General Supercharger Thread

@JustDSM that’s a wealth of knowledge! So as I kind of expected, it comes down to wizardry beyond my current comprehension. I don’t ever see myself digging that deep into it, but it’s good to know there are tuners who know the Toyota ECU at that depth. Unrelated, but if you ever care to shed light on your thoughts of transmission tuning and what can be done to make the AB60 hold up under bigger power I’d be all ears…or eyes in this case.

 

Take it for what it's worth, but. According to Car Care Nut, machining these head messes with the VVT. He says there are thicker head gaskets to compensate for that. He says he's knows because it's happened to him in the past. Don't know if there is any truth to this but worth checking into.

Edit, just saw. Not a tundra head. My bad.

 

Count the spark plug tubes on that head…

 

@JustDSM I appreciate the depth of explanation given here and will follow your recommendation since you will be tuning my setup.

 

I installed a stock 1900 with no other mods other than a custom tune. I never saw the IDC on a stock tune because I just went straight to a custom tune. So maybe the OEM tune will deliver different results than what I got. Now when you say "you will not run out of fuel", to what extent is that a consideration. After my final tune, @Sea Level, my IDC was 105%. Do you consider that running out of fuel per se. Or do you consider running out of fuel where you absolutely need big injectors for more fuel?

 

Awesome conversation on boost referencing, I learn something everytime I open this thread (I boost referenced mine day 1) lol

No worries, yep, it's a BMW motor, it has Vanos, only on the intake side (their early version of valve manipulation) and I do have an oversized HG going in both to compensate for loss of material & the slightly higher forged piston compression.

On the BMW, the engine builder said that level of detonation is due to a bad tune (from the company I got the SC kit from) he says I need to ask them for compensation, I feel they'll blame everything else including sunspots & my toaster.

Anyone think there's a 0.00000001% chance they offer me more than suck it up?

 

I think they will also ask you to pound sand.

 

Just went this route on my GX. Parts and labor at $3500 is a steal. That's what just the reman tranny cost me.

 

I wouldn't count on anything, you probably signed a contract/waiver warning you of the risks and absolving them of any responsibility. Tuner will say the engine wasn't built to handle the boost, engine builder will say there was something up with the tune...

Did your engine builder give you any documentation on the build? Parts used, bearing clearances, piston to wall clearances, ring gaps, etc.?

 

The kit claims it is good for stock used motors, there was no contract, builder was meticulous, full specs, pics & video of the process, machine shop belongs to his brother, he provided full machining info.

Regardless, I would not be shocked if they ignore the email. I'll wait until after the new year & post on every BMW forum that they sucked after purchase, during the tune process & after. They say they give a 2 year warranty & full support, that has not been my experience. Maybe they'll surprise?

 

https://youtu.be/3d5zhv2TDag?feature=shared

 

If you’re at 105% IDC, you are not able to meet your fueling targets. But the context and details are just as important to the story as your duty cycle.

What RPM are you observing that IDC & what was your PE/COT value at that RPM? What was your Injector constant? How these are configured are important to the picture. (You don't have to share that info btw!) Your calibration and/or, in combination with a potential install or mechanical issue, could be an underlying contributor to why you're seeing the IDC you are. Without the context, it's an incomplete picture of what's happening.

On a typical sea level install with our calibration, after a confirmed baseline on the factory Magnuson tune (one reason we ask our clients to shake down the vehicle on the provided calibration), we will see a high 80's IDC at 6200RPM, which will yield results like this:

 

This is sortof off-topic (not as off topic as BMW parts though so bear with me ) does anyone know if there's a way to adjust the time the engine cranks before starting with techstream or HPT?

 

I've never seen nor read of anything that allows us to control this function. What little I know is that there's a programmed functionality where the ECU will continue to crank until it sees a particular RPM or about 10 seconds, as soon as you hit the key, whichever comes first. If you want to stop it mid-crank, you can turn the key back to the OFF position. Are you seeing extended crank times?

 

No extended cranking here. Was thinking it might be beneficial to have it crank for an extra couple seconds to build oil pressure after sitting for several days. Thought I had read somewhere that it was programmable, but maybe not.

 

Pull the fuel pump relay and crank til you feel you’ve properly lubed the motor. You could also wire in a fuel kill switch to do this as well.

 

I wouldn't worry about that. And if you do, you'd be better off getting an accumulator to actually flush oil through the engine instead of using the starter.

 

I'm thinking that the engine would still fire (rev, then die) due to the fuel still in the system.

 

Battery disconnect will do the same. Trucks always start then die after battery disconnect.

 

All valid suggestions, but probably not worth the effort. Just something I was thinking about while walking the dog

 

Chop my legs off & call me stumpy!

The SC vendor responded claiming the tune was not done, I sent the last email where he says if the car is running right we are done (paraphrasing)

He responded send the current read of the DME to prove it has his last file.

Guess he is going to pay.

 

That’s great to hear. Hope they pony up!

 

Posted on 2nd gen Sequoia FB group.

 

Whelp interesting findings but not surprised since all the rebuild kits I’ve seen are similar

 

So pretty much get a local/level10/IPT rebuild with possibly their extreme valve body? Or your reman with a beefed up VB?

 

So , I was a bit off. After re-checking. I know at one point I was, but that was at the beginning of starting to tune. Here was the last tune. IDC was 93.8@5600 and 99.9@6000. I understand now that there are other variables and not just IDC. When I can, I do go and do some reading on things just to learn more about my truck.

I did move up to DW650 inj and FP since I might plan for the future or not. Plus I have seen were Magnuson injectors/FP are close to max on custom tunes. But I guess results vary based on many factors.

 

It looks like there may be higher performance trans rebuild materials available from McLeod/Raybestos. I don’t know who is actually using them over OEM though on the “built” trans options out there. If the Aussies aren’t using them I doubt there is much to be gained. My takeaway right now is get a valve body on the stock transmission, the sooner the better. Then keep the fluid clean with frequent changes, and keep it cool with the trans cooler and pinned thermostat for your best chance at a long life.

 

Ok I’m trusting the Aussies, the VB will keep my Harrop company. You ready to pull the trigger?

The only thing I’m nervous about are getting all the trans pan bolts out without breaking them.

 

Try to clean the top of the open pan bolts and several soakings of your favorite penetrating fluid. We don't have salt out here and I still clean and soak those bolts...can be hit and miss on snapping them.