General Supercharger Thread

Booooo…

 

Sometimes those Seattlites can be a bummer...not all, but.

 

Sounds like he ran into someone that came in higher on their offer... hopefully kharma finds its way into his transaction and his new buyer backs out or can't come up w/the $$$; that kinda crap frustrates me when folks refuse to honor their agreements

 

You're gonna blow your transmission out, kid!

or...

You're gonna burn your valves out, @e30cabrio! Sorry, man. Had to do it...

 

Too soon.

 

Yeah, dealing with private party sales is annoying sometimes. Dealerships suck too in their own way. Oh well.

 

What is the best way to trim the under 1900 heat deflectior?

I'm hoping the shop will let me do the pulley and shield.

 

Scissors!

 

I had to go back and read previous post.

I was gonna call Rock!

 

I used scissors to cut mine

 

If I ended up buying a DC LB are there any issues related to supercharging it or is it business as usual? I only ask because in my old 2nd gen Tacoma the longer bed and cab configuration had some driveline issues with vibration and if it's a similar situation in the Tundra then a S/C would probably be suboptimal for that configuration or exacerbate it with the increase in power.

 

Are you talking 6.5' or the 8' long bed? I'm not what driveshaft configuration the 8' uses, but I'd imagine it wouldn't be an issue.

 

Not sure I’ve ever seen a boosted DCLB. Closest I’ve seen is this sweet RCLB which didn’t seem to have any issues with speed!

 

DC with the 8' bed. SR5.

 

I think @ViktorG had his lifted longbed DC supercharged (along with his regular cab 6.5’ bed).

I see no reason why it would be an issue.

I should add that RC/LB , DC/RB , and CM/SB are all on the exact same frame with identical wheelbase. The DC/LB and RC/RB are the only two frames that are different. But the frame used on the more popular configurations utilizes a two piece rear driveshaft; if memory serves, the DC/LB does too.

 

Sweet, just keeping my options open in the hunt for a truck.

 

I should really follow more of these pages. I guess it’s not all sunshine and rainbows for the trucks “factory built” for the big power either.

 

The owner of the shop said because of liability I can't do the pulley and heat shield in his shop but once it's off I can pick it up and bring it home to do it.

 

Good time to change the rotor oil in the SC

 

I resemble this remark. No Issues at all. Stage 2 Harrop with LT headers and 3 inch exhaust. Made 512 at the wheels.

 

Should I do this?


Anything else? Just call scol and get it from them?

Edit, no answer at SCOL, the site is pretty sparse on Maggy parts/stuff.

What oil/what should I get?

 

I got mine from Jon bond back in 2015. This is the Toyota svc kit. Don't know if they still have it.

 

@e30cabrio
https://superchargersonline.com/product/eaton-supercharger-oil-bulk-fill-8-oz/
Any Eaton oil will work. Definitely do the coupler too. Uses fipg gasket in back of the 1900.

 

Do I need 2 8-ounce bottles? Or is it only one of these amounts (and if so which)


https://superchargersonline.com/product/eaton-supercharger-oil-bulk-fill-8-oz/

 

It takes 8 oz or whatever 205mil is...

 

Ordered 2 bottles, in case.
Do I need a new fill plug? If so where is it hiding, all I see on SCOL is an Eaton fill plug, sorry for so many questions

 

The plug came with the kit. I'm pretty sure you can re-use it with a little blue loctite.
**it's been a while since I dd this. plug comes ith an o-ringand doesn't need loctite.