1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Don't think I've ever seen a CVaxle rust clean through, but that's what it looks like, holy shite. There is no strap on there. Being held in place by hopes and dreams.
Nice new frame.

 

The metal strap on the outer boot is still there and tight down on well whatever it's tight down on.

From what you're saying I'm assuming the strap should be further up the hub? If so wow is that bad news

Edit:


The flash helps highlight the strap location

 

looked like rubber in the first pic. i didnt zoom, my bad.

 

according to the all-knowing, we have 2 ton axles.

 

Doing some research on CVs did Toyota stop doing the remans on 1st gens?

Looking like part#434300C010 is what I need. I'm finding them for $370 per from Lakeland Toyota but I wasn't sure if anyone's had had any luck with finding those $85-$100 remand CVs lately

I may have answered my own question.

 

Yea.. I spent my day stripping mine apart to fix the deer damage
Just waiting for a friend to stop by and help get the doors off and swapped around and start setting gaps

 

Remans are disco’d.

 

This reminds me, I need to hit the scales and see where I'm at post flatbed build. If my math is right the flatbed is around 60lbs lighter than the stock bed. Im a featherweight compared to some of the big boned trucks here.

 

Alright folks, hopefully the last question on the CV front.

With reman OEM CVs unavailable I've come to the following COAs

1. Bight the bullet and get new OEMs at a total cost of about $900. Have the truck out of commission for a few weeks while I wait for them to arrive from Lakeland Toyota.

2. Go with an aftermarket CV (Carquest Premium [Which seems to be rebranded GSPs], or Import Direct which seem to be the same as the NAPA CVs) If there's any recommendations on readily available parts store CVs I'm all ears. This would let me get the truck back on the road tomorrow as its my daily driver.

3. COA 2 plus a rebuild kit for the OEMs currently on the truck to allow me have them as spares for when the aftermarket ones inevitably fail.


I'm leaning towards #3 as its significantly less cost and gets me back on the road before the weekend is up. However, if just going right away for new OEMs is significantly better I can just bare the cost and the wait times and drive my old TJ for a few weeks.

Thank you for all the advice!

 

Lmk if I can help find any parts. Those little cars are still pretty plentiful and seen often out here.

 

Dude in Texas is selling off his hoard of parts. I should see if anyone’s near him to grab some larger shit and help ship it here…

 

Oh, word?

 

Well, you know what to do. Always willing to help. Just don't ask me to come up there in the winter

 

Touch choices given your situation. If you opt to rebuild, I would go with high angle silicone boots. They tend to last longer. It looks like you're lifted in the front..?

I went with CVJ axles and they have treated me well, but they are very expensive. I got their top of the line axle. Other people opted to get their mid-grade option and the boots didn't last.

https://www.cvjreman.com/product/boot-rt50/

 

What’s left to rebuild??

 

Valid point, probably not much haha.

 

I don't see a bad cv joint as a reason to stop driving the truck. Especially if rebuilding them is off the table. Drive the wheels off (hopefully not) that thing and source the new parts at your leisure.

 

I've considered what to do if my 4x4 became totally inop/or I didn't want to spend the cash on expensive repairs. I'm just cutting my axle ends off, slapping them back in, pulling the front drive shaft (maybe even the entire front diff, not sure of dependencies) and dunzo.

 

I ended up going with a mixture of COA 1 and 2. I picked up the GSP rebranded axles this morning from advance with new seals for about $240 all in.

I figured this gets me back on the road with peace of mind quicker while I look for the best deal on OEMs. It also lets me do the job once with cheap parts so I'll know what I'm getting into once I get the OEMs. I know I'm kicking the can down the road by maybe a year or two but I think that works out for me.

 

Better yet just figure out how to shift it in 4-Hi and let'er eat.

My work truck has a manual shift T-case and the linkage had rattled off and was missing for years. I'd just roll up under the truck to shift the T-case into 4wd when needed. Funny and slightly inconvenient when I thought ahead, after all if 4wd is a necessity I'll just take the day off. Rain days are the tits.

One day I got stuck in 18-24" of muddy water and had to swim under the truck to do the T-case shifting maneuver. I ordered the $30 part that night.

 

Make sure you put the old axle side by side with the new, and verify there's nothing you need to swap over (seals, etc.)

I saw some on here bitching about that with the NAPA axles.

 

I didnt swap my steel dust shields over.

 

I went ahead and grabbed new dust seals for all four corners. Hopefully I got everything I need!

 

I really could use a new trunk lid and a 94+ wing hmmmmmmm

 

The boots on these are not the most durable. I get about 3-4 years out of them and then they split and need to be replaced. But lifetime warranty!!

 

We do it right, because we do it twice.

 

So I'm about halfway through the job. On the passenger side the inside seal is a different size than the drivers. It's a NOK 5321E instead of the 5320E on the driver's side.

Does anyone know of the National seals equivalent for that? My cross reference websites haven't found one. What do you all usually get for that seal?


Edit: For anyone wondering in the future the National pn is: 710595

 

Or in the case of axle seals, 4 times. And intake manifold gaskets.