Upgrade stock speakers

Yeah unfortunately space behind the rear seat is extremely limited making shallow subs the only real option. I've got a JL 8w7 in a center console extension box I made but eventually plan to switch to one or two 10tw3's Depending how often you have people in the back seats, one of those 12w3v3's would definitely fit in a normal size cube box on the floor behind the passenger or driver seat. Depending on people's budgets I'd always steer them towards a 5 channel that way you have future room for expansion already in place, but it's also certainly not hard to add a power splitter and a mono amp later on either, or a powered sub like I mentioned. Lots of options/directions you can go but I'm always a proponent of adding a sub to round out the sound spectrum

 

Those are super nice, your top mount depth is the issue. Need much shallower speaker for a 12. I just bought the Skar dual 10” box and will order Fosgate subs and amp soon.

Snert: good info there thank you. Have some options when I tackle the mids and highs.

 

thanks for all the help. Wow that was truly helpful. I think I’m going to get the 5 channel so I can add a small sub later as you mentioned. Black Friday here I come.

 

I seem to understand the entire concept here with the amp/amp power, harnesses etc. however what I don’t get is the harness adapter (input/output) part. Each of the + - outputs are supposed to go to the amp on the output side to the speakers(one per channel). Where do the bare wire input signals go to?

 

On some amps there will be 2 different ways for signal input, RCA's or sometimes you'll see a proprietary wire harness/plug for the amp/manufacturer. Most common way for signal input everyone knows about are RCA cables. RCA cables are just a + and - wire in one wire/connector. To use that Kicker 5 channel as an example, you can see it only has RCA inputs. Back in the day some amps would only accept "low level" or "low voltage" inputs, which is what RCA cables usually are, however RCA cables are just cables and they can be "low" or "high" voltage, i.e. say 1 volt for low voltage or 10 volts for high voltage. Again using the Kicker 5 channel as an example, if you look under the specs you'll see (and most amps nowadays fortunately) it can accept low or high level inputs:

All that said, what you would do in this case, is buy 2 pairs of speaker wire to RCA adapters, which look like this:

As an example/like I mentioned earlier, each RCA plug has two wires, one + and one -. From your 10 and 12 pin integration plugs, you'd match up your inputs, so for channels 1 and 2 of input you'd find your wires on your harness for front left + and -, and front right + and -, and then solder or crimp those bare wire ends to the bare wire ends on the RCA plugs like this:

Rinse and repeat for the rear channels, and then you have 4 RCA plugs to use for input into the amp. Like I mentioned before some amps will have their own wire harness for "high level" or "speaker level input", in which case you'd have a little plug that goes into the amp and has it's own bare wire ends, and then you'd match up/connect those to the bare wire inputs on the integration harnesses.

For your outputs on any amp, you'd just insert the bare wires into their respective outputs on the amp terminals.

 

That is what I have. I have not upgraded the rear speakers because I rarely have passengers. I adjusted the fader to push more power to the front.

 

you are literally a a god send haha. You made this whole process so easy and understandable. Thanks so much for the time you have taken to explain and draw up diagrams. I will order the rca cables as well and get this thing rolling! I am going to go with the kicker 5 channel as you suggested and also the kicker 10”.

 

No problem at all! There's a lot to digest when you start looking into car audio and this is just the tip of the ice berg lol, there's a whole nother level of dsp tuning etc. that I'm not knowledgeable about whatsoever. Kicker makes solid products imo. There are definitely other options of 5 channels too depending on your budget, but that 5 channel I linked would be solid for your speakers, and solid for adding a modest sub or two. Feel free to drop a line with any other questions/specifics about the install process!

 

I’ll let you know how it sounds once it’s all done by next week. Now I gotta make my own mounting bracket because I refuse to pay $110 for the one from taco. Haha

 

Yeah I get that, heck out this one from the guys at Sounds Good Stereo: https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...el/Tundra/BodyStyle/Crew-Max/Submodel/Non-JBL

It’s about half the cost just make sure you get the passenger side, and although their website says it’s for 2014-2019 I’m pretty sure it would work for 2020 and 2021 as well but wouldn’t hurt to ask them. They’re mainly F-150 guys but they’re super high level and revered in the car audio world as some of the best in the business for sure.

 

So I got everything mounted and the power wired for the amp. Going to do the speaker harness connections tomorrow morning. How do I get the sub/sub box behind the rear seats since they only fold up not down? Do I need to unbolt the seats?

 

Crewmax? They fold down

 

haha how?

 

So easy you can do it w/o breaking your nails...0:18

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMTFvbU39Dg

 

I have a 2020 crewmax. Seat backs don’t seem to come down like that at all.

 

That's only for 2022+, @AAA96 has a 2020. Yes you will need to unbolt and remove the rear seats. I don't remember the socket size off the top of my head but I wanna say it's like a 17mm, there's 8 total, 4 in each section of the 40/60 split. I'd see if the sub box will fit behind the single seat/rear passenger side first since that ones lighter/easier to remove. Just be careful in addition to the bolts there's a little nub/pin that is part of the seat frame that slides down into a hole in the seat track. As far as reinstalling, I think the torque spec is around 30-35 ft lbs

 

My bad