General Supercharger Thread

Need is tough lol. Didn’t need most of the changes to the truck. Would have served most of what I use it for in stock form, but what fun is that.

I needed the bigger tires cause the stock ones looked weird with the mild life from kings, then I needed morimoto headlights to clean up the front end, then came the need for the supercharger and add ons to give it some more power with towing and compensating for bigger tires, then came the need for the transmission. So yea I guess you could say I needed the bigger tires

ironically now I need 5.29’s and the speed master LSD. Wonder what I’ll need next

 

I went 35's for more clearance. I boondock camp and fish a good amount during the spring/summer months. Also for snow storms here the extra height helps.

 

Those with the TC set to lock up all the time in 4,5,6. Does the TC unlock for shifts? Are the shifts any rougher with it set up this way?

 

converter would get to 225 easy unlocked.
i had it unpinned over the summer towing and it was the same

 

It unlocks for the shift and then re-locks after the shift when you hit whatever rpm it's set to lock at. Then it stays locked. Never noticed any rough shifts.

And flex lock is completely disabled. That shit was annoying

 

No change in shift feeling

 

I plan to do both of these things at some point.

 

Had flex lock disabled for a while now and didn't notice anything special. Having the tc lock and unlock 100x's a second doesnt sound good to me. Or whatever the timing is. Running cooler can't tell as I removed stock thermo and warming puck. Loss in mpg can't tell either. I did lower my tcc hot lock up to 245 deg from 257 and corresponding unlock temp and lowered the rpm's at which it happens. I've never seen high temps with my transmission.

 

So decided to to drop lock up further, normal/AI-criuse/tow-haul 4/5/6 under 2k and unlock around 1300rpm. Also added 20% taper 50% from 17.2 to 86 commanded throttle in the optimum torque trans table. With transmission pinned and a 40 mile drive on the highway, only maxed at 173. Transmission shifted like butter. Granted just loaded the tune. It's a little jagged at 2200rpm so will smooth out/interpolate these areas.

 

Do you have a cooler? Doesn't sound right. I take you left from AZ, temps are like what, mid to high 70's and lows in the 50s. Here in sunny SFla I am at like 160-70. Over Thanksgiving weekend I was in mid 30 to 40 and trans temp was around 130-35. Also, while cruising on the highway my converter and trans temps are pretty much the same, 1-3 degrees off.

 

same, here in Houston

 

The OEM cooler is probably a lot smaller and less effective than the aftermarket ones you guys put on your 2020s. On my 2017 it’s only the top 3” or so on the AC condenser.

 

I ran 33x12 until 2015 then went with 34x12.5 on the RW wheels until a week ago. They handled well and the 33's can do pretty much all you need.
I went with 35's this time as I wanted pay more per tire, get worse gas mileage, put strain on my transmission and drive train all for an extra 1-2 inches for clearance. But they look good!

 

I loathe Load E with a passion. Save those for the 1 tons. I'm running 37" Load C's on my JK. Never had an issue on CO trails

 

There's two coolers, the upper radiator one and then like a 4x18x1.25 brick that goes on the passenger side. I'm not sure which trucks came with which, I always thought the brick was the only trans cooler until I saw a truck that didn't have the huge brick but had lines running to the condenser.

 

I think oem is a 15 row on 2nd gen and does ok. I took all that plastic stuff off on the front rad support. I thought of getting a larger one but haven't got high temps. On the later gens with integrated coolers I would go stand alone or pipe from condenser to another cooler.

 

Mostly looks, though the Tundra has done thousands of miles off-road, but I don't think the clearance from the 35s helped much. I've also gone off-road in my mini truck with 26" tires so

 

My 2010 had the smaller separate cooler. My 2017 is only part of the condenser. I’ve considered adding another one in series.

 

Agreed lol same here. And tire traction will get ya through more than tire height too. My mini truck has 37s and is basically offroad only so save the offroad activities for that and if the tundra needs to go offroad, good grip on stock tires should get me where I'd need to go lol

 

I drive mine where there are no roads alot (gathering wood or moving things around my property/families property). It mainly helps with break over angle over hills/obstacles. However 35”+2” lift on a doublecab shortbed tundra is MAYBE equivalent to my completely stock FJ cruiser that I drive in the same places (just can’t load up a bed with stuff). Open difs do not help either. I went with 315/70r17 load D summer/winter sets that are 59lbs and 21lb rockwarrior wheels makes it not so bad, mpg definitely worse than stock. A full size truck is just not meant for general offroading vs a mid sized SUV. A supercharged otherwise stock Tundra is a great choice.

 

lol im up at 7k ft. not all of az is scortchung desert i left at temps of 30°. highest temp i ran through was 65°. yes obviously i have a cooler its an 18 and i pinned it. trans pan temps were under 200 and cinverter unlocked would get extremely high

 

So I got something random and off topic kinda but also not. I'm visiting my folks in Mesquite TX, from Canada. Any of y'all nearby? Wouldn't mind meeting some of ya and checking out your rig. Wouldn't say no to a ride in a boosted truck either

 

That would be ideal to run for cooler temps.
@NatesNightMare run the outlet from condenser to stand alone cooler and return to trans for much cooler temps.

 

I'm envious of you all who have super low transmission temps. Even completely stock on factory wheels/tires, i've been on the warmer side of reported numbers. Now, even with gears and cooler and such, around town I run 186-192, highway unloaded is 196-202 and towing I'm anywhere from 192 (under 50mph) -210'ish (highway speeds). With the smaller 15-row GCS system I would heat soak up to 220'ish towing after 3-4 hours. Stock, pre-cooler, I was at 225-245 pretty much all the time. I've towed and monitored temps essentially since the truck had 5k miles on, so this is 5 years and 55k miles of historical data.

 

Converter tuning has a lot to do with low temps. Like Nate said, if the converter unlocks the temperatures instantly spike to insane values regardless of the cooler, then when it locks up the temps drop back to pan temp. If the truck is able to run with the converter unlocked for extended period then the pan temp will also climb. If the converter lock up values haven't been tweaked then the truck will almost never lockup, even in tow/haul.

I wouldn't sweat hitting 220.

 

Yeah, I kinda don't even consider that a cooler. Come to think of it, I really don't even know where my original lines go. I installed my cooler pretty early on so. I believe that read that they only go to the engine radiator.

 

Yeah it’s not the best, but it’s a damn sight better than what they offered from factory on 2019+ and keeps the fluid a good 20-25 degrees cooler than it would be without it.

 

Hey all!! So in short the level 10 trans with the Prospeed valve body mod held up for longer then expected! Even with level 10's torque converter, better clutches and other things they do... with them rebuilding it twice... knowing what I know now I would say I would agree that having the valve body mod done to handle more pressure for the shifts to help extend the trans life is required. Secondly I would limit any AB60 builders, level 10 or IPT to 6-650 whp range if you plan on giving it hell. You also need a good bit of torque managment tuning done as well to pull some power out at the shifts. (I did use the trans, after the second fully refreshed rebuild, new everything it was sold)

Lastly its definitely wise to go with the built 4l80e, especially at that power level and up. I think mine should be able to handle 1200-1500 once it's all said and done. Will hopefully have news to report by the summer.

 

So I'm thinking about getting a 2.5 gen. I want to eventually get a S/C. I'm leaning toward the Magnuson 2650. Some people seem to say the stock fuel pump is ok, this thread's first few posts make it sound like the engine will lean out and grenade if the stock fuel pump isn't upgraded. Which is it?

 

In stock form everything in the Magnuson kit is fine. If you want bigger injectors then a bigger pump is needed to get the most out of them.