General Supercharger Thread

Just received more pulleys for the 1900 Magnuson, this also included a batch of 4Runner/FJC specific hubs (the pulley offset is different) and I updated the pulley design to clear the 4Runner snout a bit better since they utilize the same Tundra pulley. Maybe getting all the hardware will motivate me to mess with the 95mm throttle body again

I also got about 550 parts of various things I designed for my friends shock rebuilding company in Salt Lake City.

 

I gotta support Jesse @TurboKits whenever I can. He's got the DW650s and he has his 880s. 2nd and 3rd items on this page: https://www.turbokits.com/vehicles/toyota/toyota-tundra.html

 

the one i posted had the 650s for almost $100 cheaper

 

Gotcha. Do you. I was just adding to the robust list of sources provided and adding another forum member to mix.

 

Damn, I wonder about those 880's. Anyone on here running those? @TurboKits can you shed some light on this for me? Do these require a harness like the prospeeds or does it use the OEM harness much like the DW650's do?

 

I've been waiting for someone to report running them too.

 

I'm debating on pulling the trigger for the 880's. I'm getting tired of extended starts with the Denso 750's by fiveO!

 

How extended are we talking? Like twice the amount of turn over?

no change if you leave the key on for a sec to run the fuel pump?

 

The first start up of the day. I turn the key wait for 43psi and it starts right up. After its warm I usually wait a second and it fires up. But sometimes it will go into a second round of start cycle and fire up half way through. Other times there are no issues, go figure.
I tried increasing/ decreasing IC adding air etc. It's mostly just annoying .

 

I was just going to ask you if you made any head way on the 95mm TB.

 

"It's yer tune." -FiveO

 

Absolutely nothing. But I'm going to order some more parts for other projects in two weeks or so, and thinking throw a RevB throttle body together that has an integrated lip for the throttle plate to seal against.

I guess that'd leave me with two RevA prototypes to auction off or something

 

Wall Art.

 

Got a whole box of pulleys and hubs that won't work for one reason or another already, what's another few pounds of throttle bodies

 

Yeah. And trying to tell him it's not and others have some issues doesn't matter.

 

You can send me a box of them. I’ll bring them in to the house next week and show the Mrs.

‘Well, I did some work on the truck, but I don’t know where these go. They must not be necessary. Leftovers? It seems to run ok so I’ll guess we’ll just send it..’

 

I was tuned by you guys a few years ago. Truck runs great. But I have changes I would like to make. Is it possible to get an unlocked tune that I can tweak or do I need to start from scratch?

 

We do not provide an unlocked file.

Work with your retailer, or send us an email, and we can accommodate. We have quite significantly updated our calibration since you've were tuned (based on your statement), so I'd encourage you to get updated to our latest file.

 

This AB60 teardown video from a 200 series by that Australian company is awesome and worth the watch. I’d buy stuff from these guys. I also learned a few things about the AB60 which are kind of unique such as for gears 1-4 it doesn’t disengage clutches to switch gears, it just keeps locking up additional ones until the 4-5 change where it disengages, and then does the same as 1-4 for the 5-6 change. They also have a good one on valve bodies rebuilds I’ll add below.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BFyZJLE-aIk&t=1888s&pp=2AHgDpACAQ==


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L7MrxcEjHbQ

 

The transmission oil cooler video is great too. They state best temp is under (90 deg C)194 deg. And running cool (45-50 deg C) 113-122 deg is ok. Running (110-120 deg C) 230-248 deg is too hot. Will degrade oil seals...
These are all general temps and didn't mention specific models. Without my atf thermostat my fluid was 150-170 deg. My current thermostat this summer (85 deg) didn't go over 197 deg.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DyU3LIpA-Mg

 

I like at minute 31:30 the cause is overheated oil causing c1 to fail in 1st gear probably in 4hi in sand... @reywcms. Keep em cool and a built Valve Body!

 

Never see near 230 pan temp in the sand but definitely planning on additional cooling either way with naca ducts on the rear fenders with coolers. Maybe try these Aussies out

 

I saw 231 (converter temp) sitting in traffic today, and 248 a few nights ago doing a really short pavement climb (2wd) into a neighborhood that probably took all of about 30-40 seconds in 2nd gear (very steep driveway)

I've only had my SC3 for about a month now, but those temps really concern me. I never saw anything that high in my '08 even when towing...

I'm starting to think it might be a good idea to pin the t-stat...

We don't see freezing temps expect for a few days a year out here on the coast, and according to everything I've heard/read it wouldn't be an issue until it's really in the negative temps.

Can anyone in here think of a reason for me to NOT do that to my '21 (at least until I've got a cooler installed)????

 

Had mine pinned since day 1

 

Last winter in 20-30 deg temps with no thermostat or warming puck I saw 150-170 degrees. It took about 15 minutes to come up to 150 deg.

 

Hmm extreme or nomad unit lol

 

The tstat or the throttle?

 

So, I'm not SC'd or anything...

Am I still able to drive the vehicle normally prior to it reaching temp?? Usually, I don't spend a lot of time sitting in the driveway waiting to warm up prior to driving off; normally speaking, I just allow the oil to circulate and warm for a minute or two then I'm off... However, prior to it getting up to temp, I do try to keep the RPMs under 3k and stay out of the skinny pedal

...or would pinning it cause any additional risk(s) prior to the fluids coming up to temp? In other words, would it force me to allow the truck to 'warm up' longer prior taking off after it has sat for a bit??

 

You're also having yours rebuilt right now

Sorry, I had to...

 

Those temperatures are crazy, 248???

I recommend to everyone to pin the thermostat, and personally I have the torque converter lockup in 4/5/6 which drastically helps cooling the converter down to pan temp (wouldn't help in traffic though). And of course if you don't have a trans cooler, it costs $300 so I would do that if you dont have one.