Carrier Bearing - Play Allowance

There's lots of info on this if you look around. From what I've seen they interchange but you don't get the seals that came on your 4X4.
If you're just doing normal driving you should be fine.
Yes good luck with getting hold of RA.
This is a picture from when I did mine. The smaller diameter goes inside of the bearing and the two larger ones go into the seals on the correct bearing. On the one you bought there will not seals but it will work.
You don't need to pull the driveshaft to replace it. Just remove the 4 bolts and put each half of the driveshaft on jack stands. Mark everything first. Very easy.
I would check the u-joints before worrying about replacing them. If they are lubricated and don't have any play I would not fool with them.
People get vibrations in these trucks and do all kinds of things and never get them resolved.

 

Is that a new Double Carden?

 

No it's the original.

 

Your instructions are clear and succinct, which is good, and you're not wrong about owners chasing vibes, but I want to add that all vibes are fixable. All of them. It just may not be cheap. I went through what most have at some point. I threw a lot of money and time at it in a short period of time to rectify vibes and was successful. I'm convinced that what most fail to do is address all possible culprits as quickly as possible. This failure leads to tail-chasing. It's not easy or cheap trying to bring any product back up to snuff.

Edit: my point is not to minimize or denigrate that great points you've made or personalize them, but rather to say that on old vehicles such as these, every bushing, every mount, every bearing, plays a crucial role in a system. Years cannot pass between replacements because by then other components have worn out. I get people having to take this approach due to finances, etc., but it does amount to tail-chasing, ultimately. One only need to look at the quantity of threads devoted to various "I have a vibe here, I have a vibe there " to realize that piecemeal replacement of components is oftentimes an exercise in futility. Owning and maintaining an old vehicle isn't cheap, but it can be done.

2nd edit: And that's not to mention proper set-up.

 

I ended up canceling my first order of Dana PN 2117501X. I reordered the 5002007, which is indeed marked with the same Toyota part number as my original, 37235-35030. I installed it today, will go for a drive in a bit, but it was super simple to swap as long as your keeping track of the shim(s) and spline alignment.

My only gripe about this process is that 5002007 does not pull up on Rock Auto as an option for my truck model, and RA also does not list that it is a replacement for Toyota PN 37235-35030 (as far as my searches went). So, in summary I am grateful for the pointers in the right direction, much appreciated!

 

That’s why we have this forum (and also because of timing belts and LBJs).