Rotors?

I knew that about the squealer for the front pads, that's why I called out the passage about the rear pads. For me and/or the vehicles that I maintain, its not a big deal either way as I inspect the pads when I have the wheels off for regular tire rotations.

If I have a chance later today, I'll check the FSM for some other vehicles with the single piston caliper and see if there are mentions about the squealer placement.

 

Front caliper is mounted forward of the axle.

Rear caliper is mounted behind the axle.

So both sets of squealers are on the leading edge due to the caliper position.

 

Update guys, so I got the calipers and pads apart no problem. But I can’t get this F**kin rotor off for the life of me. Best I can do is get a bigger hammer from Harbor freight, I’m out of ideas on this one. I could just slap new pads on it and be done, but I’ve already smacked tf out of the rotor so idk if that’s wise…any ideas?

 

Also tried adjusting the parking brake adjuster thing as one video advised to help get the rotor off, that didn’t work either…

 

First, take your BFH and tap the face of the rotor, around the lugnuts, all the way around, at 1, 3, 5,7,9, 11 o'clock, do this 3-4 times to break it free in case the inner hole of the rotor is rusted to the hub. You don't need to smack the fuck out of it like a pimp on his trick, just moderate taps.

The rotor has slots in the edges. Use those to your advantage next. Get two stout screwdrivers, and insert one at 12, one at 6 o'clock. Using the handles of the screwdriver, push in on the top while pulling out on the bottom, and alternate directions, like you're trying to walk the rotor off.

It *SHOULD* come off. If not, repeat a the above a couple more times before you give up.

If/when you get it off, you may want to brush off any rust from the edge of where the hub seats, and from the mating surface, then apply anti-sieze so this doesn't happen the next time.

I'm shocked to hear a Cali truck is having these issues. Normally I hear about this happening on rust belt trucks, or on little imports that have a screw holding the rotor in, a lot of people strip the screws because they don't give their screwdriver a couple of good whacks before impacting it off (or they don't use an impact driver)

 

Last time I did the brakes on my SC truck, I had to fight the rotors too. I started with a rubber mallet and the rotor scoffed at me so I brought out the 5# BFH. That got the rotors off but left some ding in the rotor. Not a problem since I replaced the rotors. Next time I will paint the hats on the rotors like the ones on my Porsche.

 

I’m close to throwing in the towel, I’ve been doing this for 3 hours now to no avail, what the worst that can happen if I just slap some pads in and call it a day? I’m just gonna farm it out to some shop, let it be their problem

 

There should be two screw holes on the rotor face, 8mm I think. You can thread in a bolt on both and tighten to slowly walk the rotor off the hub. Should be.

 

Don't give up yet! Rod may be right. I know the drums have two threaded holes, opposite sides of each other. Just thread two bolts in, hand tighten till snug, then do 1 full turn on each bolt, alternating. It will 100% come off.

 

One of them snapped, not even sure what size this thread even is…even a 10mm doesn’t fit

 

Wait a minute it didn’t snap, but it’s making a popping noise, not sure why the rotor isn’t coming off

 

IT WORKED!

 

It took two 12 mms for me, but it came off, thank you guys so much, let’s see if I can finish this without issue

 

Ok so tomorrow i gotta do the right rear, im spent for tonight, that rotor was a royal PITA. Test drive seems absolutely fine

 

Shit I totally missed this is a Sequoia.

I was, like, “rear… wtf?”

 

Got my moneys worth out of the old pads lol

 

You’ll need a bigger hammer. Did mine a few weeks ago, had to use a big sledge hammer …don’t give up, it’ll come off

 

I've had good luck with heat from a small propane torch. Just heat the face and outside edge of the hub of the rotor (the part the studs go through). Apply heat in a circle (not in one spot) and eventually you will hear a "pop" from the metal expanding. Then the rotor will come off with gentle hits from the hammer or even by hand. It doesn't take much heat so don't go crazy with a welding torch or get anything red hot. If you do that you could damage the wheel bearing.

Another very effective option is a gear puller that's large enough to fit around the rotor. Those work great because they put substantial, even pressure on the rotor. Hammers aren't effective because the short burst of pressure from the hammer blow isn't enough, and much of that energy is dissipated from movement in the steering knuckle and bushings. If you use a gear puller, ALL of the energy goes into pulling the rotor off.

I live in the rust-belt so I deal with this all the time, unfortunately. And I've found these methods very effective.

 

Got the other rear done guys! This rotor was just as bad as the first. Test drive was fine too. As always thanks for the help. Gotta do the fronts soon, but I don’t think they’re as bad, so I’ll wear em down some more. Thanks again everybody

 

Thats great!
Don’t let the front pads get as worn down as the rears.

 

You got this! Just saved yourself hundreds in labor cost. Good job, and props to you for sticking in there even when it seemed like it was all going to shit. Good on you for not giving up!!

 

Just ready the whole thread. Way to stick with it.

Consider bedding Advics pads per their 30-30-30 instructions.

And per @shifty` fronts look like this when done with squeelers outward and upward.

 

Resurrecting this thread…Ok so I’m gonna be doing the front brakes at latest by the weekend, only thing I’m stuck on is the cotter pins for the sliding pins for the front calipers. What is the part no.? Stupid question, but I cannot find it in diagrams, and I wanna have all the parts ready so I don’t have to borrow my brothers car to get extras. Thanks in advance

 

47749-35040, quantity of 4

 

I remember last time I did this and I live in rust belt (I guess? SE PA out side of Philly) and I do not drive a lot (Still less than 90k miles after 18 years) so by the time I had to do the brake was like when the car was like 15 yrs old. That pin was STUCK IN and mushroomed due to rust. I was banging on it to get it off for almost 2 hours to get it off - finally got it off - but it was PAIN. Ugh. I used generous amount of anti-seize on the pin to make sure that it does not get stuck next time - in another 5 yrs I guess.

In all the videos that I see of Tundra brakes, I look back at my ordeal whenever someone just SLIDES those pins out.

 

If you bought the OEM Advics pad replacement kit, they give you all new replacements for those!

The kit comes with:

• Replacement slide fasteners
• Replacement springs
• (4) New pads, with shims already glued in
• Packet of brake grease to apply to the rear of the pads

For the people 2003+ with 13WL calipers, Avics kit is part number

$64 AD0976 Front Brake Pad

AD0976. Kit comes with the following, note the hardware, and shims already glued to the pads ... you didn't buy something else, did you?:

Close up on the hardware included:

​

 

Per first post, pads came from dealer. So no hardware included.

 

Bummer

On these multi-pagers, I sometimes miss the backstory. But peeling back, I see I recommended Advics (as it's the OEM supplier, and doesn't require any extra effort, of shims/gluing stuff comes with replacement everything, etc.) in a big long post outlining it all, reply #8.

Can lead a horse to water, I guess ...

 

I think the pads and rotors had already been purchased when he started the thread.

My experience with 1st Gen brake pads has been the dealer OE pads (04465-35290) are hard to beat. They cost more when you factor in new shims and hardware as needed, but I'm not going to criticize the OP for his choice.

The Advics aftermarket pads are good, but they aren't the same as the dealer OE pads. I believe the friction material is the same as the dealer "MVP" value pads. The friction material doesn't have as much cold bite, and the shims are not as robust (single shim, rather than double). May not be a big deal, but those are my observations. I do recommend Advics pads to people with Toyotas if I'm the one doing the brake job as they are the best deal and very reliable quality. Advics aftermarket pads generally fit correctly and are not noisy, so come backs are non-existent. I recently installed an

$64 AD0976 Front Brake Pad

AD0976 set on a buddy's Tundra, so I'm not hating on them.

 

I replaced the OEM pins 6 years ago with 316SS clevis and cotter pins from McMaster-Carr. They still look new. The OEM pins were always rusting.
Part numbers 92401A844 and 98355A070. Unfortunately you have to buy 50 cotter pins so you will have 10 lifetimes of them.
Top is OEM. Clevis is a little longer but is fine.





This is what they looked like a few months ago when I replaced the brakes.





I wiped them off and they were fine.