ScanGuage 3

C2177, I think, is flagging because you pushed the TPMS reset button under the dash but likely didn't complete the required drive cycle. This is taken from Toyota's NHTSA docs on that code, note all bullet points but pay attention to the last one - you pushed to reinitialize, i.e. reset all TPMS codes and data, but the vehicle didn't receive enough data to complete initialization within 20 minutes of driving at 23mph+

Restart the initialization - i.e. start the truck and immediately hold the reset button on the dash until you see TPMS light flash 3 times. Then go drive around at speeds over 25mph for at least 20 minutes. See if that resolves the issues.

I think what you've done here is, the shop installed new sensors, they programmed in the sensors, but either (A) they failed to know they needed to TPMS reset using the button, (B) you failed to drive around enough to allow registration to complete and sensors to initialize/send enough data, or (C) some combo thereof.

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That makes sense! It was hard to read the reset process you posted so I pulled my owners manual out. It didn’t say anything about driving the truck so I let it sit there for 20 minutes and then I turned the key off and then ignition on and then drove around. I’ll will do the process over but this I’ll drive it right away. Either way, I appreciate all of your help!

 

Of course dude, I'm just stoked we have a chance to make a thread on this one.

I'm dropping some more info that may help from another Toyota TSB, and it also mentions the elusive "-14" on pressure output. Here's some snippets taken from their TSB PG0004-06 published back in 2006.

First is Toyota's notes on cause/repair for codes C2177 you're seeing, along with C2121, C2122, C2123, C2124, C2125:

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But more important here is the diagnostic process they recommend to deal with TPMS errors of all types.

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As usual I am late to the party but I have had a ScanGuage3 on my 06 since Feb 2023. Love it! related to this issue half my TPMS sensors were readying the -14.5 and the other half had regular pressure. I was having two tires mounded on a set of rims I had.(bought the truck with two tire on the Sequoia rims and 2 on tundra rims. the truck also came with the other 4 rims...) So I had the Tire shop test my TPMS when they were mounting the other tires. They fix the tires and TPMS monitors and it works great. I think I saw someone post that it takes a minute to boot up the ECM to actually read, that is absolutely correct. I had to replace a couple sensors but it is nice to have that issue resolved. Also glad to see how easy it will be to change those in the future. The tire store charges around $100 bucks to replace and "calibrate" the sensor.

 

I have been looking at scangauge 3’s for a bit…..was doing a search while waiting for a flight at the airport and saw this.



Went to order and change stores to my local advance and got this:




I suppose I could try to get my local store to price match and show them the website, but why the huge discrepancy in price from one store to another?

 

Man, this is great info, I’m glad you have access to it. After just briefly looking over it, the reset procedure has to be done to complete the process when adding new sensors. This maybe where my problem is. That’s never been done as a part of the entire process. I’ll give it a go tomorrow and see what happens. I have a hour drive to my hunting property so that will be a good test.

 

I believe they are going out of business.

 

who is? Advance or scangauge?

 

Advanced, they are at least closing some stores, I know that.

 

interesting; I was able to search the surrounding stores closer to me and found one for $162!!!!

SCRATCH THAT - order was canceled

Edit - found one in a store 10 miles from me. Ordered it online and waited for them to cancel the order too. Got the email that said it was ready for pick up! I will get it tomorrow. $171

 

And I thought I got at deal from then at $220

 

Fingers crossed dude. I think this may be the missing link so many people aren’t completing, and the reason why they fight so much with TPMS after sensors fail. I think the ones who get lucky enough to get it right are folks whose tire shops clone the old IDs onto the new sensors OR the ones (like my shop) who know to reset the TPMS and drive for a few miles and check for readiness. My shop charged extra for it and I thought it was frivolous, but … I get it now.

 

Well, this did not solve the problem. I completed the procedure and about 20-25 minutes into my hour drive the toms light came back on and gave the same code. This leads me to believe that my toms receiver or ECU is bad. I’m leaning towards the receiver since I can still connect to the ECU and write sensor IDs to it. Do you know how to test the receiver? Also will one from a first gen Sequioa work? They appear to be different part numbers but it seems like the ones for the sequioa are everywhere and I can’t find one for a tundra.

 

I'm not 100% sure on your question.

But if I were you, I'd try to unearth the TPMS receiver based on location in the pic above, and test its +12v lead and ensure it's getting power.

 

Just picked up the scan gauge 3. Ordered a ram mount for it to go on my Rago dash plate. Now to figure out how to program and display what I want…..ont he Scangauge 2 I know you needed pid codes to display trans temp. Do you have to do the same for the scangauge 3?

 

No, select your vehicle info and it will do an auto scan and bring all of those up.

 

Well I did not have time to testing out the receiver, this weekend. But, I found someone parting a truck out and have one on the way. That way I can drop the headliner and do the testing and if it is bad I can go ahead a replace it then. I’ll report back once I’ve done this. Not sure if I’ll get to it before Christmas or not.

 

Op, you not getting reading. Looks like unit is reading basically one bar of atmosphere. Or "zero" psi. Think you need to re- set/connect per posts on here. I think its weird that they all read -14.5 which is close to barometric pressure hg of -14.7....

 

If you mean a re-set as pushing the button under the steering wheel and driving around for 20 minutes, I’ve done that.

 

Weird. I did the same a few days ago - Started truck, held button and waited for three separate flashes, then went driving. That day I probably drove 25 miles after. Although I recall, when I originally was getting flashing TPMS light, it wasn't so easy to see when initialization finished (i.e. to tell the 3 flashes apart from the regular flashes I was getting)

Today I was curious and took my OBDLink MX, chose TPMS ECU when I tapped the connect button, tapped on Diagnostics, then clicked the 'PID Value' tab at the bottom of the screen. In there, it shows re-initialization was complete/OK, it showed all five IDs and their pressures, and the 'minimum' pressure that will trigger the light. One of the tires is lower than the others, I think it may've been the spare, it's a different tire and a steel wheel.

Anyway, point being ...

You have the ability with the MX+ to check the current status now, then disconnect, fully close the OBDLink app, turn the truck off.
Then insert key and start again, pushing TPMS reset button, waiting for the 3 flashes, reconnect the MX+, connect to the TPMS ECU again, tap Diagnostics, tap the PID Values tab, and check the initialization status again.

Did the intialization status change? If not, you didn't successfully start the initialization, and that's why you're still here. If the status did change, go drive around for 20 minutes, where significant amounts of your trip are above 30mph.

At the end of the trip, before you turn off the truck, I'd kill disconnect and kill the app fully again. Then re-open it, reconnect to TPMS ECU again, and check the values. Do all of the IDs have tire pressure information? Are any IDs missing it?

NOTE: The reason I'm telling you to "kill the app" after disconneting is because I've noticed OBDLink appears to cache values related to TPMS specifically. When I disconnected from TPMS ECU, then connected straight into the Generic OBD2 network after, all my TPMS values were still in the PIDs tab.

 

The sage continues. I found a TPMS receiver from a donor truck and swapped it out, still having the same problem. I’m going to pull my headunit next and make sure those wires didn’t get messed up during the install.

 

I discovered that after you do a tire rotation, you can drag and drop the tire pressure readings to put them in the correct positions.