I would trust O'Reilly's.
And the manufacturer (Toyota) before that. Toyota motor oil is made for them by Mobil1. Is it the exact same? No, additives are spec'd by Toyota for their branded oil.
Will running Mobil1 have ANY detrimental effect over time? Millions of high mileage Mobil1 users would say NO.
Same answer for users of many fully synthetic oils meeting specs.

Realistically, you can run whale snot as long as it meets specs. Run what you want.

The dead horse beating will continue......

 

No such thing where it concerns lubricants. If you finally choose an oil, and don't find a better one within 500 miles/instantly change to that one then you're doing it wrong.

 

Should also point out that the same motor used in other parts of the world specs out different oil types.
Heaviest I have seen for that turbo v6 motor is 10w40.

0w20 is a lower viscosity oil that helps with maximizing fuel efficiency to meet cafe standards.
Throw in some fuel dilution as the oil ages and its properties go down even further.
Is it the best long term oil for the engine? Hard to answer that one.
If these motors failed in just one region, thats one thing. Sadly failures have been world wide.

In the end, use what you believe in.

 

I have used Mobil 1 in my both the Tundra's I have owned and have always been satisfied with the protection it provides. You can trust that this oil will be fine in your truck, the manufacturer would not recommend it otherwise.

 

Curious if anyone is running the Valvoline Restore and Protect in their truck? I switched to it on my 05 Corolla with 200K miles, but wondering peoples thoughts on running on these motors to maybe help keep the turbos clean???

 

Brand is one thing... Using oil from major players like Mobil, Valvoline, Castroil etc is always a good start.
Since you got 200k on the corolla, I presume you have changed the oil etc when you needed to.
That provided the longevity that you have had so far.

As for using oil variations that try to restore engine wear and tear? If it helps you sleep at night? Great.
If you think it really fixes the engine and rolls back the wear.... Well thats something else entirely.

Lets say that if you had a high miles motor and it started to burn excessive oil.... then switching to the next step with oil viscosity can help with that.

 

Folks seem to have missed the toyota spec of ILSAC GF-6A - this is a differentiator in addition to viscosity. ILSAC GF-6A is specified to reduce potential LSPI. GF6 is being superseded by GF7

 

ILSAC GF-6 and API SP designate the same performance. API SP with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-6A by combining API SP performance with improved fuel economy, emission control system protection and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85

I wish I came up with that info...but I am not that smart, just some info I received from a Mobil Oil rep..lol

 

Seems the difference is spec is related to fuel economy.
From valvoline in 2020:
API SP is the new minimum engine oil standard developed to address the critical needs of today’s engines; including chain wear, Low Speed Pre-Ignition, and deposit formation. API SP is the foundation for the ILSAC GF-6 specification but does not include fuel economy. API SP is available for different viscosity grades.

 

Any synthetic should keep the turbos clean. Restore and Protect supposedly cleans oil control rings. Some have success with it.

 

Car Care Nut just posted a video on a V35 motor he acquired that had an incident. It came missing #1 piston and rod. The video had some extremely interesting discoveries. What I saw and was surly noted, was the oil rings were very stiff. My thoughts are the Valvoline restore and protect may be a great choice every 2-3 oil changes to keep the buildup down. There are 2 oil squirters below every piston and most likely causes more of an opportunity for this to happen. Of course, he has no knowledge of how many miles was on the motor. It’s an hour long and he discusses many aspects with what he observes with our motors.


Mike

 

Valvoline restore and protect is a slow cleaner. They state by the fourth oil change it should clean things up. I’d use it every time. I’ve been a Amsoil guy since 2004. The Tundra is getting dealer oil every 5K with two bottles of BG MOA. Will the MOA do anything…who knows. I do the other 5K myself with M1 EP and MOA. After my service coupons are up at 85K. I start using Amsoil SS 0W30.

 

I started my Pennzoil Euro L journey yesterday, I does seem to be a little smoother....but maybe that's just the butt dyno.

 

I would skip the dealer oil changes and just start using the Amsoil now instead. Your engine will be better off in the long run honestly. Just my thoughts obviously.