General Supercharger Thread

You may have already posted this, but if you don't mind sharing, where do you think the trans upgrade will land you (cost wise) once everything is in an accounted for???

Also, saw the Level 10 on the signature line.... you're gonna need to add a few more descriptives to that line for those not in this thread wondering WTF else this forum is going to have them needing

 

$7k for the build of the trans itself not sure what they’re charging in labor for the install etc

 

it’s 5 or 6 for the build. Using my transmission gets rid of the core cost. I haven’t paid anything yet so can’t say for sure what the cost is. I know the cost to have them do all the work (remove and re install) is $700 and that’s more than reasonable IMO.

haha anyone that supercharges their truck gets read up pretty quick in this thread for all the ‘needs and wants’

 

Yeah, $700 for the R&R is nothing.... definitely fair price

 

What does a new OEM transmission cost these days from Toyota. Are they even still available new?

 

I think they’re like 4k irrc but don’t quote me.

 

Several dealers show it NLA, this one has it for 2984 plus 1k core.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-...meT0yMDE1JnQ9bGltaXRlZCZlPTUtN2wtdjgtZmxleA==

 

I was close! $16 off

 

The -84 suffix indicates reman. Aisin does it’s own remanufacturing.

There appears to be new AB60F units available for foreign market Land Cruisers w/ the 5.7. We will have to check compatibility. $4571.14 + the ride, which has unfortunately has become quite expensive within the last several years. I just brought a LC JF2A transfer case in from Japan, FedEx flew it in for a shipping cost of $600… it wasn’t long ago it was 1/2 that. The trans is twice the weight… so?

 

Oh wow. So they have cores on hand to build and send out yours when its time? That's a plus!

 

So, maybe I spoke too soon about the spacers putting my intake in a better spot...the top is getting sawed through by the ProSpeed box cover, should be an easy fix, I just need to modify the box cover. But what I really need is to put on that other snout and make a new intake. It was hard to get a picture, but there's a pretty good chunk taken out of it, probably half the thickness of the tube wall.

 

ow

Speaking of glitches, my catch can has been getting progressively more "smokey" In N Out opened 2 blocks from my house Thursday, I sat in the drive through for 45!!! MINUTES & had smoke billowing from under the truck (where the filter somehow sent the smoke).

Any idea on mitigating that?

 

Modded my lid awhile go since it does this with the outstanding design of Prospeed lol

 

Maybe a new PCV valve would help, generally more smoke means more blow-by so could be a number of things, valve seals, valve seats...rings

 

Yeah, since the kids are out of school next week, I might just get the new snout installed and start on the intake...I plan to put the element (or most of it) into the inner fender a la ViktorG-style, so I'll be ditching the hot box.

 

That escalated quickly.

I'll start with the valve (which is about 18 months old.

 

The Pro speed catch can is vented to the atmosphere where most are a sealed unit. I believe the new Pro speed catch system recirculates all gases.

 

This is the motor of one of 25 of the 70/SS that are being hand made by TransAm WorldWide. This care showed up at a friend's dealer to show off. His is #7 and this one is 815 to the rear wheels.
cant get the video to load but this one was green convertible with two brown/gold stripes
Somewhat like the 70s Malibu, the photo is a stock photo off the site, his was like the Green SS in the pictures

 

Yeah, unfortunately, smoke is usually a bad sign...steam from condensation is a different thing, but that usually burns off once the engine gets up to temp. Maybe the filter is saturated and dripping onto something? Still wouldn't be good to be saturated either though.

 

I got it from Rey, not sure which can it is.

Here's what it's doing.

https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/1032719480

 

Steam it did that in the winter here

 

It's 60 degrees at night right now.

 

Yeah, I think you're fine, just like you exhaling "smoke" when it's cold enough it's just warm air in a cold environment, nothing to worry about.

 

Thanks!

 

Sorry for the concern, when you said billowing I pictured Uncle Buck's ride...my bad.

 

With a car behind me with its lights on in the line, it seemed billowy lol

I don't get how it exits under the truck

 

I did some more digging just because, also because I had 2 VB parts that were showing wear already @47k miles and that was with 3 drain and fills with WS. So, I looked into viscosity of WS, Aisin, Max and Idemitsu. Seems Idemitsu is the closet to OEM WS but its also thinner when cold and when hot. MaxLife is a tad bit thicker and Aisin being a lot thicker. Since I was already showing wear at 47k, I think a thicker oil will benefit the VB for better lubrication. I was thinking of going Idemitsu and trying it out later but being thinner than WS, I think i will stay away. And yes there are other things that come into play but viscosity is very important considering lots of people switch over to a thicker engine oil and see benefits right away.

WS 23cst @40C / 5.45cst @100C
Aisin 34.88cst @40C / 7.332cst @100C
MaxLife 28cs t@40 / 5.9cst @ 100c
Idemitsu 22.8cst@40c / 5.3cst @ 100c

Anyways back to SC stuff. I did a data log today and sent it off to snivilous for a retune. I am currently running around 9.2-9.5 AFR and cant believe that my DW 650 injs are close to maxed out at 88%@5600 and 91%@6000. I know that the IDC will come down when retuned but wow, 9's AFR=91%IDC. That has me thinking when I go down just 1 size pulley, how close to max will the injs be again? I also did a quick 0-60 and 1/4 log on my OBD Link MX+. 0-60 was 5.73 and 1/4 was 14.42. This is from idle and baby it off the line to not spin. As for the accuracy if the MX, no idea.

 

My transmission was probably already toast when I switched to Maxlife on my drain and fill.
You should be able to lean out those afr's and changed some maf setting to get a bit more. I ran the 535cc's at 100% plus for about 6 months.

 

Did you boost reference your fuel pressure regulator? That would help. Also changing out the regulator to a higher pressure one like the DW one and boost referencing it would be even better.

 

Yeah, I think all oils are over thought but after seeing the viscosity numbers, at least from seeing my parts wearing out at only 47k, either 2 things, Aisin used crap materials in the VB or WS is too thin to protect metal to metal contact. Definitely not doing Idemitsu since it's thinner than WS.
Anyways I had the 535 and was as about 105% for a few months till I couldn't anymore and bought the DW FP and DW 650 injectors. I am just waiting to get the retune, but at least I am not at 105% and running rich instead of close to lean like before. I am also boost referenced. Originally when I installed the SC, I wasn't and I was like at 110% IDC. Changing to boost reference helped but was still over.
I have also been running Mobil 1 5W-40 for 2 oil changes. I just did the 2nd oil change yesterday and took a sample to send it off. I am curious how the engine and oil are doing. Funny thing about 40 oils, is that from what I have seen, all the 40 oils I come across are labeled European Formula. Interesting enough, Mobil1 0w-20 has a higher API rating than 0w-30 or 40. It's also harder to find 40 oils. Damn EPA and their MPG crap.