General Supercharger Thread

I'm sorry to hear about the transmission issues, folks. While I'm just entering the FI front, I'll snag a sample from the last half of this towing season and get it sent in with my next oil change. Mine was starting to occasionally slam into 5th, unloaded, light throttle and 1/2 quart of extra fluid nearly resolved it. My future tune has a ton of trans settings modified so it'll be good to see what stock trans, stock trans settings did under light boost and high load.

Keeping an eye on all of this and wishing these are just a few anomalies, not a trend.

 

Have a couple questions about upgrading fuel pump/injectors. Since I won't likely stick to a stock tune/mods etc..

Anyone have experience and or it is an issue with a stock Magnuson Supercharger-Magnuson Tune to run the DW 650's and associated fuel pump?

Unsure when I would move over to a new tune, so thinking it may be on the stock Magnuson tune for a bit. Let me know what you guys think as I'd rather get these upgrades done during installation.

 

If you are supplying more fuel, you WILL need an updated tune, no matter what...or run really rich and have fouling issues...

 

Yes do not upgrade fueling without being ready for a new tune

 

Understood, Magnuson's tune will not accommodate and or adjust for larger injectors/fuel pump other than what's in the kit provided.

I'll plan for injectors/fp in the future with a tune on the ready. Thanks!

 

Yeah essentially you just want to match your blower and pulley size to the expected fuel capabilities.
You're stock kit, with components and stock (canned) tune will be set up so you can drive the truck. you can even leave it like that long term.
but if you want to change anything then you need a new tune. short of a CAI or cat-back, you're going to need a re tune... and that will be for the better in the long run anyway.

 

The fuel pump is fine to be upgraded whenever. I suggest doing the fuel pump immediately (you could even do it before installing the blower). Do not install the Magnuson pump and then pull it out afterwards (if you can afford a new pump right away).

In regards with the injectors, the Magnuson tune PROBABLY CAN accommodate for the 650s. If it can't, it will throw a rich code and just be chilling at the extremes of the fueling adjustment range. 650s are ~21% larger than the Magnuson 535s, and the fueling adjustment range is usually ~20% but some trucks seem willing to go higher. It's very possible the Magnuson tune can handle the larger injectors fine. Another trick you can play is increasing the throttle tube size (at the MAF) by the same amount as the injectors. The truck will think there's less air and command less fuel which will balance out.

That's not to say you shouldn't get a tune, but if we're putting all the cards on the table there are ways to work around not getting a tune and running the larger injectors if you have to for whatever reason. With that said, the injectors are pretty easy to swap out (unlike the fuel pump) so I don't really see a reason to run them without a tune (for an extended period, it's one thing to drive to the tuner after installing the injectors). Food for thought.

 

Ok, that was another question answered. Thanks for your input, I'll have the DW fuel pump installed during the SC install. Injectors will be at a later date once I get used to the extra power and recoup some savings.

 

About 11 years ago I swapped in 550cc injectors and the ecu accommodated them with the TRD SC tune. Which isn't much over. Did it when we thought the SC injectors were 485cc.

 

Rey did you still have a stock valve body in the truck?

 

Yessir

 

To those that have had their transmission go, how did you treat your transmission. I drive 6 miles total to and from work. My truck shifts at 2k or less it that time. City driving, is normal. When I do go on the highway, it's usually a normal drive with maybe the occasional rev to around 4-4.5 rpms. Very rarely does my truck see wot runs. I tow a 7k boat probably 10 times a year. And at 49k I have already changed my trans fluid 3 drain and fills and recently did a 3 qal drain when I did my VB upgrade. Used Valvoline the last time.

 

I'm curious about this as well.

My '08 has been dragging a 10k 5th wheel RV twice a year for 800 miles.

I pan drains and fills every other year. I'm not noticing it shift any different when it had 50k miles vs it's now 240k miles.

I don't know if I've ever hit 4k rpms, but I know I don't baby it when I need to get around a slow poke on a 2 lane state road.

The '21 will be getting a SCer in the next year or so.

These conversations are why I'm glued to this thread.

 

I think I posted the other day, but my drains/fills have been around 55k, 90k, 135k and then 175k. Not consistent but not neglected. I bought the truck at 45k miles and it was owned by a company which had done all recommended service work. It's towed most of it's life, between light duty 2k trailers, up to 7k boat for a few years and 10k boat here and there, with some 5k misc here and there for house/yard work. Commuted 35 miles each way for 5 years pre covid. Then family hauler and 3rd vehicle here and there. It's seen a mix of driving. Wife drives it soft, never in boost. I drive it moderate, but it gets worked here and there. Never did any transmission work on it... though now I understand that may have been a mistake. Would have done it earlier (pre SC) had I known.

Holy smokes, you've never hit 4k rpm's?
I wouldn't say I abuse my truck but I would say I hit 4k if I drive for more than 10 miles, which is most of my driving. Towing, I don't push it too hard with the SC knowing the transmission is the weak point. The truck probably saw the harshest driving during my tuning/logging phase with Sniv. Lots of full pulls ripping through to get everything right.

 

I said a don't know if I've hit 4k. The only time mash the skinny pedal getting around the slow pokes. I'm more worried about the on coming traffic, so not paying a lot of attention to the tach.

 

I agree with this. Tuning the truck actually pained me a little bit doing multiple WOT pulls. I enjoy using the trucks power from time to time and also testing it with the dragy, but I’m not a WOT every time I get in kind of person. 70k miles, supercharged since 47k and a good bit of towing. The VB is definitely on my agenda. I’m hoping to not kill the original trans. I could see holding it flat through 4th gear all the time taking a big toll. Usually the most I do is rip it through first and second, or if I’m rolling then 2nd through 3rd. By that time it’s already going way too fast. @koditten IMO if you’re not the kind of driver who ever goes WOT, even towing often I’d give the trans the same estimated lifespan as if the truck was NA. It’s all how you drive it.

 

I do hit the mid 4-5k rpm often. I also changed my shift point to get through 1-2-3 quickly. Changed/lowered TC lockup points and disabled flex lock all to reduce heat. Keep the atf pan with 1/2 to full quart after the trickle check. I originally removed my warming puck and thermostat but it kept it at 150-160 degrees. I installed a Derale thermostat that opens at 176 degrees and keeps my trans under 190 degrees. Just a few things im trying to keep the stock unit going.

 

So after it trickles out, you put the plug back in and then add another 1/2 to 1 at of oil? Interesting to hear the reason for this.

I forgot to add that I installed a Genuine cooling kit that I sourced the parts for exactly like the kit. I also run the t-stat pinned and I am usually always around 160-170 all the time.

 

Yeah, mixed reviews by people when I mention it as it deviates from Toyota specifications. When I was talking with IPT about things to alleviate p2757 and cooling issues it was brought up that the the atf pan can accommodate a quart extra without causing foaming or circulation issues.

 

so does everyone use a pump to fill or drain?
im trying to see if a can driveway change like an oil change or have to take it in

 

I use a cheap oil pump from the auto parts store. Like one of these...

 

Drain it from the drain plug. Remove the fill plug on the side of the trans. Run a hose from engine bay to side hole, attach a funnel to holes and fill. Very easy.

 

I guess I can see it helping with heat as now you have an extra quart. But I guess if you have a trans cooler then it's not needed.

 

This is also how I refill the transmission. I have a hose with rag bits stuffed in either end to keep from getting dusty or dirty that I only use for this procedure. The rag bits also keep fluid from dripping out when it is stored and when you are snaking down the side of the engine bay. Just pull the rag and make a 90 degree turn in to the fill port. I’d also recommend a hose clamp and/or second set of hands to hold the funnel on to the tubing when dumping fluid in to the funnel.

This has worked exceptionally well for me.

 

And you need a way to read the atf temp so you can check the level. scanner or obd2 app is easiest

 

The old style official Toyota fill tool which is an OTC 6492. It wasn’t exactly cheap when I bought it years ago, but it is a ridiculous amount of money these days.

 

I have the stock trans cooler too. Check level at proper temp.

 

nice i have one of those. maybe ill get a nee one just for this.
whats the fluid amount?

 

Same driving style.


I Drain & Fill every ~30k.

120k on truck.

approaching 100k on the S/C.

Trans runs the same as new - best I can tell.

I can't sense any slipping or rough/sloppy gear changes.

Last time I had it tuned ( ~1yr), Alex Peitz also dropped in a transmission tune(HPT)...I have no idea what that did, but nothing broke (yet).

It does really good at passing & hwy on-ramps. gear changes are perfect.

And - I still get damn decent mileage (17 avg).



FTR-
9+ PSI Harrop (77.5mm)
DW 650's
stock intake - wix filter
stock exhaust - TRD duals.

 

I have one of these...I use only for Trans fluid.

when I do Drain & Fills...I usually drain ~4qts...put back in 5qts.

level it out with the check valve trickle dance.

after the first time....it's just too easy not to do it.