What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Might even be a K10

 

Do you have a reason to think the existing shackles/hangers are bad, or bushings are shot?

And shit, I guess the 5160 isn't setup like a lot of other shocks. Hold on, I'll find a pic.

​

 

Tundra just ate it's second alternator in a month. Only issue I have is constantly having to brush corrosion off the battery terminal. Both times the voltage regulator went out and it started over charging.

This time was a little different as I got an abs light and the speedometer started going crazy and the radio cut out.

 

First, a cable with internal corrosion will cause you to eat alternators.

Second, are you doing nothing to avoid corrosion on your terminals? They make felt disks that help curtail gases from leaking around the posts, and dielectric grease for the terminals. Once you get corrosion inside the cables, you're asking for electrical nightmares.

Third, I'd test for voltage drop between alt and battery, verify the cables, or peel back and re-terminate the cable on the battery side, where the corrosion is likely living. You may have corrosion on the smaller cable that jumps from the battery into the fuse box next to the battery.

 

I need to replace the negative battery cable, I'm going to have to make a new one and bypass the original wiring. If I had known it would be a problem I would have done it when the wiring was off the engine when I did the cooling system.

I've been trying to scrub the corrosion off the cable terminal because the battery is new but it's completely compromised at this point. Just dont have time to do anything major until January.

 

Sometimes battery cases develop cracks where the post comes out. That's why you get acid all over the post. Remember this next time you think about carrying a battery by the posts. They even make special tools to carry batteries by the posts. Use them if you like acid leaks, or even worse, a loose connection between the post and the plates.

 

DK where did you get that mount or did you fabricate yourself?
That looks great.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2181#post-3748119

 

At least curb the issues.

$4 NOCO E404 12.25 Oz Battery Terminal Cleaner Spray and Corrosion Cleaner with Acid Detector

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MGTNX0/

And

$6 12 Pieces Battery Terminal Anti Corrosion Washers Fiber Battery Terminal Protector(Green, Red)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TG8WDFY

And

$8 Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 0.33 oz. Tube, Silver

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2/

You don't need to buy on scAmazon, you can get them locally.

Clean properly with NOCO.
I like to apply dielectric to the base of the washer and install.
Apply dielectric grease to your post.
Install the terminal, apply dielectric to the terminal.

You will not see corrosion at the post again any time soon, unless your battery is somehow defective.

 

Ok good to know, You had me really worried there for a second haha. I cant see the bushings at all, most of the other bushings/rubber was cracked on the front suspension but I don't know anything other than the shackle itself is in good shape. is it a huge pain to press new shackle bushings in? the shackle bushings are significantly cheaper than the whole thing, but ATS sells ones with a grease zerk and you know how I love zerks.

 

Realized I missed the old girl turning 180k for an almost 25 year old truck I gotta say this is the best truck I’ve ever owned.

 

i lost 2.5 mpg with the tall cap. No other changes.

 

Ask @Kimosabe, he just did the job.

 

Yeah I do think its always gonna be a personal call on what you like. As I've looked at different trucks, I realize I really like the look more of a wheel that is dead flush with the fender or just a little inset. I don't mind a little poke, but I don't like a lot of poke. That's kind of what draws me to the 255s. Though the 275 really kind of fit that bill too.

Thanks for sending that. Those wheels are so great. I hope the budget will let me get those.

No those are great shots! Good action shots. the angled ones give you a better idea of how the skinny 255s look.

Yeah I've only found Es. Not a ton of options in 255/80/17. I'd probably end up with open country AT3s or Falken Wildpeaks. I'm hoping the backspacing with the TRD wheels, the 8/6 bilsteins, and the UCAs can clear me. Good to know about the bulkiness of the tread though

 

You could always run a 1.25" wheel spacer with the 255's. I have 255/75r17's on my 4runner and wasn't very happy with the look until i added spacers, which brought them just outside the fenders. I saved these pictures a while ago from somebody's thread running 255/80r17 Cooper's, I just can't remember who. I believe he was running wheel spacers in these pictures too but don't quote me on that.

 

Here's a good thread with some more pictures of that size

 

1.25" or 1.5" are a must. It flushes it up perfect.

 

Do the Open Country. I’ll never do Wildpeaks again. Too f’n noisy. Wish I read other people’s feedback ahead of time. I’ve got some used 285 Wildpeaks for sale in the wheel/tire marketplace on here

 

Here's a look at what I'm dealing with. New battery 06/23, new tie down (previous rusted away). It's only the negative side and you can see it starting to form between the battery and tie down.

The metal battery platform is pretty bad though, it's corroded pretty bad and could be contributing. I'd like to replace it at some point.

Or my battery is seeping out at the caps.

 

Do you think that the reason the 5160 doesn't have an allen head is because the reservoir is on the top side? And as a result the top part can't spin, unlike a 5100 or 4600? Just thinkin out loud here.

 

What coilovers are those? Do you like em?

 

I run 255/85R16 E load Toyo M/T, I think they’re great but I wanted more of an All terrain tire for winter. They’re about 33.4”x10.2”. The AT4w makes a 255/85r16 in C load that you should look into. Maybe they have 255/80r17 in C also. Tundra wheels had a several stock 16” varieties and they are 7” wide instead of 7.5 so you hold a bead better if you air down. No spacers or trimming, slight frame rub at full lock but I think I just need to go back and adjust my SPC uppers to get rid of it.

 

I heard the AT4W was designed to improve on the AT3W by cutting down on noise and increase durability. Someone with AT4Ws chime in.

I also love Open country AT3s and run them on my lifted Golf. Great winter traction, you won’t regret them I think.

 

Felts will curb that.

 

The AT3s weren't loud on my Tacoma. For the 200 or so miles I had them, I don't remember noticing the AT4s being loud on the Tundra. And they replaced a cheap set of strictly highway tread tires. But these things are subjective...

Quite a few friends have Wildpeaks and I've never heard anyone complain that they're noisy, but I believe 'shifty when he says his were.

 

His were also used. Probably came off of a vehicle with worn out suspension that already started changing the tread blocks

 

To your point it’s relative. I went from regular tires to the Mickeys, new, and noticed the added noise from 25-45(ish). Then from the new Mickeys to 50% used Wildpeak AT3W. I liked they were softer on bumps but clearly a shedload more wahwahwah hum/whine from 25-60, then quiet above 60. I got accustomed to it. Then went back to the new Mickeys and it was, like, I can hear myself thinking while driving again. Profound silence, relatively. A hair noisier above 65, but significantly quieter everywhere else.

I dunno.

 

Who knows. Not sure if my AT4Ws in XL are worth comparing to LTs..much shallower tread depth. Almost forgot AT4Ws are what I currently have on . It was AT4Ws in 265 75 16 LRE that I only had for a couple hundred miles. I don't notice noise with the current ones either. Would need to try another tire probably for comparison. It's also still a fairly new truck to me with a lot of recent front end work so I'm still calibrating what's "normal".

 

I’ll do some spacers if I need to - I guess the good thing is that you can always add them later easily. Not like if you forget to do you CV boots and then they tear 100 miles after you install the lift.

And to all of the above regarding the tires - I like the wildpeak look more than the open country, but I feel like the open country’s get more positive feedback. With the skinnier tires - ironically I don’t need any winter traction since I live in Texas. I have an average of 2 days of winter precipitation, so that’s not really on my radar. I do however need wet traction.

Have any of y’all ever tried to return a set of tires? I’m thinking what if they mount them and I just hate em - can I just say “ never mind, take those off. Order these for me instead and I’ll be back in a week for you to mount the other ones”.

I am entirely overthinking this. But what are enthusiast forums for, amiright?

 

Tires are usually a you mount em, you own em kinda deal