What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Haha thanks for all the emotional support everyone. I definitely want people to learn from my mistake. I read your warnings in several posts shifty, they didn’t go unheeded. I had 2 fatal assumptions that led to this situation. 1.) I had never felt the big torque wrench click over on anything thing under 60lbs, 27lbs it didn’t audibly click and I didn’t notice. 2.) I thought the worst case scenario of overtightening was a really stuck bolt with rounding edges like I had been fighting already.

I picked up a new 05 transfer case yesterday and 4 265/75r16 Nokian LT3s. After review of my options I am going to ask around to try and find a welder or try the durability of JB Weld or gasket maker
Before I swap. Really interested in drilling a drain onto it. I have watched all the videos of how to remove the actuator but not the back plate and it seems just about as easy to swap the whole thing as replace that part. Plus if I return this T-case I can get plenty of other junkyard goodies like wood trim, a VSC hydro brake pump they are selling labeled as a brake booster for super cheap, and more.

 

I've been trying to decide if I want to put the standard length coupler on the M12 or the extended one.

The other would go on the pistol grip one.


I think the shorter would be more automotive friendly. I don't have deeper access issues I can think of. But maybe for driveline zerks? Then the problem becomes greasing tie rods or ball joints with the wheels on. I dunno man. Choices.

 

I watched a video about Meso customs making an overhead dome light with an integrated board with both white and red lights for the Tacoma to keep your night vision. Thinking about a simple "poor man's " solution for the Tundra, the DC has T10 bulbs on either side and then a main bulb in the center. This center bulb is turned on when the doors are opened and the side bulbs are only on when pressed. I got a 2 bulb-pack red T10 LEDs by Lasfit from Amazon for $10. The hardest part was getting those OE glass bulbs out. I wrapped the bulb with blue painter's tape and then pulled out with a small hose pliers.

 

Hate watching the odometer creep up

 

Man, I love it. It means I'm getting that much closer to the truck FINALLY being broken in. Looks like you're almost there! Only 5k more miles to go!

 

Yes, leaving the old one I returned to. Its time to fly the nest for good. This place is getting far too woke. Story in the PMs. Its not for public.

There's not a lot that I've forgotten. I can't remember dates, or appointments, or due dates, or anything important but by God I can remember how to take apart a dinosaur press at former job that we only gutted one time 6 years ago. My truck, something that I enjoy working on, shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeettttt son!

My brain retains mechanical. Like a titaniumtrap when it has sleep. I cant WAIT to be well rested, and sleeping at night with my girl and my boiiiiiiis

I'd love to make some fine red mist activities happen for yall on the YouToobies

 

I managed to replace my needling bearing with the ECGS bushing. Huge thanks to @FrenchToasty for the loaner tool. Made the job easy.
Only problem is when I went to drain/fill the front diff. Fill plug came out pretty easily. Drain plug did not! I decided to commit to the job and after stripping the drain plug I started drilling. And I am left with a drain plug with a drill hole in it while I try and get a screw extractor kit big enough to get it out. Hoping I can get one in town, but I preemptively ordered one just in case.

 

Don't use an extractor. They're meant for broken screws not seized. You break off an extractor then you're really in a world of hurt

Hit it with some heat and then a chisel/hammer or an air chisel

 

The best way would be to weld on a nut, then hit it with an impact. Then go buy the Lexus upgrade plugs - lexuspartsoutlet.com

Part Number Part Name Price
90341-24016 Plug Straight Screw $9.77
90341-18060 Plug Straight Screw $9.49

 

Gah. This times 1,000. Made that mistake on an exhaust manifold for a '92 Civic HB. Managed todrill on two sides of the extractor, and fish it out. Took almost an hour. Then enlarged the hole. Used larger extractor. That MF'er broke too. I said "FUCK IT!" and gave up. Decided not to bolt in the nice, polished SS aftermarket exhaust manifold I paid $275 for. I was in my 20s at the time. Man that sucked. I bet the new owner was cussing me when he bought the car, but he told me he'd be replacing the engine anyway, so I didn't think it was important.

@Kimosabe if you don't have a welder, you may consider slotting it to the point you can get an allenhead in there and turn it.

 

I tried heat and penetrating oil and a hammer. A couple rounds of each. No luck and so then I drilled into it in hopes the heat and thinning it out would help. Then used a larger Allen head socket. Still no luck. Sadly I don’t have a welder so I’m gonna try one of these which should do it.

 

Awww she's just a baby

 

Is this for front and rear diff drain plugs?

 

If that doesn’t work, I’d try the cold chisel method of rotating the plug loose in the counterclockwise direction.

 

This was just shared on the Facebook page

 

Thats gotta be a chicks truck.

 

My neighbor



This poor truck looks worse everytime I walk by it. I actually tried to buy it from the kid's grandpa, like 4 years ago. But he wouldn't sell it, because he was giving it to his grandson. It was pristine 4 years ago. Every now and then I'll see the kid outside and I'll give him advise.

 

Classy.

 

New TDI,?

 

Bought this one last year when I got the truck and have been using it with no issues. I have the locking tip and also just a straight tip I ground down to fit in tight spots. Worked well so far.

$55 Lincoln 1134 Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18" Whip Flex Hose and Coupler, 6" Rigid Extension, 7500 PSI, Premium Dual Lip Follower, Variable Stroke, Jam-Proof Toggle, Filler Air Bleeder Combo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDZ8?ie=UTF8

 

Tried the new wheels on to confirm no interference with calipers, etc. And measured everything pre lift for science. Pumped to get the tires on these!!!

 

Moving into Mad Max territory may serve Noah & Crackie well. Cuz Deer.

 

When you dont have a bumper, you pay a little more attention to the road & shoulders.

helps to have some retina burners.

 

Ow. My eyes...

 

Im thinking about going with the wood railroad tie look for the rear bumper. I like this guy’s implementation of it.

 

Funny how new cars only come with brights or extra brights.

 

That would hurt.

I believe it's just a marketing gimmick. When you consider how many drivers aren't paying attention to the road, but rather something else, it wouldn't matter if there was a lighthouse up front. Safety and good driving habits begin with...drivers?

My perception may be incorrect, but it seems that nowadays many peoples mentality is that it's others responsibility to look out for them and their safety. I disagree. Responsibility begins with the individual.

 

Nobody is paying attention. If they arent checked-out & relying on muscle memory, they're fiddling with their phone.

strobe the light cannons & they'll wake up.

also, leave enough room in front of yourself at stoplights, so you can roll forward & see if they'll bump the car in front of em.

 

Yes, that's my point. Many drivers (who by the very fact that they have chosen to get behind the wheel, proves they are willing to assume responsibility) are checked-out and preoccupied (especially with phones, and, more often than not, it's women) with other things than the responsibility they assumed. I certainly don't want to hurt anyone, so I do my best to be responsible, but I'm also not naive, I see that I have to be on defense. I see it especially when I'm on a bike. It's scary and risky AF, and no ultra-brightness of lighting can save someone from their sheer stupidity or low i.q.