How do these fluids look to you?

04’ Tundra. Seller says timing belt/water pump were replaced about 40k miles ago. Says the coolant is not rust colored, it’s pink

Transmission fluid looks alright to me but owner is unsure of when it was last changed and he’s owned it for about 40k miles / 5 years so I’d replace it just because if I bought the truck

 

I mean, it's hard to get a read, but the fluid looks like typical trans fluid, still ruby red, not garnet or burnt. Coolant, for how little it costs to get ~3 jugs of pre-mixed SLLC pink from Toyota, you may as well just drain and fill the coolant when you get it. Same with the transmission. Even with unknown history, there's little risk to doing a simple drain/fill on the transmissions used in our trucks. Just make sure you get the correct fluid. 00-02 uses ATF DexIII. 03-04 uses T-IV. 05-06 uses WS.

Your bigger concern is rust, regardless where you live, unless you're 100% positive the truck has never lived in or driven somewhere with salt. Most of the pre-purchase info you need is in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Thanks for the info! I was not aware of the transmission drain and fill being an issue on these trucks. I know flushing them can cause issues but just a pan drop, filter change and new fluid could cause issues?

everything else checks out with the truck including the rust (south west truck)

 

DO NOT change the filter. DO NOT drop the pan. It's unnecessary. It's a piece of metal mesh. Like many of Toyota's OEM filters for our truck (oil, air, fuel), they're only engineered to filter out huge stuff, which is exactly what Toyota wants. And to that point, stick with the OEM filters for the truck.

Tranny drain/fill isn't a problem on these trucks. There's just that whole urban legend about "never touch a transmission over 100k miles if you don't know the history", scary stories of detergent in new fluid knocking something loose that clogs a passenge and grenades the tranny, etc. etc. I've literally been hearing this for 30-40yrs or more now. There's no issue with drain/fill at all, but again, you DO NOT need to drop the pan or change the filter.

I think that's one of many maintenance topics covered in that community-built thread I linked.

PS - same deal with oil pan. DO NOT drop the oil pan unless mandatory. They rarely leak (more than I can say for the valve covers). It's also easy to strip threads on any of the pans related to these trucks. Including the drain plug on the transfer case.

 

Appreciate the info! I was not aware I could drain without dropping the pan on the transmission
Maybe less is more when it comes to the transmission if the color still looks red

 

thanks for the info! While I got you, you mind confirming my thoughts on the frame? Engine bay pics just in case something looks out of line. Haven’t seen the truck in person, it will require me to get a plane ticket

 

OP - add your truck details to your profile so we can be more specific

 

I haven’t quite done that because I haven’t purchased the truck yet, just vetting it out. It’s a 2004, 4x4 double cab,250k miles if that helps

 

Frame looks to be in good shape. Not seeing any of the typical delamination, bubbling, or flaking as so often seen. Looks like the inner CV axle boots are slinging grease. They might be OK, or they could be dry. Can't tell from the pictures. The rear shocks are mis-matched and the driver's side is shot. It's leaking. I would have to assume the fronts are in similar disarray. Not a big deal, suspension is pretty easy to replace if you have some mechanical knowledge and common sense. Couple of observation in the engine compartment: Brake fluid looks old and dirty. Will need to be changed. There is coolant spray and crystalization indications in the engine compartment. Could have been an old leak, could be currently leaking from somewhere. Would probably recommend a new radiator. Along those same lines, there is no indication of the timing belt and water pump being recently changed. Will be best to have those done, and replace the radiator at the same time. Looks like some of the ignition coils have been recently replaced on the passenger side. I'd be cautious of this. Why were they replaced? I do think it's in decent condition, but might need some love. What's the asking price?

 

appreciate the in depth response!

The Denso radiator looks to be only about $150 so may be good to just replace that since I wanted to replace the coolant.

Good catch on the crystallized coolant, not sure when/why that wouldn’t have happened if the radiator is still functioning

owner said the previous owner did the timing belt and water pump at 204k, about 40k miles ago (about 6 years ago). I was reading the thread referenced above and it sounds like I can do a simple check to see if it has been done?

when you say inner CV slinging grease, are you referencing the cam adjustment spots on each side of the frame (lower control arm bolt) that are greasing? I had thought those were areas that get greased with a grease zirt?

On the ignition coils, owner replaced the spark plugs, maybe that would explain the some new indignation coils?

Here’s another picture from the drivers side, any additional thoughts?


At this time I’m worked out a deal at $7500, in my area I think it would be worth a bit more which is why I’m willing to fly to get it. Clean title

 

You can use all of this to negotiate the price down. Use typical shop rates, so get quotes for the radiator, timing belt and water pump. If there's no "Aisin" sticker under the hood anywhere showing the TB replacement mileage and date, or if there is no shop paperwork, be wary. Just because he says doesn't mean that it's so. There are no grease zerks on the LCA cam adjusters. That is for sure a loose or broken CV boot. Again, use it to negotiate the price down. It could mean new CV axles, or it could be just new clamps and grease. It's ok if the PO replaced the ignition coils, but why only a few? Usually once one goes, all are ready to be replaced, and best practice would be to replace them all. And, only with Denso. I think at $7500 you're probably doing OK. Just know you're going to need to put some money into it, but overall it seems pretty solid. Always tough to gauge from afar.

 

Oh, and yes you can inspect the timing belt by pulling back the driver's side timing belt plastic cover. See if you can get them to do that and send you a picture.

 

$7.5k is definitely a fair shake for that truck. I'd potentially feel bad talking them down, or worry someone else would offer $100 more and screw me out of it.

RE: Radiator can still be functioning, but it looks like the radiator cap blew based on the height (and cutoffs) of the spatter/spray patterns.. Radiator needs replacement, the top cap is miscolored/faded, a sure sign of age.

That brake fluid is dirty as shit and needs to be fully flushed.

Timing belt check: 10mm, loosen whichever cam cover is easier to get to and pull it back, inspect the belt for cracks and presence of writing. Just know, this only tells a fraction of the story, but you can look for gross issues. Any signs of cracking or extreme shininess/brownness is bad news. You must be aware: Toyota's parrt life numbers are SPECIFICALLY tied to their OEM parts. If they used an aftermarket kit instead of buying the Aisin brand parts - either from a reputable outlet (i.e. not fleaBay or scAmazon), or buying Aisin brand direct from Toyota - you're liable to only get 50k miles out of the aftremarket belt. Same story for lower ball joints. OEM will last 100k-125k miles easy. You're lucky to get 10k-12k miles out of aftermarket (if that).

 

Thanks for the info!
I found this video for inspecting the belt, would access to the other cam cover be easier than messing with the intake tube?
https://youtu.be/TzbP885HuXY?si=cB-wPjDD-SU-vAtO

Ball joints said to have been replaced but something I’d consider replacing again once I got home just as CYA. But I have a pretty long 450 mile drive. Any good way to check them without getting the front tires up in the air?

 

Not really. It’s easiest to take the OEM bottle jack to jack LCA until wheel is 1” off ground. Wedge a pry bar under center of tire and lift up/down. Look for play at the ball.