2022+ Tundra Battery Swap

Walmart offers a 94r H7 AGM Battery with a 4 year warranty for $179 and they install for free...the great thing about them is near zero warranty hassles...less than 4 years since purchase? Here's your new battery. 800 CCA 140 min reserve capacity. I have 2 of these in service right now and they have been flawless performers.

 

this is at 64mph on a 55 mph back road. The voltage increases during deceleration, braking, and idle.

 

Going 65 or so. My guess it depends if the battery needs charge or not.

I just picked up a Group 27F x2 and plan to modify the battery strap to fit the extra height. It has 92ah and 190 minutes of reserve.

 

Much ado about nothing.
Had AGM X2 Power batteries in a 2015 Ford Expedition, 2012 Highlander and currently in a 2015 Suburban and 2014 Tundra.
No diodes, no charging issues, no premature battery failures.

All the internet had me worried at first but My emails with the X2 power folks said no issues and no diode needed on modern alternators.

 

The alternator allows the voltage to get lower than some older cars with a constant output as a function of rpm. When coasting or engine braking the voltage goes to 14+ volts. Under medium throttle it’s usually just a tick under 13v. It’s supposed to help exercise the battery and save a little due to efficiency losses under normal use. Similar to how an electric car uses engine braking to charge the battery, but to a much smaller extent.

 

Same experience for me,My 2019 Mustang has had an AGM battery for about 3 years now. It’s been flawless, with an audio system hooked up to a t as well.

 

@PapaDave418 Though from what remember running an AGM in my previous truck you’ll shorten its lifespan considerably by letting it run repeatedly down to <50% charge. So in real world application that “80 ah” AGM battery gets you about 40 ah when camped/parked, whereas lithium isn’t harmed by repeated discharges to near zero. Food for thought for those who like to get off grid for multi-day/week adventures.

 

Standard AGM yes.
The X2 power is a dual purpose battery both a cranking and deep cycle battery.
It is meant to be nearly discharged frequently without consequence.

 

That’s a game changer. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Yeah 92AH isn’t 92 but 50% of, that’s why 190 minutes reserve capacity helps me a little more. If the battery is plugged into a draw of 25 amps it will last for 190 minutes (3 hrs 10 mins) till it reaches 10.5v, or flat. 25A discharge is the standardized rate of measurement to judge reserve capacity by manufacturers.

So if you have a 1 amp draw it will take roughly 75 hours to discharge my 92AH battery. My Dometic fridge uses @1.3A an hour if it’s running (depending on outside temps), my heater 1.3A or so when it turns on and off through the night, and I don’t usually sit in one spot more than a day or two. So it’s a good solution for me. Lithium will get you more power for sure but finding a cranking battery with high reserve gets $$$$

 

I installed the X2 27F AGM, fits nicely with an easy mod. Just reversed and persuaded the center strap a little
It’s a little taller at 8.75” vs stock 7.4” and 92AH instead of the stock 75AH

Simple write up
https://www.tundras.com/threads/off-road-build-with-diy-and-production-mods-on-37%E2%80%99s.105476/page-8#post-3488691

 

whats wrong with the oem battery ? why spend more money? peace of mind?

 

For me off grid camping running a fridge, lights, and heater. 22% more reserve and AGM’s bounce back better than flooded acid batteries

 

Longevity. AGM batteries last forever. I traded my last Ram with the original 8 year old Mopar AGM still under the hood doing it's job. Most OEM non AGM batteries I have had fail at 3 years on the dot

 

It has a guage. LOL (would be good to have some actual numbers on it) My truck idles at about 14v but drops to around 12.5v when driving.
An advantage to the SR5 gauges is that they are analog and are easier to read than the digital versions.

 

I’ve had corrosion issues and a little leakage from an acid battery in my 2018 Tacoma I had that was a pain. I would rather swap and not have to worry about that making a mess down the road.

 

I noticed the same thing, voltage actually increases off the throttle, deceleration, etc. It's kind of opposite of the old school where you would see a voltage dip at idle and deceleration then an increase as the RPM's increase. I'm inclined to think that the alternator has a built in clutch on the pulley. VW has had this for years. It's designed to supply power on demand which reduces the load on the engine when power is not needed vs a constant output of power regardless of load needed. It's another way to gain any increment of mpg for fuel economy.

 

Looks good, thanks for posting the results.

 

Did you have to put a diode in for charging?

 

Curious if you or anyone on here knows if the hybrid owners would benefit from an upgraded battery ? Since the battery is next to hybrid, in the rear cab ...really don't want leaking acid and corrosion. Thanks.

 

that's the hybrid battery, starting battery is under the hood near the firewall passenger side

 

Actually, for us Hybrid owners, both batteries are under that back seat, where your start battery is, we (hybrid) have an Inverter.

 

oh wow that's new to me...that probably helps weight distribution...duh obviously noob non-hybrid owner here...I'd def go AGM when the starting battery dies either way

 

Good little video form The Car Care Nut guy here in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/hybrid-unit-leak.137728/#post-3484683

 

A gel cell (Optima) or AGM battery (Odyssey) are definitely an upgrade in terms of spill and leak proof. If you're running additional accessories, lights, stereo, inverters, etc would definitely be a plus. If you are leaving stock as is, the only benefits would be longer battery lifespan and no worry or acid leaking or spilling.

 

Nope that was more of a 4Runner and tacoma thing I think. My non-hybrid alternator pumps out up to 14.5v

 

Sweet thanks

 

Your wiring triggers me, just a bit lol. I was told to stay away from X2 as they’ve been historically problematic with respect to heat and longevity. No clue of any validation to that but a quick search while I was at the shop showed a lot of hits so opted for an Odyssey battery personally which was similarly priced.

 

Haha what’s not shown are my BlueSea circuit breakers which look nice but yes over time a project here and there has added a few wires!

 

Is the OEM battery flooded or EFB?

Anyone know if it's the exact same battery for the hybrid that's installed from the factory?