General Supercharger Thread

My understanding as well.

Serviced by Toyota… the story just got more interesting…

 

Initial thoughts on this are, and I'm guessing, that zeroing out VVT Exhaust Cam Spark Base and Exhaust Cam Spark HO would be to serve as a troubleshooting measure?

In @snivilous's coaching me on timing retard, he shared with me to basically set Base Spark and High Octane Spark tables the same, and then to set Low Octane Spark to -5 degrees less than the two others. That, and repeated suggestions on not trying to micromanage Knock Feedback as I was prone to do, my timing logs have been very satisfactory.

This only time that I was having misfire issues was when I was trying to run those sets of FiveO 750cc injectors. With the ProSpeed injectors that Snivilous sent me, misfires have been resolved.

 

I've been running well except I may need to ditch the five O 750cc injectors. I have been dealing with extended starts. I may grab the turbokits 880cc injectors but they are higher $$$. May try prospeed...

 

Yea, have it setup more like a traditional timing table where everything points to the same timing (or no modifiers in the case of exhaust cam spark).

Which is more or less what setting Base/HO to the same values does I think, but that just went one step further and is what I've seen Prospeed do where the cam spark modifiers are set to 0, which I normally don't do.

 

Mine has been really good recently too. It looks like my next restriction might be that in my logs, I'm getting pretty close to maxing out the Airflow/MAF Voltage. I've been trying to pay attention to the 4/5 shifts, and I haven't noticed any hard ones, happy about that. Forward to reverse can be a little aggressive on occasion, but doesn't seem to be as bad as before. I'm certainly attempting to follow the chat about line pressures and stuff.

That sounds like what I was guessing you might have been trying to do, keeping it simple.

 

Of all the blown transmissions lately, who's pulley'd and running higher HP? Maybe it's simply just more power than the ol ab60 can physically handle, regardless of what others claim? Maybe there's more logic to the ~550hp output of most kits than we realize? Just thinking out loud. Sorry to hear about the trans issues guys.

 

Well my use case is unique since I’m hard on it in the dirt and of course nothing oem will survive. This isn’t unexpected. You wanna play you gotta pay.

 

For sure! Big tires and dirt are unforgiving. Especially if running stock diff gears

 

Them's fightin' werds!

 

Hopefully regearing helps take some load off the transmission. 4.30s to 5.29s should be a 23% reduction in stress and 23% more torque over 4.30 gears if you were to just compare them as a ratio to each other (5.29/4.30=1.23). Not sure if it’s really that simple, but it makes sense to me this way.

 

I hope that's true... It was one of my main excuses, I mean reasons, for getting 5.29s

 

If you have any other big purchases you would like to justify I’m sure I can come up with some other phony calculations for you. Still working on one that would make buying a 2nd truck and a muscle car appear financially responsible. This one might be for real though, AI said it was correct.

 

I appreciate the offer, but I dont seem to have any trouble coming up with excuses to spend money.

 

I have plans to do the full valve body upgrade through IPT , finish doing the swap on the bigger fuel pump, smaller pulley, bigger Injectors, and the upgraded FPR. Maybe even swap over to a green belt. Excited to see how much more I'll actually pick up in HP and torque. Another 3-4 pounds of boost would be pretty nice, I feel like my truck needs little bit more power on the low end! Even with 5.29s it still feels little sluggish, around 35-40 is when it goes into Nascar mode..

 

Another reason I am going 5.29. I'll only be running 35's but to lessen the load is most beneficial!

 

Having towed my empty trailer back to storage with Jesse's stock 2016 Pro, I forgot how much lighter everything feels with the 5.29s. I don't know that I've ever seen anyone who has regeared say they felt it was a waste or wish they hadn't done it. Forced Induction + gearing is like a second cup of icing on a batch of cinnamon rolls. Really can't wait for you guys to report back after it's done.

 

Those with long tubes where’d you mount the wideband bung. Typically in a primary I’d guess at about the same distance we have them now’s

 

You'll have some added efficiency loss most likely since the pinion has to contact more teeth to move the truck the same distance, but that'd be about it.

My original transmission failed with stock gears, maybe it's a sign!

 

After the collector, I would not do a primary. You'll get an average reading then instead of basing everything off one cylinders performance. @armyoffoo has played with positioning a lot.

 

Makes sense after rethinking it. Lol

 

Called the local dealer. Factory oem reman transmission in stock arrives this week randomly. So plans to snag that up, maybe do the valvebody mod, and get that coolant brick off the side of the transmission. I’ve got that part number somewhere lol

 

Unless someone has that part number handy lol

 

What do they want for the reman trans?

 

$3600

 

that with TC?

 

Yes

 

not terrible. thats close to what used ones on carpart are going for

 

agree. not bad at all.
so you're looking at 3600 plus VB upgrade (another, 1k or so, maybe?) plus misc.
approx 5k once done.

 

That's an amazing price!

 

I had planned on asking this after my PSB-1 arrived, but since you guys brought it up, where's the best place for the wideband bung with factory manifolds? Same thing.....after the collector?

Anyone have a picture of the best spot, so i can show a shop where to install it?