General Supercharger Thread

I don't remember - was it you that was running stoich up to 6 psi or so because of the tune? Or was that @nobodyintexas . Just curious if there's a correlation. Either way, bummer that it needs work. But I suppose valves are prolly less of problem than rings would be.

 

Why couldn’t they have invested all the time and money for a stronger trans option into a transmission with more gears? Surely there is a built 6L90 option out there at least that would have given us at least the same 6 speeds. Even better would be an 8 speed like the ZF8 or Land Cruiser 8 speed. It would seem to me you could have more performance with less power with a trans that has more gears.

 

What do you guys think, doing both heads is north of 5k parts & labor and I still have a 143k bottom end (I can't do the machine work, don't trust machine shops here don't have the bandwidth to do this right now) or get a used motor.

I found a few 200 Series LC motors, what do you guys think makes sense?



Am I wrong thinking 200 series & LX570s get better build quality?
This makes it look like they are the same


https://www.ebay.com/itm/3959163918...+IgBlFhvbPV/xpuWbX5Bb0sQ==|tkp:Bk9SR-6634X-ZA

 

I have seen a max of 11. something, lately it's been 9 or so.

I'm not sure when it happened, it's been running seemingly fine except for atrocious MPGs

 

If you don’t have to send your motor in as a core, get you another motor. Then you can build up your spare motor.

 

I think it was @nobodyintexas - I remember him saying he sees decent psi without PE. He was going to get his tuner to change that in his next appt.

 

I'd just make sure you can use a Toyota ecu with an Lexus engine, even if they're both a 5.7L. Can't tune a Lexus ecu with HPtuners. Idk what's different

 

Is it still lc's and lx570 manufactured in Japan? If you can swing it and want to build a motor it's your call either way.

 

I thought it was just the lexus ecu and not engine specific. But then again the early gen2's were funky with later model transmissions.

 

Good point, the LX knock sensor PN supersedes the Tundra unit:

Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor
Part Number: 8961506010
Supersession(s): 89615-06010; 8961520090; 89615BZ030; 89615BZ040

Toyota Sequoia Knock Control Sensor
Part Number: 89615-20090

So, I'd think if the sensors are the same it all would be. (I was thinking I ought to replace the things under the intake while it's apart, either way.

I'm trying to get the best motor I can so I don't have to build it.

lol

 

I would get a known-good engine to get back up and running. Then I would then tear down the old one until I verify the problem, schedule machine work as needed and order parts (pistons/rods/studs/MLS HG), then swap engines back. If you install your stock sensors in the new engine, you shouldn't have any issues with ECU compatibility.

 

Car-part.com is where I'd be headed, run it NA until you can get the "re-"built motor done and installed, then enjoy the fun for as long as you can stand it. Maybe not the "fun now" option, but it'll keep you moving and under whatever warranty the used engine has. Just my .02.

 

Catching up and reading all the talk on Trans Tuning and Valve Bodies. Are people seeing an uptick in Trans failures after boosting?

 

Your welcome for finding

I mean, with more power comes more problems, to an extent. If you do a base SC and aren't drag racing it at every stop light, then it shouldn't be an issue. If you do like some here and add more boost, fuel, play around to find out, then it's going to catch up to you. You can also get a stock truck, dog the shit out of and blow the engine and trans. Over the years I have realized that to make a 6,000lbs truck reliable takes money, if your racing it. Weight=stress.

 

As confirmed above, I believe the answer is "yes, but!" with that being >=650 crank HP (above/beyond "stock" aftermarket) and/or extreme duty. Cost of entry for this group. YMMV.

 

That's where those motors I posted (before eBay) came from, thanks

I don't need it to get around, it is going to the shop in the morning.

 

Good luck! Im flight following to see what the outcome is.

 

Yup

I momentarily hit 6psi. Due to me putting on the smaller pulley

if i push the pedal a bit more , I am safely into PE

getting it retuned in January

 

But you were probably hitting 5 psi on the 80mm pulley. Still sounds like too much boost without fuel.

 

Can anyone tell if this is a Magnuson 1900 or 2650? I'm new to all of this, it's on a truck I'm considering buying.

2015 TRD Pro DC 90k miles, has some "unique" red leather seats, CA, Texas, and for the last 5 years it's resided in the greater Seattle area so not really the rust belt. Carfax shows OCI's every 5k miles. Seller says nothing leaks, everything works normally. Says the blower went on 5 years and 60k miles ago and has a Corsa Full Exhaust. Negotiated down to 34k... Seems like a lot, but besides age, smaller gas tank (can be fixed), and the lack of TSS which I have mixed opinions about. Is it a better deal to try and get a 2019-2021 and then add a blower in a year?

 

Looks like a 2650 to me. Personally, I’d prefer a pre-2019.

 

TRD, higher pressure radiator cap too! You found yourself a great rig!!

 

That's a 1900. 100%. The 2650 from magnuson only came out about 2 years ago or so.

 

That would make sense. What do I know - I have a Whipple. Haha.

 

1900... price doesn't seem that bad to me all considering

 

Is the gain from the 1900 to the 2650 only 10hp and a tad more torque? Googling shows the 1900 to produce 550hp and 550lb-ft and the 2650 says 560hp and 563lb-ft seems kinda minor....

Those seats though...

 

Sorry, I'm only chiming in here right now cuz I'm here hangin' out... but I'm sure some others that are more knowledgable can answer that question for you w/more specificity... From my understanding, in 'as delivered' configuration, yes the numbers are fairly close and if you're not going to chase higher numbers in HP/TQ you're probably good either way w/limited noticable differences. However, if you're going to push the unit to higher levels of boost, then the 2650 will be able to do that much more efficiently than the 1900...

Regarding the seats... those are just seat covers!! Since the listing says, 'No significant damage or problems', I'd pull those covers off and verify the original Pro seats are there and in good condition. The Pro seats are anything to write home about, but they do carry a 'premium', and I wouldn't want to be stuck w/the red seat covers over some BS take off seats (especially since you don't like them)... Not having the Pro seats would also devalue the truck a bit... all of that is just my opinion though!!!
If you're local to the listing, wouldn't hurt to peek under those covers and take that thing for a spin

 

Not local it's in the Seattle metro area about 5 hours away, I'd fly out Friday and drive it home if everything checks out and the paperwork gets sorted out. If things look fishy then I'd just fly home.

I'd probably leave it as-is. I want some longevity to it and I feel like 560hp will be enough... Famous last words though

 

The 1900 supposedly produces torque lower in the rpm range than the 2650. But the 2650 leaves room to grow hp and reduces intake air temps better...

Just looked at the offerup ad, looks pretty good. It's about an hour North of me.

 

You choose one of two paths, either have a Toyota dealer do the install and leave it as-is and enjoy or you go full 683+ post SC thread upgrades and fall down the rabbit hole. If its your daily don't mess with it and do a dealer install, if its for fun then have at it. If my wife knew how much I have spent on this "truck"... the guys who installed my built transmission were like "What do you do with this?" and all I could say was "Go to Home Depot really fast" haha.