Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Ive not checked the level yet. I’m not the most mechanicly inclined so I’ll find a video and check that today, I’ve seen in other fill and drain videos they mention the fill level dipstick. No leaks, I’ve left it parked on concrete for a couple days and never found any puddles or drops.

 

Well just found 2 videos on checking the fluid level and wont be able to do that. I can do a drain and see how much comes out and refill. Is there another way to check that I’m not finding?

 

Doing a drain and fill won’t tell you if the level is correct. Have a shop that is competent in how to service Toyota transmission do a drain and refill to the correct level. They will give you an idea on the fluid condition. Mention the transmission code.

How many miles on your Tundra?

 

Im dropping it off at the dealer today. The service rep on the phone didn’t know the difference between flush and drain and fill so I just put myself down for an oil change and I’ll explain the trans and codes when I get there. It has 230k miles. Would you recommend a full flush, if it’s done at Toyota, with that many miles? Or just drain and fill every oil change until it starts looking clean?

 

At 230K just drop the fluid. Don’t have them do a flush. Flushing on a machine can dislodge particles and plug up the valve body and then your replacing the transmission. Do you know if the trans fluid has ever been changed?


Service writers, for the most part, are just information gatherers.

 

Thanks for all the help today. Dropped the truck off and I could not get anything in with the service rep. He was only concerned about my “chopped” tires. They’re evenly worn and have plenty of tread depth so idk what he was getting at. He was completely unconcerned with the codes sheet from autozone and only recommended that I buy new tires, change the oil and to flush the trans. I was over today by this point so I told him change the oil, and leave everything else how it is. I’ll just drive it until it goes back into limp mode and limp to a shop so they see exactly what it’s doing. Thanks again

 

If the guy isn’t addressing your concerns I would have walked out.

Hopefully the fluid change with the level set to spec will solve the shift issue.

 

My 2011 Tundra has a sealed Trans. Changing the fluid requires the trans to be at specific tempature range to set the final fluid level. just a FYI

 

I wanted to ask for suggestions on My Tundra(2011 4.6L) acceleration from idle. Since new, the truck has a very sensitive throttle response when leaving a dead stop. I have become use to it, but when others drive my truck they comment on being to touchy. My TPS sensor displays zero when at idle and appears to ramp up in down smoothly on my obd2 daignostic display. Do others have the same syptoms?or any suggestions on how to tune for this issue?

 

93 SC400 Trying to diagnose a disassociation between actual speed and speedometer? The local radar clocked me at 40, but my speedometer was at 20mph. I do believe it's a cable, what should I be looking at? Wheel speed sensor? VSS? cable?

 

That’s an old old vehicle. I’m not even sure if Techstream would work on it. Is the odometer reading half the distance?

 

Obd 1, highly doubt it... From some research, I think its the vss. It just started this morning, so i got about a mile out, before I decided to go home and swap cars. It felt like it was dragging ass tbh. Question now would be which vss it is, since it apoears both SC and Supra share a vss behind the dash. I'm hoping its the transmission output and not the dash. Eitherway both are 400

 

Get a service manual then back probe the easiest of the two sensors and compare the output to the spec.

 

Sounds like your gas pedal had a shim installed. You can remove it and it will help with the touchiness. Some may suggest a new pedal assembly altogether.

 

07 Tundra 5.7. It appears that my immobilizer has stopped recognizing my keys. I have an original key and valet key, I think the Master key was lost in the desert over a decade ago. Not getting a code for the immobilizer when I'm running the blue driver OBD2, but it will cut my ignition intermittently if I don't allow it enough time to recognize the key. Current method I'm doing is leaving the key in the ignition in the 'ON' position until the red light with the key turns off and then I start the vehicle. Otherwise it will not allow me to turn over, anyway to reset it? Do the guides on the googles work?

 

Is it common for this to be a random failure? It started working again out of nowhere and if I don't have to mess with it I'd prefer not to.

 

How do you initialize the steering angle sensor on a 2020 Tundra? What diagnostic tool can be use other than Techstream

Error Codes:
C1439
How to Fix C1439 Toyota

1. Begin by performing a diagnostic scan to confirm the C1439 code and identify any other related issues.
2. Check the wiring and connections to the steering angle sensor for any damage or corrosion. Repair or replace as necessary.
3. Calibrate or reinitialize the steering angle sensor using a diagnostic tool or software specific to the vehicle.
4. If the sensor itself is faulty, replace it with a new OEM part to ensure proper operation.
5. Clear the code and perform a test drive to ensure the issue has been resolved.

 

Any luck with this? Same year, codes and issue. Mine came up about a week ago exactly at 250k after driving through some really dusty and rocky terrain for a day. Ive seen some people mention the transmission output speed sensor for fixing these codes. Have you looked into that at all?

 

So i have a 2019 limited 41k and my brakes need replaced already. I was gonna use OEM but not really impressed with how long they have lasted . I live in indiana so pretty flat state. I did pull a 4k camper for a few years on short in state trips. That being said should i shop aftermarket brakes and rotors? I plan on getting a bigger camper so was thinking heavy duty brakes anyway. Any suggestion?

 

EBC makes a great product. No need for drilled/slotted rotors, just get the blanks. As for pads, it is up to your preference. See what each one says for green, yellow, and red

 

Ok thanks for info

 

@Ruggybuggy I replaced my steering wheel on my 2020 Tundra. Long story short I replaced my coil spring and steering angle sensor with an OEM one and got rid of all my steering angle related error codes. I actually got rid of all the codes but I am still getting the Pre-Collison Malfunction warning light. I have Techstream and it is showing no codes. It doesn't show anything being wrong anywhere. Is there some procedure I need to follow to clear this warning light? My truck is lifted (with just King shocks) but that was 4 years ago and hadn't been having any issues. Any guidance would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

Hello! I wish I had a picture for you but alas, I do not. I am trying to find a part.
2013 Tundra CM 3UR-FBE 5.7 4x4
On the very front right of the intake manifold there is a thick vacuum hose that makes a downward right angle, I need a new one, and standard hose does not bend properly at this angle. Does anyone have a part number for it? Thanks!

 

You should be able to match up the part on any Toyota online parts diagram and it will give you the part number.

 

Got a link to a relevant one I can start with? I tried poking around on toyotapartsdeal but unsuccessfully.

 

https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-d...BpBrEcBeXG_xoC0xcQAvD_BwE#sales-region=U.S.A.

 

2019 tundra 5.7 - 75k miles

started last weekend to back out of garage and it was immediately noticeable something wasn’t right. Engine was running rough and a few seconds later, check engine light started flashing

got the following codes

Basic OBD2:
P0305 (Pending) - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

ABS:
C1201 - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)

Pre-collision system 2:
C1A50 - Brake System Malfunction

Trailer brake:
C13A9 - Brake System Circuit

after clearing codes, restarting the truck and letting it idle for a bit, the engine smoothed out and the misfire did not return. The rest of the codes persisted. Drove it about 5 miles and then parked it for the rest of the day. Started it that evening and all the warnings from earlier in the day were gone. I’ve now gone about 100 miles in total and everything is still gone.

it was super weird and I’m not sure if this was a fluke thing or if any of these things are related. I had just filled up with gas before I parked it the last time about 4 days prior so thought I could have got some bad fuel or something but it’s run fine through a quarter tank so far since this happened.

everything acts normal but if there’s anything I should check, definitely looking for any advice.

 

Do you have tech stream? The flashing CEL was because of the misfire which can result in a damage cat. The trucks warning you not to drive it. If you have techstream it will give you a data snapshot of what was happening when the codes were set. You could pull number five spark plug to have a look at its condition. Had the truck been sitting for a long period of time when you started it and had the misfire? Are you loosing any coolant? Coolant in the cylinder could cause the misfire on start up. A clean, like new plug can indicate the cylinder eating coolant.

Toyota tends to light up the dash on certain codes and if you cleared them and they went away you likely OK.

 

I did about 700 miles over the holiday weekend. Filled up with gas on Tuesday then the problems started on Saturday morning. I haven’t driven it as much this fall as during the summer but it usually gets run every few weeks.

Coolant res is currently at the line for low but I’m not sure where it’s normally at. I haven’t touched it since I purchased it in 2019.

Here’s the plug in 5



and 1 for comparison

 

Personally I would switch one and five plugs around. Fill the coolant reservoir to the full mark when cold then monitor the level. See if you can duplicate the issue. Let the truck sit for a couple of days after a drive. If you have a radiator pressure tester you could pressurize the system, wait and see if the pressure drops then start the truck to see if you have a misfire.
No Techstream?

Number five is definitely “not like the other” but isn’t indicating it’s burning coolant. They look “like new” when eating coolant.


Have you been changing your coolant?
https://youtu.be/dfGTI0sWozc?si=84N1hKV98EDNRSVC